V-One S or RS4 3

[HiCh]

After quite a while i saved up enough for a 1/10 gas rc!
yay!
But now comes the difficult choice. Which one? I have narrowed it down to either a KYOSHO V one SII or a Nitro HPI RS4 3. I m dont really care about speed but more into handling and drifting if possiable. Which one would be better, has more hop-ups avaliable? Where would be the best place to run them?

Thanks y all

[peedee]

the hpi is faster and more reliable, wat about the traxxas nitro 4 tec that is a speed king does nearly 100kphs

and dosent hpi have the new pro evo or sumin im not sure the fella down the road has the v one s and its allways breaking sumin (or so he says) neway yea check out http://www.rccaraction.com im sure they have an article on excatly wat ur after

[oldtamiyaphile]

4 tec sucks. It’s a 50 year old design.

Get a HPI over Kyosho because parts are easier to get, and way more options.

[peedee]

yea but the 4tec is still a good car for what he said “speed and drifts” but i also suggested the HPI, and most LHS in aus have a good supply of traxxas, and hpi

[PandaBear]

Quote:

Get a HPI over Kyosho because parts are easier to get…

Depends where you live… you SURE you live in Australia?? :p:shock::p
HPI support is hopeless where I am… :dead:

[peedee]

Panda is correct australia LHS tends to stick wit GV models, Tamiya, Kyosho, simply because they are cheap, and can rip aussie consumers off easily, want my opinion, nitro tc3 http://www.towerhobbies.com

[murph]

HiCh

Tough choice, I own a HPI RS4 SS and have found the car to be very reliable an a lot of fun. It handles well for what it is, a car park racer.

I will say from personal experience be wary of HPI parts supply in OZ (If you live here that is) it’s not good. So I now buy most of my parts overseas which is not a big problem.

The Kyosho is a great car also, but I was concerned about the belt drive thats why I went with the HPI which is shaft drive. There is also new version of the RS4/3 RTR kit called the EVO which brings some of the options from the SS.

The best place locally to buy HPI is http://www.radiomodels.com.au they are Perth based but offer great prices and good service.

[oldtamiyaphile]

I live in Perth and always have trouble getting anything Kyosho, no problem getting HPI parts.

[PandaBear]

OTP:- are your HPI supplies “grey imported” by your LHS, or do they come the offical route?? All the guys here (ie everywhere outside Sydney) that deal with the offical importers get lousy support. 🙁

As for Kyosho… your LHS should get in touch with offical importers Dawn Trading. They’ve come up with the goods everytime, can’t see any problems there for ‘current’ locally-available items. (just not KX-1… :blush:)

all:- as for “problems getting HPI parts”… well, it wouldn’t be as ‘important’ if you’re only casually bashing around and can afford to have your car laid-up broken whilst you import your own parts from overseas.

But if you’re racing them seriously (and once upon a time, HPI’s 200mm Nitro was *the* car to have), this is totally unsatisfactory! :angry:

As a result of all that, I now refuse to buy nor race HPI cars in Australia. I’d rather send my $$ elsewhere, there are better brands out there.

[oldtamiyaphile]

AFIK, both the shops in my area do get their parts from the importer.

I’m sure they get their Kyo stuff from Dawn, it’s just that nothing is ever on the shelf, always have to wait a week or two. Granted, because of this, I haven’t bought a Kyo car in 2 years, so things may have changed. Other problem is once a Kyo goes OOP, forget about parts altogether. That’s why I like Tamiya so, you can still get TA-01 parts…

Maybe the solution is NTC3.

[peedee]

tmaiya is a sweet brand, they arent about the best they are about quality and customer saticfaction

i like the new tnx, u seen that one OTP

[oldtamiyaphile]

The TRFs are pretty much the best, and most companies have one or two good products (eg Traxxas and the Maxx) but the others are more just filling space on shelves.

Tamiya make it all, and while some cars do fall short (most of their nitros), they are the only company that set such a universally high standard, across pretty much all vehicle types.

It’s a shame the planned new buggy has been axed, from what little I could find on it it was looking really nice.

The new 1/18 monster is a must have, I just wish they’d enter the Mini-Z market with a Xmod like car, but with all the bugs fixed. And TRF options of course 😀

[PandaBear]

Quote:

I’m sure they get their Kyo stuff from Dawn, it’s just that nothing is ever on the shelf, always have to wait a week or two. Granted, because of this, I haven’t bought a Kyo car in 2 years, so things may have changed. Other problem is once a Kyo goes OOP, forget about parts altogether.

Dunno… haven’t quite tested that to the extreme, but everything
that we’ve asked for from Dawn has (eventually) arrived. Only bad
thing with Kyosho is that their parts cross-referencing is lousy,
makes it very difficult to check unless one has the car’s manual.

But as for Tamiya… hmm, got a whole heap backordered via TT
which I don’t hold much hope of ever turning up this decade.
That includes every single WW2 sparepart I can think of… :dead:

Quote:

Maybe the solution is NTC3.

Hrrumph. Dawn handles AE… 👿

[oldtamiyaphile]

Can’t understand why you can’t get WW2 parts, most of the car is common with other Tamiyas (as is always the case). For me, if one shop doesn’t have something Tamiya, I drive into the city and get it there.

I’ve never broken anything on my (electric) TC-3, so I was refering to durability rather than parts availability (which seems good…).

But as I said, I don’t own any new Kyo’s.

[PandaBear]

Quote:

Can’t understand why you can’t get WW2 parts, most of the car is common with other Tamiyas (as is always the case).

Oh, it not all the suspension bits shared with TL01/FF02/TB01,
certainly all those would be a no-brainer to source.
(or just snaffle them off a neighbouring TL01/FF02/TB01 :smiley2:)

Its the specialised bits like
-all the itsy bits that make up the WW2 body
-and classic Wild Willy figure!
-chassis spaceframe parts

Ordered these parts right when WW2 came out locally.
My kits were off the first Japan batch (Oct 1999).

Chassis plastics are starting to show some stress fractures
and the shell has taken its fair share of roadrash.
Spares would be nice to have. 🙂

[oldtamiyaphile]

I see, body parts supply has always been iffy.

If you’re Willy is like mine (also one of the first shipment HEHE), the body is fairly beat up by now (I gave it a mid life smoothing and re-paint) and while the wheels are OK, they scratched and cracked at the beads. The underside has a fair few scratches etc.

So what’s my point? Given that replacing the body might cost you $80-120 (once you add the rollbars, figure etc, etc), you may as well buy another $240 kit.

I often buy TL-01’s FF’s etc when they’re on sale for $140 just for the body wheels and tyres, because at that point, I’ve broken even, and get a chassis load of parts free.

[PandaBear]

Quote:

I see, body parts supply has always been iffy.

If you’re Willy is like mine (also one of the first shipment HEHE), the body is fairly beat up by now (I gave it a mid life smoothing and re-paint) and while the wheels are OK, they scratched and cracked at the beads. The underside has a fair few scratches etc.

So what’s my point? Given that replacing the body might cost you $80-120 (once you add the rollbars, figure etc, etc), you may as well buy another $240 kit.

WW2 gets the occasional outing:-

But no, the parts aren’t really for fixing up the runner WW2.
(I ordered them from Day 1 remember?) Thought some of them would
be useful for rejuvenating its older cousins… 🙂

I’ve been running the ‘big’ bumper from new, and even though
WW2 is the usual RC that gets “borrowed” to RC-newbies, its
survived very well – haven’t broken anything major yet.

WW2 last spotted terrorising our nation’s capital… :p

[oldtamiyaphile]

When will people learn that slow can be more fun than fast?

Granted, mine’s powered by a 13t, but it’s only as fast as a silver can 540 HPI RS4MT. That motor is responsibe for most of my body damage HEHE. It’s so funny to drive, pull in the trigger and inching past the MT on my rear wheels! Reminds me of a Sprint Car.

I’ve been meaning to get a new kit (for the body) and build a ‘scale’ version using (maybe) a shortened TA-02 and Cross County Wheels/ Tyres.

[Camshaft]

When I was looking at WW2s, I found a body for it. Was some kind of super deformed buggy, complete with “Fearless Freddy” figure. I can get you guys the details if you want, although I personally prefer the classic Willys styling.

[VR-4]

i would say tc3 its alot better than just about every electric touring car out and the diff omg there so smooth.

schumacher is a good 1 but thats a pro lvl car so i would stick with the tc3 racer kit

[Author]

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