Plasma Dash Motor Questions & some other q s

[t00l]

Ok, i ve been trying to read up on what the fastest motor is for the mini-z out of value and it seems to be the Tamiya Plasma Dash Motor. After reeding up i ve just purchased one and should be ariving soon. But I just want to get some things straight…

This motor is too powerfull for stock z so needs a turbo added in to not fry out the poor little thing. So…

1. This should be a 6×2 fet stack to cope with it, or a good turbo (what is the best turbo to use with these motors?) (or any special fets?)

2. It requires the connection wires added onto it to hook upto the z?

3. Does it require any special mods done to the stock motor mount or a special one?

4. The bushings dont need to be replaced by any different ones as they are fine?

5. How can i tell if i got a dud

6. Anything i missed.

THANKS HEAPS for any help or answers that you can give, ill post pictures up of my z some time when its finished in the future 🙂

my current setup is

mitz lancer evo 6 – custom XR8 “blue print” colour with tinted windows and some nice stickers 😀
x speed motor
pn racing batteries (1.25v 780mah)
pn racing ball bearings
yeah racing alu mags
gpm racing alu wheel nuts
pn racing toe in/out tire rod set

---

Coming soon

plasma dash motor
xxxxx turbo (what one is best for plasma??)
ball diff 1/16
carbon fiber h plates (anything better???, eg graphite or steel) (snapped stock last night):dead:
roll shock set
rear shock set
motor and battery heatsinks (goto love rice)

ok, thats bout it 🙂

t00l

[GT-ahh]

1. FETs are better than turbos….
2. yup solder on a wire…
3. nope stock mount shoud take it..
4. I heard u need to replace the brushes.. standard carbon ones should be fine..
5. If it doesnt work
6. if you really want speed. get a bb can for the plasma dash aswell..

[t00l]

Quote:

1. FETs are better than turbos….
2. yup solder on a wire…
3. nope stock mount shoud take it..
4. I heard u need to replace the brushes.. standard carbon ones should be fine..
5. If it doesnt work
6. if you really want speed. get a bb can for the plasma dash aswell..

1. so just get a 6×2 stack of fets, or is there a better setup?
2. easy work
3. great
4. other people say the bushings are fine and if not better than the stock mini z ones :S
5. i was kinda talking about the “dud” slower speed ones compared to the crazy ones, how can you tell the rpm of these?
6. these bb cans require me taking apart the plasma dash and replacing the body of it to kind of say. will this need to be re wound?
im kinda knew to this whole motor scene 😛

and are the carbon fiber h plates the best or graphite or steel, what have you guys found to be the best, im thinking the fiber are as they are light and strong, graphite i have been told snap pretty easy too and the steel would bend and snap over time right? (i spoze they all do but after a few falls or bad runs?)

also thanks for the fast reply gt-ahh, this place is alot better over other forums 😀

[VR-4]

well you need atleast 2X4 to run a plasma.or a good turbo beaing the gpm v2 or you can get 2 turbos and it will be like a 2X6 fet stack.

you can replace the bushing on the plasma to bearings “i did”

dont change the can on the plasma or it will suck i tryed it and the plasma has a set timeing or else it will suck. the duds you will know if you get 1 beocuse it will be as fast as a x speed

i like ch o and x plates.

the plasma das uses some of the best brushes i ever seen in a 130 size motor and you can only use the replacement brushes for it. so you dont need to replace them but if you buy a mech dash ultra dash hyper dash jet tuned ect you need some pn brushes.

[jamiekulhanek]

I’ve got a few of these on the way myself :approve:

[t00l]

Quote:

well you need atleast 2X4 to run a plasma.or a good turbo beaing the gpm v2 or you can get 2 turbos and it will be like a 2X6 fet stack.

you can replace the bushing on the plasma to bearings “i did”

dont change the can on the plasma or it will suck i tryed it and the plasma has a set timeing or else it will suck. the duds you will know if you get 1 beocuse it will be as fast as a x speed

i like ch o and x plates.

the plasma das uses some of the best brushes i ever seen in a 130 size motor and you can only use the replacement brushes for it. so you dont need to replace them but if you buy a mech dash ultra dash hyper dash jet tuned ect you need some pn brushes.

so do i order 12 of these
http://minizstore.com/view_ProductDetail.asp?pID=152
for the 2×6 stack? or do i need more for the replacement of the original ones on top, and is there any cheaper stores around?
and is that 2 wide 6 tall? – if so how will the top cover fit on?

where did you get just the bearings for for the replacement?
just a local hobby shop should have them?
any special sizes?

thanks for that about the can and duds 🙂

whats a ch o and x plate?
ive never seen any x plates in pics even on rice boy cars 😛
and ch o ?

yeah, ive seen about the other motors needing replacement brushes but not the ultra 🙂 very handy 😛

thanks for your help again guys, i wanna get right into this stuff, coz its so fun.

Ill be building a fairly big in door track for these babys soon, ill hold some local contests to make some $$ or something 😀

ill keep you guys posted on all my work when everything starts coming out of the planning stages :dead:

[jamiekulhanek]

2×6 stack will fit fine under the cover.

The bearings are a special make, you will have to order some from the usa or something http://www.rcmart.com

The plates are the linkage from the chassis and rear suspension, you will need carbon fibre ones.

The Plasma Dash needs no brush replacement.

[t00l]

Quote:

2×6 stack will fit fine under the cover.

The bearings are a special make, you will have to order some from the usa or something http://www.rcmart.com

The plates are the linkage from the chassis and rear suspension, you will need carbon fibre ones.

The Plasma Dash needs no brush replacement.

sweet, i was worried it wouldnt or something 😛
so how many will i actually need to buy, just the 12 which also covers into replacement of the stock, or 12 + replacement of the stock fets?

thats a shame about the bearings, how much difference will they make and will it be worth spending the extra money on these?

i know what the plates are, my z fell off a table and snapped it clean in half, thats why im looking for a new one, is the x plate just an x shape and whats the ch o plate?

thanks for clearing up that carbon fiber is the best, i was leaning towards this in the beginning

[jamiekulhanek]

I am unsure what vr-4 is on about (can never understand his posts) but i know there is standard plates, “O” shaped plates, and i believe the “x” plate is in the shpe of an x.

As for the FETS, you need to buy 12 new ones, the stock ones are discarded.

Contact Aaron (Moderator), he has some FETS he wants to sell i believe.

[GT-ahh]

I can prob do a better deal on the FETs…

[jamiekulhanek]

I thought you said you ran out of them, on the other hand gt-ahh sells them (duh!….obviously).

I bought 12 off him and was very satisfied with them.

[VR-4]

use tamiya mini 4wd bearings just soak them in alch. that makes them dry and they roll 4 ever. and if you side stack fets you can fit up to 24 under the cover.

i only payed 40 cents a fet for mine and you can find them cheeper.

as for plates. with a h plate you still need a roll shock set but if you use a o or a x you dont really need them.

since your new i dont know what your skill in soldering is but i would say just get 2 gpm v2 turbos and hook them up and its the same as a 2X6 stack.

if you can solder good just e mail me Toobadneil@aol.com and i’ll tell you how to side stack and stack 24 under the cover without any mods. and i’ll send you the diagram that mister e sent me

[t00l]

Quote:

use tamiya mini 4wd bearings just soak them in alch. that makes them dry and they roll 4 ever. and if you side stack fets you can fit up to 24 under the cover.

i only payed 40 cents a fet for mine and you can find them cheeper.

as for plates. with a h plate you still need a roll shock set but if you use a o or a x you dont really need them.

since your new i dont know what your skill in soldering is but i would say just get 2 gpm v2 turbos and hook them up and its the same as a 2X6 stack.

if you can solder good just e mail me Toobadneil@aol.com and i’ll tell you how to side stack and stack 24 under the cover without any mods. and i’ll send you the diagram that mister e sent me

i can solder, and a picture sounds good 🙂
can you please email it to archi@eon.net.au and ill try it out

gt-ahh do you have any fets left and how much are they each?
can you beat that 40c price, that sounds alot better than the 1.50 each that minizstore.com sells them for

but as for the numbers, wont a 24 stack just allow for the best ever motor to be put in there or the full power that the plasma dash can handle?

[Aaron]

Don’t forget VR-4 lists prices in US$, GT-Ahh and I have FETs in Australia a 3 day 55c post trip away from you.

GT-Ahh sells them becuase that’s what he does, I just have 20 leftovers I’d be happy to let go of..

--
Site Owner Guy.

[GT-ahh]

did u sell those fets to l337 crew? i am out but was considering getting another batch of 100… but if u want to flog urs aaron ill let u have this one 😀

[VR-4]

yeah forgot about that

i made the turbo that gtahhh has the blueprints for and works good im gonna try to up it to a 2X6.

i kinda like how if you make a vent like a nitro car it keeps the turbo nice and cool. just i had to impavise on makeing that turbo so it was smaller i got mine so it looks like a cube and fits under the pcb “really tight fit” and just mounted the cap ontop of the pcb cover.

if you guys are gonna get more fets i’ll get 100 and see if we can set up a group buy and get them alot cheeper. if you guys are intrested set up a post on minizracer.com

[VR-4]

yeah forgot about that

i made the turbo that gtahhh has the blueprints for and works good im gonna try to up it to a 2X6.

i kinda like how if you make a vent like a nitro car it keeps the turbo nice and cool. just i had to impavise on makeing that turbo so it was smaller i got mine so it looks like a cube and fits under the pcb “really tight fit” and just mounted the cap ontop of the pcb cover.

if you guys are gonna get more fets i’ll get 100 and see if we can set up a group buy and get them alot cheeper. if you guys are intrested set up a post on minizracer.com

[t00l]

id be intrested in getting 24 fets depending on the price and knowning if 24 is better than the 12 stack (2×6)

and after calling up the hobby shop today they have stopped stocking the plasma dash motors after them telling me they do stock them yesterday >:( anyone know anywhere on the net you can get em from?

and or who is doing then selling these fets from the group buy, if they are going to someones house first that can source down a plasma dash can ya plz give us a call!

[jamiekulhanek]

t00l you don’t need 12×2 fets, 6×2 is more than enough for a plasma dash.

VR-4 i don’t expect any australians will be interested in buying.

[t00l]

Quote:

t00l you don’t need 12×2 fets, 6×2 is more than enough for a plasma dash.

VR-4 i don’t expect any australians will be interested in buying.

id be intrested in the 12 then
i also wouldnt mind a plasma dash if someone can get one with some fets cheap for me

[VR-4]

you dont need 2×6 for a p dash all you need is 2X4 or any turbo. i like 24 fets becouse you get better run times and its faster and then everyone with a z has 2X6 stack only a few have 24 or 36 and even fewer have 24 or 36 with 6 cell’s

[PandaBear]

Quote:

The Plasma Dash needs no brush replacement.

… or is that: Plasma Dash *HAS* no brush replacement…?

Anyone ever see these things sold separately? 😯

[t00l]

Quote:

you dont need 2×6 for a p dash all you need is 2X4 or any turbo. i like 24 fets becouse you get better run times and its faster and then everyone with a z has 2X6 stack only a few have 24 or 36 and even fewer have 24 or 36 with 6 cell’s

can you explain how 24 gets better run times then?
if so wont atleast 12 be better than 8

[Pork_Hunt]

What voltage is arriving at the motor once you do a FET mod?

I hear a Plasma Dash draws approx 4 amps at 2.4-3 volts. If a FET mod is supplying 4.8-6 volts, it’ll draw about 8 amps, right? Are AAA NiMhs capable of throwing that much amperage?

[t00l]

Quote:

What voltage is arriving at the motor once you do a FET mod?

I hear a Plasma Dash draws approx 4 amps at 2.4-3 volts. If a FET mod is supplying 4.8-6 volts, it’ll draw about 8 amps, right? Are AAA NiMhs capable of throwing that much amperage?

i have the pn racing batteries, i dunno how much ampage they put out 🙁

so whats happening with this fet order?

[Aaron]

t00l, for pricing to your door GT-Ahh is probably your man. He’s been buying the things in stacks…

I do have 20 ‘surplus’ (I’m doing 5×2 stacks on two MiniZs). However check with GT-Ahh first as selling them is his game not mine, I just have spares.

If you want them soon and GT-Ahh doesn’t have them let me know.

A.

--
Site Owner Guy.

[t00l]

cheers arron, ill be in contact soon depending on some stuff 🙂

[t00l]

i got the plasma dash today
im just having a bugger of a time getting these bloody caps to stick to the motor with solder 🙁

and also, in a pm from jamie, he said i would need 3 caps, 1 on each end like the stock and then one joining the two together or something
does this sound right to you guys?

[GT-ahh]

yeah thats what u need…same value as the stock should do it… 10uF i think…

[t00l]

yeah i got the caps and everything, i have the two joint on the same as normal motors, now just what way do i fit the third on?

the stock and x speed have the 103 lable one facing out and one facing in so what way would the third go,and would this be right even putting this third one on?

[GT-ahh]

ceramic caps are non polarised.. they go on either way.. doesnt matter

[t00l]

but what will the third one do that joins the two up?

wont that be connecting it all together and short it out some how?

and also, what do you guys use for connecting tabs to the miniz or should i just rip the stock ones off?

[GT-ahh]

it smoothes out the spikes and this results in less interference which makes ur steering go nuts…
I just looped the wire round in an O shape and soldered the wire so its a solid loop…

[t00l]

ill get a picture and link in a sec to what i mean

blue is where this third cap is ment to go?

[t00l]

[GT-ahh]

yep….

[t00l]

cheers, ill put it on now 🙂

i have a 4×2 stack of the SI4562DY fets coming late next week, that should be fun getting them on and then i can give it a burl 🙂

i also got the s03 motor coming in the same shipment so it will also be good to look at the differences 😛

Edited by – t00l on 13 September 2003 21:55:52

[GT-ahh]

nice.. ive had trouble locating 4562s….
otherwise id stock and sell them… grrrrrr

[t00l]

http://www.minizstore.com
2$ american each

i found an order place online, you need to buy like 2000 to get them for 2$ each or like 10,000 for $1.50 each (american)

[t00l]

oh, btw, i have also been talking to minizstore and they asked me if i want to be a reseller

if i do orders of over 200$ i get a 20-30% discount, pitty we dont all live near by otherwise we could do a huge group buy 🙂

[GT-ahh]

$2 american is way too much… ill contact my supplier during the week. If they stock them or 4511s I might get a big batch…

[t00l]

how much would you pay for it then?

ive just run my motor in now it has the third cap on, ill be doing some other mods then once i get it up and running ill be taking some photos and videos of this ment to be top speed motor 😀

[GT-ahh]

well minizstore is probably making at least 200% profit mark up….

[t00l]

oh well, they were there and i was getting more stuff from em anyway 😛

[t00l]

w00t, got my fets the s03 motor, new fat mags and some tyres and a 12tooth pinion today, also went in and got a new soldering iron, some solder and about 130$ worth of wood and extras for my track 😀

so this weekend and tommrow will be madness setting everything up and it can be test time

all i goto know is how can i possibly fit this 12 tooth pinion i got into my motor mount? Ive seen these bits of plastic to raise up the motor but it still isnt raised up enough? and if it was raised up any more i get the feeling its gonna fall out!

Help 😛

[t00l]

oh yeah, shi.tty webcam pictures up here

http://eon.net.au/~archi/MiniZ/

plz note that the so3 hasnt been fitted properly yet and neither have the fets 😛

I will probo make up a html page with my progress later 🙂

[jamiekulhanek]

The mini Z pcb already has a small SMD capacito between the motor terminals but one more would do even more good i guess.

Aswell as smoothing out spikes cause by the arcing of the commutator (blue sparks) it also significantly increases motor life, because the sparking causes extreme heat, the same temperature as a welder.

[GT-ahh]

hey jamie, did u find that with ur dash u had to use a smaller spacer than quoted in the manual?

[t00l]

just finished installing the SI4562DY
2 hours work with break isnt bad for a first timer, and i goto say its a good job compared to some i have seen

tommrrow ill do back together all of the stuff and do a few more mods and try out to see if its all worked or not

then its start work on track day and oh boy is this gonna kick ass 🙂

[dgs73]

so where in Australia are you, Tool??

[t00l]

im south of perth in western australia

guess what guys!

47kph!!!!!!!!!!!!

300m in 23.34 from memory is what it pulled off last night 🙂

this was using stock motor mount, stock diff, stock mags and glued on 25g tyres

using it with modded motor mount wouldnt allow the shaft to spin, couldnt be assed using the ball diff after that and the 10g tyres came off within seconds on my WIDE mags!!!

so yeah, may be able to hit it a bit faster but oh boy!

this thing races pretty good to, nice pickup not slow like others have been saying and holy shit once it gets so fast it just spins hey!

goto get some big guard rails and a gym setup for this thing 😛

[t00l]

oh, btw, this thing aint even get hot!
dunno what you guys were talking about

but it chews the batteries like a bi.ch 😛

[mocky]

where did u get the fets!!
If u get more tell me! im so into these new things.

[jamiekulhanek]

I find that my plasma dash, with an alloy heatsink runs cooler than my stock motor…..so that means theres plenty of room for improvement in the power department.

Yeah try running the fucker on a 5 cell soldered pack!!! The lower resistance and higher voltage mean that it chews even more power but is way more efficient and powerful. But eats the batteries faster than….something fast.

[VR-4]

yeah the plasma dash is the best motore you can buy for the money people laughed at me when i told them i used a $10 motor but then after they see how it was beating there $50 hand wounds everyone started getting them.

i really like how cool the motor stays drop some neo magnets in that puppy and kiss your back tires good bye even when your glued on they fly off and 10g tires can peal out on low pile carpet.

i hurd storys of people running them on stock z’s and not hurting them but i’ll find out first hand next time i race.

[mocky]

nml is better than plamsa dash.vr4 who ever u raced must a utter nut,nml should’ve owned that race.plasma dash makes heaps of heat,ive got one, after 10 minutes its too hot,got burn by the ****** thing.in experience nml motors are better balanced,have longer playtime,make as much heat as a stock motor with neos in em which isnt alot.but pricing is tough, wats the point of trueing the commutater it doesnt matter aslong as its new and balancing the worst 5 hours ive ever spent.but id think u can make a custom hand wound for little under 15USd without shipping.

[VR-4]

you dont know what your talking about lmfao your compareing a $60 hand wound to a $10 machine wound. thats like compareing a stock motor to a brushless.

i can make a 10 turn hex that will kill a nml and it was posted on minizracer.com how my eng. killed his.

plasmas can come in 2 types you get a dud thats slow or a super ultra fast plasma. it took me 23 trys but i got a plasma 3 times faster than my 1st

i seen some pics of new morots based on the plasma useing flat wire and will blow any motor in a z away

[Pork_Hunt]

Quote:

i can make a 10 turn hex that will kill a nml and it was posted on minizracer.com how my eng. killed his.

Seems funny you can never post pics of this stuff tho…

[magtec_racing]

i seen vr4’s work and its nice. anyone can make a 10 turn its not very hard if you can do math. i have seen some 17turn hex’s that were so fast they spun apart in the can.

pm him and ask him about his sleeper .15fe lmfao the block and head are fe the rest is nova rossi vr4 is the biggest cheater i know but funny thing is he dosent get cought lmao. i thought it was funny when his “stock” hpi rs4 pro 2 beat my big block rs4 pro 2 and he was useing a poopy little .15fe then he showed me what was in the eng. lmao.

if you ever need any cnc work hes the man to talk to as soon as i can i’ll show you some stuff he made for me like my chassy he put my companys logo on and a set of the best rims in the world proline gumbys 🙂 there so cool, he made a set for my tmaxx.

tip dont try to race vr4 unless your packin some firepower 🙂 my maxx owned him lmao but he was a factory driver for thundertec racing but he changed to nitro and they wouldent give him blue carbonfiber just white or black.

if you ever wanna cheat and not get cought ask him how

[jamiekulhanek]

Quote:

i seen vr4’s work and its nice. anyone can make a 10 turn its not very hard if you can do math. i have seen some 17turn hex’s that were so fast they spun apart in the can.

pm him and ask him about his sleeper .15fe lmfao the block and head are fe the rest is nova rossi vr4 is the biggest cheater i know but funny thing is he dosent get cought lmao. i thought it was funny when his “stock” hpi rs4 pro 2 beat my big block rs4 pro 2 and he was useing a poopy little .15fe then he showed me what was in the eng. lmao.

if you ever need any cnc work hes the man to talk to as soon as i can i’ll show you some stuff he made for me like my chassy he put my companys logo on and a set of the best rims in the world proline gumbys 🙂 there so cool, he made a set for my tmaxx.

tip dont try to race vr4 unless your packin some firepower 🙂 my maxx owned him lmao but he was a factory driver for thundertec racing but he changed to nitro and they wouldent give him blue carbonfiber just white or black.

if you ever wanna cheat and not get cought ask him how

Hello again Lancer_evo/VR-4, you must think that you are very special indeed.

[Author]

Posts