So Who’s done What to there AWD’s

[rcs2die4]

Hey All,

Just thought I’d ask whatY’all havedone to ya AWD’s so far !!

So far I’ve installed :

Atomic ball bearing kit

Atomic carbon fibermain shaft

Atomic Blue alloy No2 Motor mounts

Kyosho X-Speed AWD motor with Yeah Racing BB Can

Silver Alloy wheel nuts

Team Associated stealth diff lube in both diffs

RC ScrewzStainless allan key screws in all screw holes on top

Blue R34 GTR Skyline cover

Sanyo HR-4U 900mAh Ni-MH AAA’s (These are sic ass cells guys !!)

I also have these parts which i haven’tinstalled yet

Kyosho 4.5deg Camber Knuckles

Kyosho Tie rod set

So yeah, spill ya guts guys.

[kevsta]

All I’ve done so far is…

Yeah racing ball bearing kit running dry

8.5mm drift rims

Packed diff with Team associated silicon diff grease.

I’ve got 1.5/3.0 degree negative camber knuckles and the front/rear tie rods which I haven’t installed yet. I’m going to only replace parts for durability on this chassis as I went a little overboard with alloy on my mr02.

[betty.k]

stop teasing guys! gimme some pics!

[rcs2die4]

Here”s some pics for ya !!!!

Here”s a pic with old faithful on(Cover)..

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b362/RCS2DIE4/My%20AWD/GTRCoverAWD.jpg

Shot of the chassis

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b362/RCS2DIE4/My%20AWD/AWDChassis.jpg

Shot of AWD X-speed motor, Atomic Motor mount/heatsinks and yeah racing BB can

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b362/RCS2DIE4/My%20AWD/AWDMotor.jpg

And heres a shot of the Atomic carbon center shaft (red arrow)

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b362/RCS2DIE4/My%20AWD/CarbonShaft.jpg

Some more parts are on there way too,

Atomic alloy drive shafts, Atomic alloy drive cups and Atomic alloy motor cover… can”t wait

L8R

Edited by – rcs2die4 on 06 January 2006 23:50:44

[peteWah]

That BB can is an audley can and they are crap….

I put a stock armature in 1 just to go a bit faster and burnt out stock fets in my 01 last year…

Buy the Pn bb cans or Atomic…

[rcs2die4]

I’ve got a few of these cans soldby yeah racing and so do a few mates of mine and non of us have ever had an issue with them !!!( I dont think you can buy them anymore anyway…)

I have a fewAtomic canstoo (1of which is on myplasmatomic motor) and yeah they look cool butit doesn’t proform any better then the yeah racing ones do !!! Maybe cooling but definatly no speed or torque differences, and at three times the priceI dont think it’s worth it….

Anyway, each to there own….

L8R

[ph2t]

what good is the diff lube? If I may ask…..

[ph2t]

Done the following to my ma-010.

PN Anima motor (lowest gearing)

Atomic CVD”s (they need to be shimed to stop the wobble they introduce, 🙁 )

3Racing bearing set.

Atomic low ride spring set (Med)

That”s about it for now. I”ve got the Kyosho alloy driveshaft comming along with alloy outdrives (both pn and atomic ones). I”ve also got the wheel set comming as well. I don”t like how on the stock shaft that the pinion on the front doesn”t have a notch to lock it into the shaft. BAh, even the dumbarse xmods had it! The Kyosho driveshaft at least appears to have a brass one that I”m sure won”t budge!

ph2t.

Edited by – ph2t on 08 January 2006 22:45:23

[ph2t]

I only had two caps on the Anima motor and I noticed it was a bit twitchy on the steering response and throttle at times. So I added the third cap.

I also added a power cap to the main chassis +ve/-ve, it””””s 1000uF at 6V so it””””s pretty small given it””””s capacity. The AWD chassis gives you a great spot to put it on as well!

ph2t.

Edited by – ph2t on 08 January 2006 23:59:48

Edited by – ph2t on 09 January 2006 00:01:03

[rcs2die4]

As you know the stock diifs are dry.. SoI thought that ifI putsome lube in there itwould allow me to control howfree they are !!! put a little more in the front then the rear !!! and alsohoping that it would make the action a little smoother too…. BUT!!! I”ve decided to remove the grease now asI think it ended up making them run a little to stiff even ifI removed most of it ..so now they are dry again,louder ! but seem to run OK….

One thing that has got me stumped though is as a completely standard car with just the lowest gearing, lowered all roundand some real hard rubber tyres, it would drift awesome on my hard wood floors… now with the same setupbut with the carbon centre shaft and theAWDX-Speed motor in a BB can it will not drift at all !!!!!

Any idears guys ???

L8R

P.S. Can’t wait to my silver Atomic CVD’s and Blue Atomic cups toturn up…

Edited by – rcs2die4 on 09 January 2006 00:37:08

[HACHI-RYOKU]

The carbon center shaft isn’t gripping the forward pinion well enough. Just a guess. I doubt it’s the motor.

[jamiekulhanek]

good stuff guys, now grab some FETs and lipo’s!!

[Aaron]

PN Outdrives, Dry bearings and alloy motor heatsink should be in mine by the end of the week.

Outdrives, bearing washer, heatsink will all be in the shop within 24 hours.

A.

--
Site Owner Guy.

[z-beam]

whats an outdrive? *boggles*

heatsink i understand!

[Aaron]

Outdrives are the little half shafts that go from the diff to the drive cups for the CV joints….

PN has some nice alloy ones (arrived today)

A.

--
Site Owner Guy.

[ph2t]

You getting any alloy CVD’s in that ARN’T ATOMICS?

[z-beam]

how is it better to have that part alloy if the wheels are plastic? i just dont get it!

but im still interested in em… what colour alloy heatsinks did you get?

[ph2t]

When you take into account the twisting forces on the drivetrain, the outdrive is one of the weak points.

ph2t.

[z-beam]

yes i suppose it is!

[peteWah]

There you Go….

[Aaron]

Outdrives, Dry Bearigns and alloy motor clip are in mine. It seems a fair touch quicker again – still running the PN SpeedyNM.

I think my next phase will be the electronics (Spider v2.0) before going for motor changes.

Have noticed (like others) that the plastic on the chassis is really poor, I’ve got heaps of stress fractures around impact points and where impact forces concentrate.

A.

--
Site Owner Guy.

[Aaron]

And here’s the Spider that’s going into the AWD.

Less than 20mm square – welcome to Spider v2.0 (EensyWeensy) :clap:

It will be mounted to the front of the Rx cover, and still use the stock motor terminals for motor wiring. We’ve switched to 22AWG wire for the v2.0 as it handles the current fine but is easier to work with in tight mounting places.

The v2.0 will mount INSIDE the chassis of an 01!

--
Site Owner Guy.

[peteWah]

:worship: When i get a AWD expect a order for 1 of these about a month after….

And when can i expect to be able to order a AWD chassis set of you, 1 was thinking early or mid FEB

The site is top notch BTW… :clap:

[TallduDe]

those hop ups look insaine

wish i had a job! hahahahahaha

[woosh_x]

Hi all I have a firelap 02 tx can I use this with the kyosho AWD

[ken_wyleung]

I think so,

The standard Kyosho Mini-Z is using AM27.

[Aaron]

New Stuff coming into my hands in the next couple of weeks:
Lightweight alloy top covers for Diffs from PN. These are the lightest around without any unneccessary weight.

Alloy Wheels from iWaver Two designs coming in. Shoudl be interesting

Battery Heatsink from iWaver

PN Racing 800MaH batteries

--
Site Owner Guy.

[woosh_x]

question on the awd motor, is it the same as a 02’s etc?
can i use a x-speed pro (once iv’e done fet upgrades) ?

[Aaron]

I’m running a off-the-shelf PN motor in mine, they’re the same motors but the capacitors are bent around on the AWD setups. Easy enough to change over or bend (as I did).

A.

--
Site Owner Guy.

[z-beam]

Aaron wrote:

New Stuff coming into my hands in the next couple of weeks:
Lightweight alloy top covers for Diffs from PN. These are the lightest around without any unneccessary weight.

Alloy Wheels from iWaver Two designs coming in. Shoudl be interesting

Battery Heatsink from iWaver

PN Racing 800MaH batteries

please tell me your getting the tri spoke and the dish rims in gunmetal Aaron!

those uncut ones look awesome, like the car is in motion when stationary!

with your motor you just bent the caps? wow ok… and there is no twitchy steering happening?

[Aaron]

No twitchy steering, bent motor caps. I did install a power cap like ph2t did and got a little extra punch off the line – but also got massive run-away problems.

Didn’t bother changing xtals to work out if the kid a couple doors down was stuffing around with his 1/10th gear.

I can’t remember the wheel choices I made – they won’t be dish wheels though – if you want dish wheels the new PN dish sets (plastic) would be a great idea 😉 Unless you want mirror polish finish?

As I’m heading out of town from the 10th through to the 27th of Feb I’m tryign to limit stock in transit, so didn’t make a large order.

A.

--
Site Owner Guy.

[z-beam]

the other two wheel designs IMO are awefull one is an odd star pattern and the other is a round hole/trinangle combo…

indeed, i want ze mirror finish! but the tri spokes will have to do… packs of 2 right? ill need for of them in gunmetal thanks!

[Aaron]

Well – Officially I’d like to say that I’ve written off the chassis of my MA-010. That plastics problems mentioned early have now devoped to a stage where the entire front corner of the chassis is crumbling apart.

Now there’s no doubt my combination of drifting at full throttle into solid objects and generally crap driving have caused the problem, however thanks to the more brittle plastic used for the MA-010 it’s pretty much trashed.

I have installed the new PN Racing diff top covers (front and rear) and have to say they’re a very impressive bit of gear. Very light and magic to look at.

Pics tomorrow.

A.

--
Site Owner Guy.

[rcs2die4]

Yeap, My front end is the same !!! And my drivin isn’t to bad !!! (yeah I got tickets !!! hehe ) na, but I haven’t hit anything harder then what I have with my 01’s and 2’s and the front is in bits !!

This is why I just paid for the upgrade Grey and Blue chassis from ken_wyleung… Thanks Ken, cant wait for iot to arrive !!!

[ken_wyleung]

The Grey and Blue chassis not just harder, you will feel your AWD has better handling too. But it is a big operation!
It can be apply on MR-01 and MR-02 too.

And

The Kyosho MDW009 Hard Universal Swing Shaft(MINI-Z AWD/2pcs) just released on Feb 2, I hope it will be better than Atomic or 3Racing.

[ken_wyleung]

This is my AWD with RX-7 FD

[Aaron]

Nice looking car Ken 🙂

I think the best Unis will be the Kyosho for a while – It seems everything else that came out real quick isn’t the greatest. I expect PN to come out with some – but they will probably only release when they have it ‘right’.

The attached pics show the top side of the damage, the phone camera couldn’t pic up the spidering cracks all through the front corner. So much so the front diff can wobble.

--
Site Owner Guy.

[Aaron]

Got these onto the car now. Seems to have stiffened up the steering response a litle compared with the plastic. However my car didn’t steer that well since the front end split 😉

They’re available in PN Orange, PN Blue (Pictured) and Raw Alloy.

I’ve got some stock (but not much) and will have prices etc today.

--
Site Owner Guy.

[z-beam]

ken that rx-7 looks really nice on the AWD… kinda inspired me to patch up the one i have!

and that alloy looks real swish Aaron! i like it!

[ken_wyleung]

rcs2die4 and z-beam, do you get the your AWD parts?

[z-beam]

indeed i did today ken! thanks a heap. the cambered knuckles are great, im getting far better control in my drifts in the kitchen. ill be needing some more power now me thinks to go any further with my awd.

the drift rims are a little to slippery for my tastes, dgs asked me on the phone what they were like compared to the autoscale tires (the sets that come with autoscales) and well, you may as well compare them to the plastic the chassis is made from.

id go as far as saying they are harder than mr01 or awd chassis material. so i gave them a rip on some full batteries on a real nice big flat clean cement and tarmac surfaces today and im a little underwhelmed. they are like driving on ice.

so off they go and the awd stock rubber comes back on to the new 4.5 degree kyosho knuckles. with bearings and some slight adgustments using the spacers ive set this beast up to perfection. the stroke limiting rings (tiny ones in the set) placed on the bottom of the front knuckles its dropped 1mm in the front, while the back i adjusted the spring tension with a pair of the larger rings in the set.

id really like to get a titanium center shaft next and add some more power using a neo mag so5. im a bit worried that ill snap the capacitors off it by bending it though…

[rcs2die4]

I also got my gear today Ken !!! (06/2) Thanks a heap !!! :clap:

The Grey/Blue chassis is far better quality then the standard one !!! it seems to be the same weight but it is much stronger !! and also looks the goods !! Now I cant wait to get some Blue alloy to complement the blue plastic parts :smiley1:

And as Z-Beam said the drift tires are a hard plastic !!! They work quite well on my vinyl kitchen floor with the 4.5 cambers and lowered 1mm all round !!!

I’ll have to wait till tomorrow (TODAY) till I find out the difference between the handling of the two chassis’s on the track but from what I hear, it makes a big one !!!

Heres some pix with the drift tires and the new chassis !!! 😯

[rcs2die4]

While I’m at it !! Here’s some pix of a friends car that I was suppose to post a while ago !! :shy:

In the first pic I know the R32 is not an AWD but, who could resist a line up of GTR’s like this !!! :smiley1:

His car has the following mods so far !!

Full BB’s
BB motor can with AWD X-speed rotor and NEO magnets
Clear Blue chassis
Shooter drive cups
C/F centre shaft
Blue alloy motor mounts and cover
5×2 fet stack
lowered 1mm all round

[peteWah]

z-beam wrote:

id really like to get a titanium center shaft next and add some more power using a neo mag so5. im a bit worried that ill snap the capacitors off it by bending it though…

Its not neo dude, look at the link.

http://www.pnracing.us/new/product.php?show=product&id=218

How to use PN motor in AWD

1. Take all the connect wire and 104 cap.
2. open the motor can, change to opposite direction, put the big two face to bottom, get more air to cooling down
3. solder the red and black wire opposite position.

http://www.pnracing.us/new/news_image/20051215-180148-1.jpg?r=45

http://www.pnracing.us/new/news_image/20051215-180149-2.jpg?r=42

http://www.pnracing.us/new/news_image/20051215-180149-3.jpg?r=33

And while i was looking around i saw the new So4…

http://www.pnracing.us/new/product.php?show=product&id=75

[ken_wyleung]

rcs2die4 wrote:

While I’m at it !! Here’s some pix of a friends car that I was suppose to post a while ago !! :shy:

In the first pic I know the R32 is not an AWD but, who could resist a line up of GTR’s like this !!! :smiley1:

His car has the following mods so far !!

Full BB’s
BB motor can with AWD X-speed rotor and NEO magnets
Clear Blue chassis
Shooter drive cups
C/F centre shaft
Blue alloy motor mounts and cover
5×2 fet stack
lowered 1mm all round

I have a question about the old GTR R34 and the new GTR R34 body, which is harder and stonger? Because I had old R34, but it is very easy to break, do the new one better?:smiley12:
Also on the handling, which one is better? (in same setting of AWD)

Thanks..:smiley9:

[rcs2die4]

Hey Ken !!!

The old 34 I have is an Iwaver cover !!! but it is still very easy to break the front lower lip but, the rest of the car is very strong !!!

It feals about the same as the new one but, I don’t know if the Iwaver cover is stronger then the old Kyosho one !!!

As for actual testing on the track with the new 34 I don’t know as my friend doesn’t use the cover, he has it just for show !!!! (PUSSY) :smiley9:

And on the handling side … I didn’t get a chance today to try it out on the track !!! :smiley13: But I will and let you know the difference….

L8R

[ken_wyleung]

This is my new AWD body, S2000. It is very fit to AWD!

[ken_wyleung]

This is my new AWD body, S2000. It is very fit to AWD!

[z-beam]

sorry ken, it doesnt look as good as the rx-7!

but, does it handle better?

[z-beam]

sorry ken, it doesnt look as good as the rx-7!

but, does it handle better?

[peteWah]

Its on the same mid setting, The car would be a little shorter than the Rx7 which would make it a lot of fun on the foam track…

[peteWah]

Its on the same mid setting, The car would be a little shorter than the Rx7 which would make it a lot of fun on the foam track…

[ken_wyleung]

It is a 90mm body, same as RX-7 (1mm offset); and it is lighter than RX-7; and the CG is better.
For the handling, which is a little bit better than RX-7.

[rcs2die4]

I’ve now also added the following parts to my AWD!!!

Blue Atomic alloy drive cups and
Blue and silver 3racing drive shafts..

It has removed all the play from this area !! The only play now is the wheels
themselves (centre holes have warn abit !!)

Pix below !!!

Also !!! For those who haven’t noticed or tried it yet, If you run 4.5
cambers on the front you can’t run the standard offset wheels that come on
the chassis only kit !!! You have to run the 1.5 offset or more or the rims
will rub on the top strut tower, mainly while cornering !!! (you can see in Pic1 where mine did !! :smiley13: )

[ken_wyleung]

Hi rcs2die4,

Do you think the 3racing drive shafts is too lost, so they may have more cambers and they are not balance too. I had that problem with Atomic drive shafts before, so change to Kyosho drive shafts.

Cheers

[rcs2die4]

No they are fine !!!! and the shaft is the right length too !!!

my wheels rubbed on the strut tower even with the standard shafts !!

[Aaron]

Got some new Bling on my AWD…

New iWaver Alloy wheels and the iWaver Battery heatsink/clip

PN Top covers from a few weeks back and that’s about it…

--
Site Owner Guy.

[z-beam]

the wheels fit well Aaron? id like to hear your opinions of thier gear.

[Aaron]

The iWaver alloys fit perfectly, run true and as far as I’m concerned are just as good as any other similar priced alloy wheel.

Like most of the recent iWaver alloy parts they’re great quality – strong and simple designs witha good finish.

A.

--
Site Owner Guy.

[ph2t]

very nice A, very nice…..

[nismotuningrocks]

cool i need to get some of those alloy parts the stock stuff isnt cutting it anymore

[z-beam]

Aaron wrote:

The iWaver alloys fit perfectly, run true and as far as I’m concerned are just as good as any other similar priced alloy wheel.

Like most of the recent iWaver alloy parts they’re great quality – strong and simple designs witha good finish.

A.

fantastic to hear, i want a set for a project im working on. if you do make an order from TE at all Aaron, please let me know as there are a few other things id like to pick up…

[Aaron]

Got some new stuff for a major rebuild of my AWD.

• Kyosho Skeleton Chassis set (Blue naturally)
• Kyosho Titanium prop-shaft
• PN Racing 2nd Generation motor heatsink cover
• PN Racing Macho Modified Motor

These are joining the existing bunch of Alloy from PN and iWaver. Still running stock universal shafts and stock knuckles/tie rods

So far they’ve held up to everything the Spider and Anima/Saber combos could dish out.

This rebuild will be that last change it gets for a while. Pics to come as I do the build.

A.

--
Site Owner Guy.

[Dogbreath Racing]

I hear that some of the bodies don’t fit on the new AWD?
I understand they have to be 90 or 94mm.

[ken_wyleung]

Yes, some of the bodies can not be fit with AWD, like F355, 512bb and Supra.

[Dogbreath Racing]

Is there a clearance problem, too narrow, what makes those bodies different?

[ken_wyleung]

The AWD chassis is higher than MR-01 and MR-015 so the flat bodies like F355, 512BB, etc can not be fit, no matter is narrow or wide body.

So, check the body high before you buy it for your AWD.

[ken_wyleung]

the Atomic gear is really good for AWD.

[ken_wyleung]

To fit the flat bodies :smiley16:

[Dogbreath Racing]

Listed:
3Racing BB Speed motor
3Racing aluminum center shaft
3Racing bearings
3Racing rear bumper
3Racing motor mount
3Racing motor heat sink
3Racing alloy swing shafts
3Racing 1 degree knuckles (front)
3Racing 0 degree knuckles (rear)
3Racing 1 degree toe in steering bar
3Racing 1 degree toe in bar (rear)
Topcad front top cover
Topcad battery holder
Topcad rear top cover
Topcad ball diff (front)
Topcad 15 degree treaded radials
Atomic ball diff (rear)
Lay down crystal adaptor
Single layer 4652 FET overlay
Autoscale NSX body

[Aaron]

Neat use of a terminal block there 😉

A.

--
Site Owner Guy.

[rcs2die4]

Hey Dogbreath,

SWEET lookin 010 !!!

Have you done much testing with the ball diffs ? if so what are your comments on them ?? I’ve been thinkin of getting them and your info will be muchly appreciated !!!

[ken_wyleung]

Atomic Ball diff is ok, but it has too much space with the center shaft.
3racing Ball diff is not good as Atomic.
I hope Kyosho can be release their Ball diff ASAP…
http://www.rcatomic.com/main/modules/news/article.php?storyid=157

[Dogbreath Racing]

Avoid the Topcad diff, thopugh it is alloy it is hard to adjust, feels a bit “gritty”, and doesn’t hold the settings well due to poor design. The Atomic diff is as smooth as butter and much easier to adjust, holds it’s settings perfect, the only drawback is that the body is plastic. It is still a very good diff and much much cheaper than the Kyosho diff. I will be ordering another Atomic diff to replace the Topcad unit in front (I don’t like the Lock-ups or One-ways for my style of driving)

The terminal block works great for a lay-down crystal adaptor, it allows many more bodies to fit including the NSX pictured (love this body on my MA010, low and wide, nice CG with this body)

[ken_wyleung]

It is a good idea, I was using 2 sets of Atomic Ball diff in my AWD, and now I will try Kyosho front one way with Atomic rear Ball diff and see what happen. By the way Atomic has some new parts for AWD, which are Front one way and 26t gear for Front one way and Ball diff.
http://www.rcatomic.com/main/modules/tinycontent/index.php?id=15

[rcs2die4]

Thanks Guys !!!! :topstuff:

So Atomic it is !!! The Kyosho will of cause be the best quality but there prices are just to damn expansive !!

I’m the same, just cant seem to get the nak of one ways !!! I like to brake late in the corner and doing so makes the ass end go round almost every time (1/10)….:rocket:

I haven’t been racing my Z’s lately, been converting my 1:1 to turbo :smiley4: in the garage so the tracks out of order !!! but in the time it’s been, there has been a few things releast that are a must, so ill have to start looking around for the best prices and place some orders…

Thanks again !!!

[Dogbreath Racing]

with one-ways you need to brake or coast earlier and power through the end of the turn, that way the fronts lock up and pull you through the turn….

[HACHI-RYOKU]

http://bitpimps.lixlink.com/pages/phpForum/viewtopic.php?t=7722

[ph2t]

Final crap load of ma-010 parts came in redcetly! yeaaaaaaaaah!

Building my own ma-010 from the ground up, staying kyosho in some key areas. I got burnt bad by Pn Racing / ATOMIC part mismatches the first time I got an ma-010 (to the point where I sold it).

This time, things are different. There’s only pics going up , but I’ll detail the parts list soon.

Some highlights….

Kyosho front one-way diff….

ATOMIC ball diff (rear)

KPGC Skyline (Kyosho autoscale model, the painted version of Faze’s)

No guts in it yet, just a rolling chassis. that should be sorted by the weekend. Got a nice, fatty comm, 36t pattern wind flashsp-2 special going in this!

credit cards are good! 🙂

ph2t.

[kevsta]

I’m also running the kyosho front one way and atomic ball diff in the rear.

Hit the brakes and the rear spins around just like a 1:10…:D

[ph2t]

lol, how do you find that setup mate? Did you have any issues with the ATOMIC ball diff?

ph2t.

[HACHI-RYOKU]

A little review on the Atomic ball diffs;

I’m using the Atomic ball diffs in mine and I’ve got an issue. With the lithiums, Nelly Deluxe and Anima motor I’ve obviously got heaps of power going to the drive train. I’ve got aluminum swing shafts and the Atomic ball diffs which have the plastic instead of aluminum to connect with the swing shafts. My problem is that it slips when I punch it. In fact it slips so bad sometimes that the car spins out. A closer inspection reveals that the plastic on the Atomic ball diff is soft and gives too easily under enough power. So, I might be switching back to the gear diffs since I’ve got some aluminum joint cups hangen around.

Question about the one way diffs; What are they? Do they only turn one way or something?

[betty.k]

Question about the one way diffs; What are they? Do they only turn one way or something?

yeah, it’s much like a bicycle drivetrain. pedal forwards and you engage the drive, pedal backwards or stop pedalling and it spins freely.

supposedly gives better cornering :8ball:

[leonli17]

For oneway, under braking it unlocks so only rear wheels are braking. during power on, it locks so both front wheels spins same rate hence give u a bit more power on steering.

[merc-blue]

one way VR front spool depends on your driving style i always droped tie using a one way and put time on with a spool, although one way does make it easyer to spin the car so take ur time and get used to it

[kevsta]

ph2t wrote:

lol, how do you find that setup mate? Did you have any issues with the ATOMIC ball diff?

ph2t.

What I meant to say was if you hit the brakes hard the rear spins around and the car will do a 180 degree spin out. If I apply the brakes slowly, it will slow down in a straight line.

I don’t have any issues with the atomic ball diff, but I’m only running the stock motor and don’t have any plans to run anything powerful. Oh.. and I broke the ball diff in through one set of batteries first before adjusting it to the right tension.

Does anyone put sewing machine oil in the one way bearing ?

:smiley14:

[ph2t]

There’s an issue with bearings when you build a chassis from the ground up like this.

the 4 differential bearings don’t come with any of the stock parts. You have to source them yourself.

I got the dimensions from the ma-010 data sheet, they’re:

Quote:

ID (d) (mm) : 6.000
OD (D) (mm) : 10.000
Width (B) (mm) : 3.000

So I got some ceramic ABEC quality ones:

http://www.smallparts.com.au/cgi-bin/store/item_info.pl?product=MR106A-ZZS-CB-AF12&alphafile=B=post

Just got them in today. Cost my just under $30USD for four. Yeah, not cheap! But when you look at it, the ATOMIC bearing set costs $37, and you still dont get the 4 diff bearings.

http://www.egrracing.com/mart/product_info.php?cPath=21_82&products_id=776

In fact, it’s quite hard to find the bearings in a full set (inc the 4 diff bb’s).

The official kyosho bearing set doesn’t come with them.

Neither does the PN racing set:

http://www.rckenon.com/public_html/shop2/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1048

Nor these ones from rcstation.com

http://www.rcstation.com/eshop/catalog/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=bearing&categories_id=342&inc_subcat=1&manufacturers_id=&pfrom=&pto=&dfrom=&dto=&x=0&y=0

So if you wanna build from the gound up these diff bearings need to be sourced from somewhere.

Thankfully you don’t need to buy ceramic bearings like me, you can get them from toyeast for a little of $3 for 5, lol…

http://www.toyeast.com/v3/pdtdetail.asp?pdt_id=A01401037

Can’t wait to try them out….

ph2t.

[kevsta]

I got my bearing set from rc-mart.

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=421_108_762_763&products_id=16219

Diff bearings are included ! Although not ceramic – they’re good enough for what I use it for.

[z-beam]

hey guys its been a while… almost at the end of a really long trip into the back ends of NSW…

i smashed the front end in of my AWD pretty bad the other night, i think the plastic is just a little to brittle as others have said before and after inspecting it closely i discovered a lot of tiny stress fractures around the front steering assembly.

im in the proess of carefully reconstructing some of the more shattered areas from the hardcore collision but i reakon ill be on the hunt for a more sturdy chassis in the old school dark plastic (do they make these?)…

before i had the smash i had a bit of fun with aluminium piping and mesh in my toolkit and came up with some very simple and effecting front and rear sway bars to support the steering assembly. approx. 3cm of 5mm hollow aluminium piping fits perfectly between the stock steering arms of the chassis. they did the job nicely and totally eliminated any flexing that was occuring before.

the other thing i did was make a simple mesh cage for the motor. kinda in preperation for the hotted up pn motor i want aaron to sell me asap (still havent gotten a pm bro! i want to spend some cash!). i tend to give my cars a bit of a beating and so this mesh cage really helps put a bit of protection between the motor and the little bits of crappy gravel that like magnets.

i assure you, once i get back to the home, some pics are in order… i really know how long its been since i contributed some quality to the site.

[Aaron]

There’s three options for the chassis:

The coloured ones – they’re clear and brittle
The stock original one
The Other Kyosho grey one

I think the grey one has the best chance of toughness, certainly the other two options are definately brittle. I do need to re-chassis mine but haven’t had a chance yet!

Got my PN Knuckles, PN motor mounts, and Kyosho alloy uni-shafts to go in too…

A.

--
Site Owner Guy.

[rcs2die4]

The Grey chassis with the blue add on’s, is alot stronger then any of the other chassis’s hands down !!!

I’ve hit the same obsticle in the garage (goin outside the track!) with the original, a clear blue and the Grey/Blue chassis and the G/B one is the only one still going !!! infact the G/B one doesn’t even have a single crack in it where the others just shattered !!!!

I recommend the Grey/Blue chassis if you want it to last !! and I also think it’s the best lookin one too, Bonus !!

[rcs2die4]

The Grey chassis with the blue add on’s, is alot stronger the any of the other chassis’s hands down !!!

I’ve hit the same obsticle in the garage (goin outside the track!) with the original, a clear blue and the Grey/Blue chassis and the G/B one is the only one still going !!! infact the G/B one doesn’t even have a single crack in it where the others just shattered !!!!

I recommend the Grey/Blue chassis if you want it to last !! and I also think it’s the best lookin one too, Bonus !!

[z-beam]

hey Aaron, whats the chances of tracing down some much needed “repair parts” for me. wait did you say you need to re-chassis yours? does this mean you have a grey/blue sitting around? please i beg you sell it to me.

[Aaron]

I don’t have a Blue/Grey around – just a clear blue, but I can chuck one in my next order for you.

A.

--
Site Owner Guy.

[z-beam]

sounds good, not sure how sturdy my repairs are yet… no new awd alloy rims in the shop either…

[HACHI-RYOKU]

I am now replacing my chassis too. Not because I banged the hell out of it though. I’m replacing mine because it warped from heat. I’ve got the Anima/lithium/Nelly Deluxe combo and the motor gets scorching hot. Sometimes it smokes. Now it sits like one of those tables that wobbles.

Interestingly enough, I decided to go with a cooler motor. My parts were still on order and I got impatient so I made a Frankenstein out of loose stuff. I used an off-brand ball bearing case, gold neo mags, PN racing carbon brushes and an Xmod gen 1 stage 2 armature with the second lowest gear ratio. The thing absolutely flies and stays cool too. I need to swap out the ball bearing case as the one I’m using doesn’t fit correctly. It’s just not quite the right size. It’s one of the ones from one:28thrc. Not sure of the brand. The case is good in an Xmod, but it’s not fitting correctly in my MR-010.

I’ll get more info on this motor after I swap bb cans and swap the chassis. I’ll also get info on a PN S02 armature in a bb can with like stuff.

[betty.k]

is it perhaps the placement of the caps that make this new motor a poor fit?

if your motor is getting hot enough to smoke then technically it’s overgeared and you’ve killed it! overheating a motor can ruin the magnets, oxidise your brushes, cause the insulation on the winds to melt and cause shorts, melt the endbell, melt solder and i’m told it can even warp chassis’:smiley2:

i’d choose between lipos and hot motors, i personally wouldn’t run both. i’d stick with the st2 arm or a kyosho xspeed or anything relatively stock. :8ball:

[Ogier]

Could the smoke have been coming from the disintegrating chassis rather than the motor? 🙂

[HACHI-RYOKU]

Ogier wrote:

Could the smoke have been coming from the disintegrating chassis rather than the motor? 🙂

That’s what I’ve been thinking. The motor still seems ok. I’ve killed three set of brushes on it, but I take it apart, clean it up and put it back together again each time. So far it runs good when I get it back together. I’m gonna put it in a MR-02 and see how it compares to a new Anima MM that I picked up.

[snailpace]

Sorry if i’ve sidetracked a bit but has anyone tried using the ATOMIC “High precision” adjustable diff in their AWD? At the two extremes, very loose setting the car stays stationary while the diffs spin like mad and where it’s tightened up it will be a locked diff. My intentions is halfway to act like a proper diff and smooth but that’s not happening:( My problem is, that no matter what setting i’ve set it at, overall the diff has a fair bit of friction which drastically affects the speed (much slower than stock) which also gets the motor warmer than usual (Stock or x-speed). I haven’t opened up the diffs to take a look or tried any lubrication, thought i’d get some advice from anyone out there.

I’ve checked the free spinning of the outdrives in the knuckles and there’s no binding there. Seems like you can’t get the stock AWD diffs which are very smooth. Can’t wait for Kyosho to bring the ball diffs, would be much more expensive but less headache.

[HACHI-RYOKU]

I’ve got two Atomic diffs in mine. They’ve been working fine. I have them pretty tight though. Otherwise my car pulls to one side pretty bad. I have run them loose at times and they seem to do ok that way, minus the urge to jump to one side on acceleration.

I’m not overly impressed with them though and I also can’t wait for Kyosho to come out with some good ones. I’ve been thinking about running with the stock diffs.

I’m starting to wonder if they will ever come out with them.

[ken_wyleung]

Hi all,

They are my latest AWD project

[betty.k]

wow! looks like they got more stuff in hong kong we don’t!

so ken, settled back in ok?:8ball:

[ken_wyleung]

I am fine, thank you.

Most of the parts from Atomic and 3racing and they are not bad.

[Admin]

hey everyone yeah i just got my mini z awd a few weeks ago, putting a spring loaded antenna and a atomic one way diff, soon to come atomic ball diff, front and rear cover and maybe titanium screws . are there any good suggestions for my next bach of parts??

[Kerosene]

My chassis cracked a while ago and got so bad that the batteries were losing contact – I glued it back together but it just cracked in another place. This has probably got something to do with the way I drive 😀

I’ve glued a cf plate inside the battery compartment and also underneath the car, and bent the spring plate things back a bit so the batteries don’t put so much pressure on the chassis. Seems to be working.

[Admin]

i finally updated my awd with atomic Ti dog bones, soft short springs, 0deg camber knuckles and drift tires.. more to come later

[ph2t]

@kero, mine broke in the same place!!! And broke the other day again too! That’s a good tip I will do.

@tada, if you’re racing the AWD outside on concrete then I strongly suggest the cambered knuckles for your next purchase. At least the 3.0 Deg ones.

Also look at wider offset wheels. I use 1.5 on teh front and 3.0 on teh rear.

The camber and the offsets made my AWD usable on concrete. I highly suggest those upgrades mate. Oh and of course a nelly or a spider and a pn SABER motor…..

You can get the spider turbo and the pn saber motor from the ausmicro shop. http://shop.ausmicro.net 🙂 See my sig if you want to get a nelly.

ph2t.

[Admin]

yeah i would get 3deg cambers but i dont have enough money also iv been thinking of a xspeed motor cuz i dont want a car that makes ot hard to drift, and about the spiders or nellys, are they any good?? iv been thinking of the board at atomicmods but not sure yet, oh and im gonna buy a metallic blue 350z as my first autoscale.

[Aaron]

Call me a bit slow but I finally stuffed all the parts into the new Clear Blue chassis. I think the real motivator was sending off most of the original rear section to a member.

Anyways here’s an update on my awd.

First new part into the fray was a carbon centre shaft. I dropped it onto the scales and it weighed in at a masive 0.34g. The stock shaft was a massive 1.81g. To me this indicates I’ve significantly reduced the rotating mass of the shaft which in turn should improve acceleration of the drive train.

I’ve flicked the stock drive shafts and replaced them with genuine Kyosho alloy shafts. The alloy shafts are a very neat design and while they may not reduce weight they seem a more precise build and run smoother.

I’ve switched to the PN racing heatsink motor mount clip and the PN racing alloy motor mount plates (Still A1/B1).

PN Racing knuckles have been installed all round the car and slide smooth.

The diffs have been replaced with silver TopCad ball diffs. These needed to be adjusted for smooth running and look great against the blue of the chassis.

Anyway enough of the blurb.

On with the pics.

--
Site Owner Guy.

[z-beam]

what was the weight difference of the stock drive shafts Vs. the alloy ones A?

and i love the look of the Pn alloy on your rig, but i just dont think my dusty floor and that big old hole will go together to well heh…

[z-beam]

what was the weight difference of the stock drive shafts Vs. the alloy ones A?

and i love the look of the Pn alloy on your rig, but i just dont think my dusty floor and that big old hole will go together to well heh…

[rcs2die4]

Geee guys !!! The novalty warn off or something ????

No updates since July !!!!!

[rcs2die4]

Come on… Somebody must have done something to there AWD !!!

I’ll have some pix up soon with whats been going on in my neck of the woods !!

[kevsta]

rcs2die4 wrote:

Come on… Somebody must have done something to there AWD !!!

I’ll have some pix up soon with whats been going on in my neck of the woods !!

I bought lots of awd parts that I need to fit. Parts such as the grey blue chassis, a metal drive shaft, kyosho cv joints an atomic stock motor, the kyosho multi off set wheel pack and more that I can’t think of right now. I’ll get around to fitting them all one day. 😀

[rcs2die4]

finally Someone !! HEHEHEHEHE

yeah, make some time and get that thing together !!!

Post some pics and let us know how she..or he go’s !!!

[ph2t]

If I could only buy time like I buy parts, lol……

I’ll update mine soon. A few changes have been made to say the least……

[rcs2die4]

LOL !!! Can’t wait to see it ph2t !!!

[Author]

Posts