Where 2 get Overland Strengthening parts from?

[emilmh]

Hi,

I jsut got an Overland yesterday 😀 and i want to make sure i dont wear it out or break it! So im after some strengthening parts.

I believe bearings would be a good investment as it reduces the load on the motor and overal gear.

I’ve also heard that the shock mounts crack often 🙁 so would it be recommened to try get some alloy ones of these?

Also what about upgrading the (servo?) gears to ‘delrin’ (i assume thats a stronger, tougher material) or alloy i think ive seen??

Another matter is the diff… is there any upgrades needed for it? (im not even sure if ive seen any?)

and lastly, after runnin it around i feel that the OL has less power/response/torque than my MR01 Mini-z?? yet they have the same stock motor (except my MR01 has bearings which might be why..) but anyway im wondering if upgrading to an ‘iWaver super X Speed motor’ would be a good idea?

Sorry for the n00b questions, and thanks for any help!

[z-beam]

pn’s nm motor is a great upgrade for more power.

have a play with the pinions that come with the set, youll improve response with them…

[emilmh]

yeah i’ve just put on the 9 tooth, but am waiting for batteries to charge so i can try it out. With the PN nm motor, do i need turbos/fet’s??

[Aaron]

The PN S05NM motor is perfectly safe on the stock FETs as long as you don’t overload it too much by locking up the axle and holding the throttle on etc.

We have these motors in stock along with Overland Bearing sets in the shop. In my opinion the bearings and the NM will make the Overland a good fun truck, and the great news is that if you break things we do have spares in stock, and overall haven’t found any particular parts to be ‘must replace with alloy’ unlike the Monsters.

Overlands are mucho cheaper than Monsters in that sense.

A.

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Site Owner Guy.

[emilmh]

thanks, i wonder how the pn s05nm compares to the pn nm motor that z-beam suggested.

What puts me off buying from the store is that from what i can see, i need to buy ‘store credit’ is this right?

otherwise motorwise i’ll prob go for the iwaver super x-speed as i can get it real cheap, and i dont want to push the electronics to much (i’ll be upgrading to lego tyres to and i’ve heard they put extra stress on the electronics/motor)

[z-beam]

nooo! try the so5nm before going with the i-waver motor, in my experience the kyosho x-speed worked great but its more suited to a racer than an overland. the nm motor is perfectly suited to the rugged nature of the overland.

the nm i mentioned is the one and the same pn so5nm. its built specificly for stock fets in the overland. the nm is short for neo magnets which are quite stronger than standard magnets in motors which give it extra kick.

when Aaron said lock up the axle he means holding the tyres so the axle cant spin and using throttle, but really with any car you should do such things as it can cause damage.

no store credit is needed, once you put an order through the checkout the ausmicro banking details will come up, just go to a bank and deposit the cash in manually if you dont have credit card or internet banking facilities.

and as far as strengthening the OL goes, id advise against it. enjoy the beast and treat it with respect but do take it to its limits. ive damaged my OL from doing stupid things like riding ramps at a skate park and doing jumps off gutters. it will take a beating but eventually the stresses will damage it and some of the parts will require replacement.

for most of the damage a carefull aplication of super glue has worked great. but some of the more extreme stunts have required partial rebuilding of internal gears (failure to clean out sand in the gearbox after a 1km beach rally) and thread on the front gearbox (hitting a steel sheet skate ramp at full speed when the bottom had lifted off the flat cement).

carefull with the lego tyres, ive wasted over $60 on lego kits that had the wrong treads for the job. i recently saw some new kits that had some dinosaurs and a truck for a better price than the technic kit that has the right stuff in it.

ive got no problems with running larger tyres than stock and a nm motor under the hood and you wont ether.

whatever you do, dont get the cheap motor, save for some quality product and youll be surprised with the performance youll get out of it.

[Aaron]

The PN S05NM is the same motor as z-beam is using. The SpeedyNM is a Neo magnet (more torque) version of the FET friendly PN Speedy 05 (S05) range.

You don’t need to buy credit, and we can take cash into bank account, do Australia Post COD and Credit Card via Paypal which is integrated into the shap system.

We do offer the Store Credit for people who want the ease of paying with a Money order or large payment when they have cash and then buy using it for a few months. It’s kind of like having a way to buy anythign you want form the store and not needing cash. It works well for peopel who would normally use COD as they save the $8+ fees from Australia Post with each shipment.

I strongly advise using a PN motor over any iWaver motor, the PNs are exceptionally good and the NM is an awesome choice for an Overland where it’s less about speed and more about torque. Not having to do FET mods etc makes things even better.

A.

--
Site Owner Guy.

[emilmh]

thanks guys i really appreciate your indepth advice and knowledge. 🙂

My reason for going withthe iwaver was because of its cheap price (i could get them for $5!!) I honestly think mini-z’s are fast as they are (even though i’ve had two 1/10 cars, one being a modified racing one) i just thought the overlander lacked some torque. I think, i will wait and if i decide to get a new motor will go for the better pn one. Another reason i wanted a cheaper motor is cos my other two brothers have mini-z (racers) to and if i get a fast motor, well it would be unfair, but if it was real cheap they would probably get one to.

With the lego tyres i mentioned, i found some in my little brothers lego! 😛 so its free for me, and they fit, though i havent run the actualy car with them on yet. As they are the same diameter as stock i dont think it would cause too much extra strain gearing wise.

Upon reading your advice i dont think i will upgrade any chassis parts either, though i might look for a spare body cos i cringe everytime i hit something with a new body!!

i wish the OL had lower gearing, i’d love to do some more realisticslow speed rock climbing.

Z-beam, you seem to have fun with your OL! how does it go on the beach? I havent really had the chance to take it off road yet, but im already loving how it can clear small bumps the racer gets stuck on.

[z-beam]

im evil with the OL, wet sand is the best. i would have been heart broken if i misjudged the water though. i wouldnt advise on this though, like i said a total clean out of all the gears afterwards and replacing all parts with stainless steel where possible.

ive even tried to run it on ice (a ramp we built at the snow to do rails) but that was a major dissapointment. ideas of awesome slippage where distroyed when absolutely no traction was possible.

ok, heres the lowdown on the i-waver motors. low price = low quality. ive burnt out the fets in a stock racer using one. that ‘cheap’ motor cost me $50 for a set of new fets to be installed.

was cool for me, i can afford that kind of stuff happening. but i can tell you now, how would you feel if all your cars blew?

the pn gear is quality product, and besides even with a s05nm and the highest end gearing a stock racer is going to allways overtake the overland.

[Author]

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