Tyres for smooth concrete

[aussie_miniz]

Great website,

Hi all, I am new to the game of mini-z racing, I have done a bit of 1/10 offroad with a RC10B3 out at Knox. I now have a firelap2.0 and 4.0, I am looking to host some races in my shed, 12x6m, the floor is smooth concrete so I am after the best grip tyre I can get. What are your experiences with tyres on this surface, Any help with this would be great.

[ken_wyleung]

Hi,

Welcome to the world of Mini-Z, where do you want to setup your track (indoor or outdoor)? It is very important for select the material for your track.

By the way, where are you?we also looking for some good players to play with.

[aussie_miniz]

Hey Ken,

My track will be indoors, well in my shed anyway. I live in South Gippsland(near Phillip Island), about 90km from Melbourne, thats why I gave up racing a Knox. I have tried my car in the house on floor boards but it keeps spinning out on corners, which is what it does in the shed on the concrete. I see ausmicro are selling a few types of tyres, but I am unsure which way to go. How do you run your car Ken, have you got many hopups, run stock engines etc. Thanks for the reply

[ken_wyleung]

For the Carpet, you can try to get them from large hardware shop, the carpet is design for car inside use, very short or not hair; arround AUD20.00 /M.

For the car, we are using Atomic Front 10 degree and Rear 10 degree for MR-02 (MM and RM), Front 20 degree and Rear 10 degree for MR-01. For other hopups,just some standard hopups is fine, like Kyosho Ball Diff, ball bearing, carbon T platewith Atomic Stock motor.

If you have time at Friday night, I will like to show you our race and track in Ringwood.

Enjoy the Mini-Z!

[betty.k]

gandini foams are the best for concrete

[peteWah]

Hi there,

Topcad alloy rims come with good rubber and have helped me when it comes to surfaces like these, not sure on the degree but they are soft and suitable for such a surface…

These cars can be hard to setup at first, You will get it in the end.

Ball Diff, ball bearings, carbon h plates are a starting point
Like Ken has said and many others on this site will say to get these items firstly and start working around that…

Who else has more to add :smiley2:

[TallduDe]

I do!

a Z needs (in my experience) a hard carbon h plate, ball diff, rear suspension dampner bearings and 20-30 degree tires all round. plus springs can help.

after that its personal prefernce, trust me.

everyone has different opions on what works.

[aussie_miniz]

Hey guys,

Thanks for the replys. Betty.K – what type of gandini’s do you recommend? Hard soft medium? also I want my original mclaren top to fit, so I don’t want to go much wider with the rims. I have added bearings, and will be getting a new alloy motor mount as I broke the first one within 5 minutes of having it, I will also get a carbon h plate as the stock ones are not 100% square.

Thanks again.

[dgs73]

firstly, welcome aussie_minz! Myself, i’d suggest medium Gandini’s on all four corners… and a ball diff is extremely helpful in the minute adjustments that can be attained. Like petewah sez, it’s a matter of tuning and testing till you get the setup you like. Spring sets and the 3 differing h plates (they come in a 3 pack…)shouldbe a good place to start. Alloy rims are another way of gaining extra stability, but at the cost of extra weight, and greater rotating mass.

[betty.k]

any of the tyre compunds will be good with the foams but i’d say medium – soft to be sure. make sure you get the zero offset rims, they fit the mclaren body perfectly

[kevsta]

Another thing – don’t buy cheap branded h-plates as they tweak very easy and don’t return back to their normal shape. Stick with Kyosho or better still go with an O plate.

[peteWah]

Im guessing that you are talking about the smoothest concrete finish you can have like in a supermarket car park.

The topcad rims i am talking of cost aus $20-25, if your going for foam buy a medium to soft compound, you may even find that you break traction with medium on this suface…

Good luck :smiley2:

[dgs73]

if it as smooth as pete sez, then soft rubber will just build up dust very quickly, and that wont help you at all… foam in soft or medium would be best… just try a few options and see!!!

[aussie_miniz]

Thanks for the info, the concrete is pretty smooth, I will test a soft foam tyre first and see how I go, I will post some pics of my track in my shed when I get setup.

Thanks for the help guys.

[aussie_miniz]

Just another quick one, off topic. I have just recieved a PN Anima motor in the mail that I purchased through ausmicro.com. I am going to install it in a firelap 4.0 with turbo, do I need to run the motor in before hand, or are they ready to go?? If i need to run in, what is the best way?

Will wait for reply before I do anything.

[Aaron]

In my opinion you don’t need to ‘run in’ any motor unless you’re dead set 100% serious about racing. However it doesn’t hurt. For the most part you can simply mount the motor, and run it for about 15 minutes on a single AA battery …. Ofcourse everyone has different methods and approaches and mines fairly simple. I belive running in becomes more critcal when you get to the physically bigger classes of motors (like 1/10ths)

The tyres will ship tomorrow 🙂

A.

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Site Owner Guy.

[aussie_miniz]

I will not be racing this engine, it is for my firelap4.0, just wanting speed. Thanks for the advise, will look forward to testing those tyres.

Regards

[peteWah]

They are a good motor straight out… :smiley2:

[TallduDe]

sorry to hijack this thread but what timing system you using ken?

looks like a scannner?

[ken_wyleung]

I am using Lap Wizard now, max for 10 cars.

[aussie_miniz]

Now I have the motor, I need a turbo, any sugestions, how good are the spiders for the firelap and this engine?? I sent a pm to PH2T asking about a nelly but so far no answer. Will the spider work just as well as the Nelly for this setup?? Also Aaron do you guys stock any alloy gears for the firelap 4.0, don’t want the insides comming apart.

Cheers

[peteWah]

Send a email to Aaron, He will get back to you on that much needed Answer to the Question in detail…

I was thinking a spider will handle either firelap fine
And the Alloy stuff for the 4.0 should be available in the ausmicro shop to the best of my knowledge…

[Aaron]

Quick answer: Yes the cobo will be fine as long as (and this goes for all turbos) you don’t overheat the thing by running too hard, locking up wheels etc etc.

There isn’t really much available in terms of gears, you can get Titanium intermediate gears, but only delrin on the diff side (on a Ball diff) and the motor side some alloy gears fit but the plastics are fine and often a better choice becuase the motor mount doesn’t allow much scope for size changes.

A.

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Site Owner Guy.

[aussie_miniz]

Aaron,

thanks for the reply, do you offer a heat sync with the turbo or are they extra, are they on the website? If for some reason I want to use lithpoly’s will the spider be up to the task?

Cheers

[ph2t]

aussiemini-z, soryr about the late replys but chec your pm’s.

for smooth concrete I would reccomend that you put carpet down. betty and I are heavily experienced now in actauly racing on concrete and this is the type of concrete surface that’s outside. the concrete surface I think you have is the very smooth, finished, indoor variety, yes? IF that’s the case then not much will stick to it at all.

otherwise, go gandini acing foams on the rear, and iwaver 30degs on the front (from the ausmicro shop). or get the kyosho 30 deg redials from rcmart. they’re also excellent.

but again, this is for externallyu exposed concrete racing.

also, keep in mind that toe-in and and camber make a difference to cornering.

cheers,

ph2t.

[Aaron]

I will be getting some 10 degree rubber from iWaver for testing soon. I suspect it will be a good choice for winter running 🙂

A.

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Site Owner Guy.

[ph2t]

cool, for 10deg I’ve only ever tried atomc, they were VERY sticky and VERY soft. Was worried about them loosing tension after a bit of use, but they seemed to hold up ok.

generally I’ve found that now running on betty’k concrete track, you should change your tyres after 5-6 battery ‘packs’. I think betty changes them even more frequently than that.

the iwavers are good for their price, they don’t last as long as my favorite front tyres, the kyosho 30deg radial normal width tyres. they’ve got a cool tread, but it dissapears after a few packs, lol….

let us know when they come in A.

cheers,

ph2t.

[betty.k]

actually i get about 10 – 15 packs from a set of tyres. i’m running kyosho 40deg up front and gandini foams on the rear. surprisingly the rubbers wear slightly faster than the foams, i can get around 4 more packs from the foams.

[Author]

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