TT-01 Chassis upgrades

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This topic contains 22 replies, has 10 voices, and was last updated by  Admin 11 years, 9 months ago.

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  • #9668

    Ka_Bluey
    Participant
    • Posts: 11

    Hi all, im a nOOb to this site so please go easy…nah knock yourself out!!

    Ok so i have got my first RC a TT-01 kit from Hobby One up here in Brisvegas. I got the whole kit (including batt, charger, controller, scizzors) for $375 which i dont think is too bad.
    Altho now thinking about it, i could have bought a better chassis for the same price I have spent now on upgrading some bits and pieces.

    So my question is. I want to make the car go faster. So far i have full ball bearing bearings, alloy drive shaft, adjustable dampers, limit-less ESC and 21t double motor, i have noticed a difference from the 27turn (540 type) motor.

    I have been looking at getting bigger/smaller spur gears for the car. Can anyone please help me out as to how the spurs/gears work?? Currently on the motor i have a 19t spur and a 58t gear (stock). How do i go about upgrading and what changes will this make??

    Please help..

  • #26562

    klims
    Participant
    • Posts: 332

    by changing the spur gear you change the gear ratio between the gear on the motor and the drive gear. a bigger spur gear (smaller ratio) mean better top speed but less acceleration and a smaller spur gear (larger ratio) means better acceleration. just like in your car 1st gear will give you great acceleration, but crap top end whereas 5th gear will be opposite. also due to the higher load on the motor with the larger spur gear it tends to drain the batteries quicker.

  • #26565

    Dangerous Dave
    Participant
    • Posts: 229

    the one on the motor is referred to as the Pinion, and it’s this one that is by far the most easily changed gear.
    when buying new gears, make sure they are compatible (shaft size, Imp/Metric and pitch).. Tamiya stuff is metric.
    and yeah, like klims said – small pinion is like 1st gear, bigger one like 5th…

  • #26567

    leonli17
    Participant
    • Posts: 602

    the stock pinion is 19t and spur is 58t according to you. which i’m pretty sure that the ratio is set for a 540silver can motor. if u upgrade to 21t or 27turn motor. you should get smaller pinions. either that or get a larger spur. try 15-16t pinion.

  • #26367

    kevsta
    Participant
    • Posts: 973

    Visit http://www.gearchart.com and print yourself a gear chart for the TT01. I think the TT01 has limitations on the size of the pinion gear that you can use similar to the mini m03 chassis.

    For a 540 silver can 27T motor a gear ratio between 4.5 – 6.0

    For a Stock 27T motor a gear ratio between 6.5 – 8.0

    If using the lower end of the gear ratio range, make sure drive train is silky smooth and free as motor will run hot and could kill the magnets…

    I’m not sure what gear ratio to run for a 21T motor, perhaps someone else can make a suggestion…

  • #26247

    Ka_Bluey
    Participant
    • Posts: 11

    SORRY GUYS, MY SPUR IS ACTUALLY 61T

    Thanks for all the suggestions. When i first asked about upgrading my motor for more speed the guy at the hobby shop gave me a 13t double motor, i told him i just had the full ball bearing, alloy shaft and dampers. Then when i put it in the motor hardly worked properly. So went back and they gave me the 21t double motor. That time i bought in my RC and told him that my pinion gear was 19t.

    I think i understand the whole gear ratio now. Well with the pinion and the spur.

    I have problems also with the car constantly wanting to spin out. Like its wanting to drift out of corners. Could this be my dampers being to hard?
    Would i need to get a lock rear diff?? Is that possible for the TT-01?

  • #26239

    Ka_Bluey
    Participant
    • Posts: 11
    leonli17 wrote:
    the stock pinion is 19t and spur is 58t according to you. which i’m pretty sure that the ratio is set for a 540silver can motor. if u upgrade to 21t or 27turn motor. you should get smaller pinions. either that or get a larger spur. try 15-16t pinion.

    Thanks, will try that tomorrow, they cant cost too much $5-10? at local hobby store?

    Im so bad at all this gear ratio working out thing. Glad you guys help me out.

  • #26140

    merc-blue
    Participant
    • Posts: 1547

    another good idea is get a good quality rebuildable motor, a good 27 turn geared correctly will be haster than a cheap 13 double

  • #26141

    Ka_Bluey
    Participant
    • Posts: 11

    That would be loads of fun, but how far can you go with the TT-01??

    I know its a beginners chassis but i dont mind hopping it up so it handles good. At the moment i have drifting problems and cornering problems. How can i fix this?

    My motor is a Venom Fireball Modified 21d

  • #26143

    betty.k
    Participant
    • Posts: 2485

    drifting and cornering probs? sounds like tyres and suspension;) :8ball:

  • #26144

    Ka_Bluey
    Participant
    • Posts: 11

    @betty.k]drifting and cornering probs? sounds like tyres and suspension ) :8ball:[/QUOTE wrote:

    I have dampers that i bought over the net, they have a little nut on them to adjust the suspension. At the moment they are on the softest.

    Also have slick tyres with soft inserts.

  • #26145

    kevsta
    Participant
    • Posts: 973

    The tamiya kit tyres don’t offer much grip and wear out quite easily. Most club racers use Sorex tyres.

    Is your car understeering or oversteering or both ?

  • #26146

    Ka_Bluey
    Participant
    • Posts: 11
    kevsta wrote:
    The tamiya kit tyres don’t offer much grip and wear out quite easily. Most club racers use Sorex tyres.

    Is your car understeering or oversteering or both ?

    Yea though they would be fairly crap…but didnt want to believe it.

    It understeers into corner unless its rediculously slow then when i accelerate out of the corner wants to oversteer.

  • #26148

    merc-blue
    Participant
    • Posts: 1547

    Put on a set of Sorexs or Takeoffs in a medium compund with a medium insert (dont use sorex rims though)

    the venoms are a hopeless motor, i would sya get a “tuned” 19T they are a great combo of torque/speed.
    Stiffen up the suspention, the nuts are to adjust ride height not dampening or spring characteristics (cahnge the springs and oil./iston for that)

  • #26150

    Ka_Bluey
    Participant
    • Posts: 11

    Thanks for all the help guys. For the time being i will use this motor, if I ever decide to do bit of racing i might get a better one then.

    Tyre wise, next pay day i will go out and pick some up.

    Also i really do think that the nut does adjust the stiffness as ive noticed that the car is alot bumpier when wound up so must stiffen them.

    Note to self: Only buy Tamiya equipment!!

    One other question. What surface can i use the different types of tyres on?
    For example foam tyres vs slicks vs radial??

  • #26152

    kevsta
    Participant
    • Posts: 973

    Here’s a link to the theory of rc car handling for some light reading…

    http://home.tiscali.be/be067749/58/

    Like Merc said, that nut on the damper is really for setting the ride height. You should probably aim to have the chassis sit at around 5mm to 5.5mm off the ground if running on a smooth tennis/netball court surface.

    Preloading the spring to make them harder means you won’t have any droop/chassis uplift.

  • #26161

    betty.k
    Participant
    • Posts: 2485

    seriously, the preload nut adjusts ride height only, the only way to change a spring’s characteristics is to use a different spring.;)

    i personally think “radial” tyres (street tyres with tread in the rc world) are mostly for show, just narrow it down to rubber or foam.
    for outdoor concrete/tarmac/bitumen either choice will be fine.
    foams will usually be glued and trued so there’s no messing around involved.
    rubber tyres will need to have inserts and be glued, generally cheap preglued rubber tyre/rims sets are rubbish.

    don’t bother with fancy rims, they’re usually throwaway items when the tyre wears out. :8ball:

  • #26165

    Dangerous Dave
    Participant
    • Posts: 229

    if the spring is tensioned against the droop stops the susp will be firmer.. along with a 2 storey ride height ahahaha..

    can cut springs to change their characteristics, but not recommended (in effect becomes a different spring anyway).

  • #26172

    TallduDe
    Participant
    • Posts: 1430

    get TRF shocks u can adjust ride height with them.

    yeah and bettyk is right fancy rims arent worth the money i bought fancy rims and they broke during the race (i was in the lead).

    get some dish rims there cheap and they wont break easily.

  • #26175

    Ka_Bluey
    Participant
    • Posts: 11

    Sound there is so much for me to learn about RC.

    Will be playing bit with the toe adjusters. Altho seeing as how this chassis is limited to modifications i might have to hunt down a better chassis, with more adjustments that come stock.

    Umm i have a TL-01 chassis that i bought for the body, how much is the re-sell value for one of them?

  • #26022

    mini-g
    Participant
    • Posts: 267

    hey, get the rear toe-in uprights, this will help stop the rear end spinning as much! and get some sorex 28’s or 32’s, all round. use tamiya 24mm rims with +2 offset( the hobby shop will know) for a 21 or 19 turn motor go up to the 20 or 21 pinion. hope this helps you buddy.

  • #26029

    merc-blue
    Participant
    • Posts: 1547

    most people dont ue tamiya bodies cause there to expensive to damage lol, the resale of a TT01 isnt that good.

    you best bet if your just thrashing it around is to keep the TT01 and make it handle arite, i mean you will have no worries dropping a 6turn into a properly constructed TT01 but your setup has to be spot on.

    what i would do if it were mine,
    Foamies (medium compund)
    Bearings,
    CVA Shocks (TRFs if i had the money)
    Alloy drive shaft
    ball diffs
    Toe in rears (if you have a choice get 2 degree)
    alloy motor mount (and clip on heatsink with fan)
    Adjustable suspention set (the set that gives you turnbuckles)
    4 degree castor blocks (if you can get them)
    and a CF chassis stiffner (possibly shock towers if there is to much flex in them)
    for electronics a EA tuned 19T chameleon a decent ESC (name brand not a cheapie) a few decent packs (get packs off racers top end racers only use packs for a month or so they are stilll great for everyone except these anal retentive guys, and they are maintained on top equiptment and well looked after) and a moderate charger

    a well setup car like this will be a dream to thrash will be much more fun than anythign you could imagine also will drift very well

  • #61490

    Admin
    Participant
    • Posts: 5949

    Hi all! Check out my TT-01 Graphite blog http://tt-01.blogspot.com/

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