Problems with 3.0
May 4, 2002 at 8:50 pm #8860
Wow, finally got my car with the extra 3.0 motor and tyre set.
stick it all together, charge it up, stick it on my desk and ….
Nothing. The car dooesn’t mvoe forward the steering works but no fw/bw movement. so i check the small square on the motor, its faceing forward, check to make sure its not jammed, its ok. if i lift the car up the wheels spin. it just seems to have no torque. I put the 1.0 motor in runs fine. So a faulty 3.0 motor ? No. runs fine in my girlfriends new car, no torque problems at all. if i stick her 3.0 motor in mine same problem. i stick the 2.2 motor that came with hers in mine and its fine also.
Any Ideas why my car won’t run a 3.0 motor ?
My car is a Mazda RX7 red 57mhz
her car is Skyline GT-R Blue 35Mhz
May 4, 2002 at 9:43 pm #13302
I’ve heard about this problem over on the Sigma Automotive Message Boards. Last I heard, there was no solution. It would appear that all cars are not created equally.
May 5, 2002 at 3:02 am #13306
Unfortunately I don’t have a definitiveanswer for you one way or another
It sounds suspiciously like a dodgy motor to me. Remember – the windings inside these things are TINY. The margin for error is also TINY. They’re made in a small factory in Tangshan, China (enough said?)
I’d contact whoever you bought it from, explain the situation, and seek a replacement unit.
Let us know what happens, OK?
May 5, 2002 at 9:29 pm #13317
I’ve tried 2 differant 3.0 motors both of which work in the other car.
Next time i see my friend i’m going to try a 3rd 3.0 motor, if that works then all is well and good, but to be honest i’m probably going to buy a booster set any way so hopefulyl that wont have the same problem.
May 6, 2002 at 6:52 am #13321
I have tried 3 3.0’s in my booster car……nothing. I put them in a friends regular car and it moves ok, but not as fast as the 2.2 motor that came with the car. Dunno whats up.
May 6, 2002 at 12:42 pm #13326
Yeah, ive not really had the room to test but i’m fairly sure that my RX7 with the 2.2 is faster than the skyline with the 3.0. not sure if it has anything to do with gear ratio ? didnt check the boxs to see what they came wiith.
Perhaps changing the gear would solve the torque prblem ?
May 6, 2002 at 12:46 pm #13327
Yeah – the issue MIGHT be not having enough room to really let the 3.0 motor run right out (would explain a speed issue – but not intermittent operation).
Remember, the 2.6 and 3.0 lack the punchy acceleration of the 1.0 –> 2.2 motors. You might pull some better results using a shorter gear ratio.
May 6, 2002 at 12:49 pm #13328
Think i’ll log onto e-bay and see about getting myself some gears + suspension set.
Unless anyone cantell me where i can order these from cheaper ?
May 17, 2002 at 8:28 pm #13620
I had simmilar problems. My 3.0 was VERY slow and jerky.
First you have to take the 3.0 motor apart. The plastic end is held on my bent over tabs. This plastic end has small hair sized brushes molded in it. One set ofbrushes gruonds itself to themotor case and the other set is the small metal square on the back. These brushes are to blame for the weakness.My motor was missing the small metal link from the brushto themotor case ground. Take a jewlers screwdriver and pry the tabs straight up. Take off the gear and press the motor shaft against the floor holding the side of the body so the motor rotor will push the plastic cap off. Now, take the motor rotor out.Take your 1.0 motor apart also and assemble a new motor using the1.0 motor housing, 1.0 motor plastic cap/brushes and the 3.0 Motor rotor.
The brushes are very delecate. Don’tjust cram the plastic cap on after you put the rotor in.
First, put the motor rotor in the housing. Then, push the rotor shaft up so the back of the rotor is sticking up. Then take the plastic cap/brushes and wiggel them around over the rotor so the brushes go on either side of the contacts on the rotor and the tail shaft goes in the hole of the cap. Now put your thumb on the cap and your pointer finger on the other end of the rotor (same hand) and use your other hand to slide the housing on over the plastic. Notice that there’s a little notch in the housing and a tab on the cap that need to line up.
I did this modification twice now and the 3.0 motor with standard gears goes way faster then the 2.2 with fast gear and even takes off faster. Also, put a little bit of oil where thei shaft goes in the motor. You won’t believe how much faster it runs. My 2.2 was squeeling really loud so I oiled it and it ran faster than ever before.
Hope this helps?
May 18, 2002 at 10:26 pm #13669mcojocParticipant
- Posts: 51
Sounds like different magnets in the 1.0 motor can might be contributing to the increase in punch and acceleration. I put a 3.0 in one of my cars last night and my 2.2 is faster off the line, butthe top speed is the same. The 2.2 has better acceleration. I did a “drag race” with the 2 cars to see what would happen. About 20 feet. The 2.2 went off like a bullet, leaving the 3.0 in the dirt, but when the 3.0 got up to speed, it didn’t lose any more ground…Same gearing. I’m trying PRABBIT’s mod with a 2.2 motor can. I have 2 burned out 2.2 motors, oneI lost last night out of the blue…(anyone else going through them like water????) I’ll post my findings as well…
P.S. During this test, The “frankenstein” car with the OEM car front end parts tracked straight as an arrow all the way through the test. The Standard bit pulled left and right… Another confirmation that my OEM mod is a good thing….:smiley4:
May 22, 2002 at 2:11 am #13843
What do you mean burt out. If it made a bunch of noise you just need to lube the motor. If it stopped running you probably fried the brushes which will make for a good mod motor if you put your 1.0 brushes in it.
I’ve swapped everything on these motors and the only difference I can tell is the motor rotor. The magnets and cases seem to all be the same. My 3.0 in a WRX toast my friends 2.2 in a RX-7. Even off the line. Then we swap motors and he beats me. My moded 3.0 is faster top speed and off the line compared to the 2.2 but you need a good set of brushes out of a 2.2 or 1.0 to make it work.
May 22, 2002 at 2:30 am #13844
DONT TAKE APART THE MOTOR!
According to the Tomy website, the 3.0 lucifer rotor requires a push start to operate. Itis designed for bitracers ONLY! If you didnt know, the bitracer is a slot car, which doesnt require steering because it runs on a slotted path. So what this means is that 3.0 motors sacrifice torque for top speed, which is great on a slot car track.
Its part number begins with an “S” not a “G”, which means it was never meant to be used for bitchargs. In fact, the website recommends against using the 3.0 on bitchargs.
If you want speed, get a 3.8 pink motor. There is more torque in that motor, and it doesnt require a push-start. But the 2.6 is by far the OPTIMUM choice for bitchargs. It provides the perfect ratio between speed vs steering.
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