x mod questioins?

[Jowlz]

hey bruce bruce bruce and bruce!!

since im in merika and have access to a lot more xmod crap than you guys, i figure you may have questions about them that aint been answered anywhere so umm ask.

[merc-blue]

yeh i got one…. how come x-mods are crap…. and slow … etc etc etc… ive had 2 almost kill then thing to make it nearly compeditive with every one else

[dgs73]

and why does it take so much effort just to install the a.w.d./bearings? I’ve got no other major issues with mine ‘cept it could be faster

[merc-blue]

lol hows ur turning circle? with awd its huge so u gotta chuck in resistors…… yeh but DGS you dont have ph2t and his monster to compeate with adn betty with his iwaver (woah nelly and some top motor)

[dgs73]

oddly enough it slides its rear when turnig left, so about 2 foot, which is still big. Turning right is closer to 3 feet… the Canberra meet up will sort the drivers from the hobbyists… no Xmod going to be with me though… my Zs are heaps quicker

[merc-blue]

do the resistor mod u get like a 20cm turning circle

[Jowlz]

awd sucks. at least with the stock drive shaft. rwd with the ball diff is nice. ill take most z’s i bet.

[jamiekulhanek]

g’day bill!! I got my xmod yesterday, ran it for about 5 minutes and decided…..it stinks…..it was like driving a 1.0 BCG.

So i removed that brass pinion (a bit of heat from a butane torch makes it slide off easily) and threw an x speed with neo magnets in it….the car is a lot more fun now but battery life is quite short compared to a Z. Speed is a bit faster than a stock motor with 9 teeth, but acceleration is like a stock with 6 teeth. The turning radius is a bit big.

I asked you a question in a PM over in bitpimps.

BTW I couldn’t quite figure out how to do the mod in the “Fuck your driveshaft in the ear” thread on bitpimps……

[merc-blue]

yeh jamie i told u they needed modding. put in some fets 6 cells and the resistors and then you will be getting some speed if you want to know about mounting 6 cells dont do it like they do on all them yank sites do it the aussie way.. PM me or email me

[merc-blue]

hey yank. i need some help with the peice of USA trash they call a xmod.. its got 6 cell 2x fet stacks awd with resistor mod.. stage 2 motor (there exactly same as a x speed) with 9T im going for 12 or 13T soon and a plasma dash but besides that wat can i do

[Jowlz]

get rid of the drive shaft somehow. shave some weight. epoxy the front knuckle screws in before you lose them.

im getting my iwaver soon and may stop liking the xmod once i hop it up but the mmod is tight as hell right now and my turning radius is fine. awd your radius is horrible.

[dgs73]

that drive shaft is only necessary if running the a.w.d… and damn its a heavy little bugger! Carbon fibre myight do its job will I think. I was thinking that those two whitish plates on top front and rear were not necessary either… Jowlz; how much more crap can you remove to save weight?

[Jowlz]

well tinyrc sells this
http://tinyrc.com/shop/product.php?pid=594

but sg219 has the carbon top plates which on the front i see no purpose but the rear one keeps everything stiff so it would have to be drilled or replaced with a carbon piece. maybe just cuz i dont have a z to compare yet tho, but my xmod is a pretty good blend of fast and control. im happy wnhen the damn thing doesnt break.

[dgs73]

would’nt mind sourcing some of those thin aluminium front and rear plates… you seen em Jowlz? Funky anodized stuff, with the Honda logo or spider web and a few other options… More for looks though than purpose I feel

[Jowlz]

ya. the alloy that i need is the knuckles. i saw them once and cant find them again. seriously tho it goes straight and fast. very fast compared to stock. iwaver electronics in an xmod chassis may be cool. i have an extra chassis. maybe thatl be a project pretty soon.

but again the upgrades you want to get:

bearings of course

lights cuz they are 5bucks and work well.

awd kit for the ball diff.

i like the body kit 800% more than i figured i would. i aint into it for the looks really. the replacment wheel for the tx is nicer as well.

stage 2 motors unless you wana run z motors. thanks for the torch tip bruce!! youll make a buncha yanks happy. if you want please post a small tutorial here or a bitpimps. you deserve credit for comin up with that.

the spring kit is worth it to.

foam tire kit = steve irwin

seriously tho glue or epoxy the lower knuckle screws in. you will thank me later. i imagine z bodies would make it faster since they are a lot lighter.

and yes their pcbs will take at least 6cells but i know br2ce says that they will take a nelly turbo.

Edited by – Jowlz on 09 June 2004 13:47:15

[merc-blue]

yeh jowlz… teh resistor mod fixes up the turning circle once got AWD.. im putting in a hollow alu drive shaft. it needs to be faster though 6 cells and fetts arent enought these days

[dgs73]

got most of the upgrades you list; bearnigs, a.w.d., body kit (that Sparco wheel is heaps better), spring/tierod set, tyre set. Will be Loktiting the knuckles in tonight. I guess you’re saying the foam tyre set is crap? Was’nt sure but figured seeings you mentioned Steve Irwin… well… as for the light set, got one coming soon. The body would be heaps lighter if there was’nt a dozen screws holding all the body parts on… anyone tried glueing them in instead? Merc; where you getting the hollow drive shaft?

[merc-blue]

DGS.. im making it its as pie basicaly get a a alu tube the rite thickness from ur LHS then cut it to leng and file off the little bits …
its preferabel if u put a snugly fitting rod down the middle first so it doesnt warp when you file it an cut it and stuff

[Jowlz]

Quote:

Will be Loktiting the knuckles in tonight.

no no dude. loctite destroyed a set of those things. use epoxy!!! jbweld!!!

[dgs73]

noted… thankz Jowlz… did’nt get around to it last night in the end, but have epoxy here at work… may have to confiscate it tonight…

[jamiekulhanek]

Quote:

DGS.. im making it its as pie basicaly get a a alu tube the rite thickness from ur LHS then cut it to leng and file off the little bits …

And who told you that???? HEHE, can you send me a couple of shafts (cut to length, but not filed) as my LHS’s are all sold out of 3mm Alu tube.

[chino]

xmods do suck when u first get it. heres a trick. swich IC5 into a steering fet. more torque. or do a fet upgrade like a mini z. awd, i recomend useing 2 gear diffs. pn so3 great motor for xmod. slick floors, mini zs dont hav a chance. all my frens have Zs. theyre great cars but have theyre limits. expensive to fix or modify. stock for stock. Zs are better. xmods hav more potential than u guys think. we also hav this thing kalled a reg mod, it installs a 5v voltage regulater to tha main ic so it wont burn with added voltage. run it tha most 30v w/o burning tha board.

if u hav an xmods, check out this site http://www.xmodrc.com
tha atomicmods site has lion cell for u Z lover aswell

[jamiekulhanek]

Yeah i agree, while the xmod is not a hobby grade r/c (close but no cigar) it doesnt mean that it hasnt got potential, the awd is a major plus for this car, but the xmod upgrades are just too tame. The simple propo is actually quite smooth on a track, and compared to a z, the difference is hard to notice. My major gripe with this car is the rear suspension, the camber changes with suspension action, limiting grip. The fornt suspension is a good design, if only they had made the rear the same.

I can see in the future, different classes of racing, awd, rwd, fwd in different divisions something that the Z can’t do.

The aftermarket hopups are popping up everywhere, making the Xmod more competitive and generating momentum in the racing fraternity.

Personally I was impressed with the Xmod out of the box, yet the power output is pathetic, i had a hard time trying to wheelspin and oversteer round corners. A motor swap to an X speed helped this, but still, there aint enough power.

FET modding these is a waste of time, a 3×2 stack is the maximum, you even have to chop out the bottom of the chassis to do it!

A FET board is a must, so i ordered a whoa nelly 1.1, and i’m putting in my old mate plasma dash.

With the extra power, it should be good!

[chino]

wut kind of fets are u using. i use 2×2 of SI4562DYs works way better than a 6×2 of IRF7389s.
but that whoe nelly would work better.

motor im useing a modified plasma dash with
ballbarings , cus tha stock bushings SUCK
neodyniums
large comm
37 turn armature
http://img17.photobucket.com/albums/v51/chino925/motors/PD_plasma_dash.jpg

u guys should really try mixing pinions and bevels. wht bevel with a 10-11 tooth pinion works great. use cut off from tha end of a pen’s ink tube for spacers to raise the motor mount. place under mount around screw.

also u should try a drive train breakin.
mount a crap motor
hook up direct power from a type of power supply
make sure the motor is not hooked up to tha car
while it runing lube it (i like to use silicon lubricant spray)
let it run over night

after it should roll like silk w/o a motor installed. this makes it easier for tha motor to push the car.

[jamiekulhanek]

Why did you wind the plasma dash to 37t??

[merc-blue]

yeh mine rolls real nice after give my bearings jamies treatment and graphiting everything else it rolls real nice

[jamiekulhanek]

Not running any aftermarket FETs still stock!

[chino]

had to go back up to a 37t before i got my fet upgrade. right after i did a 2×2 stack it ran much better. i really liked the way it proformed (spinning all 4 tires w/o spinning out is kool) so didnt wannah change it jus yet. long gears of an xmod well suits it(torque). i will eventually bring it(the turns) back down cus my SI4562DYs dont event get hot.

one of tha fastest motors ive made is a cutom
pyrimid wound
19turn 180
180 can
180 armature
130 end bell
130 brushes
130 comm
neos/bb (opional)

. its tha motor i make for racers out here usein mrs4s xmods and minizs but for z users i have to make the motor a tad shorter since they kant used full size cus if the sideways mounting. Zs dont do well with too much torque anyway so it all works out. the armature legs are more than twice the size of a normal 130 arm.

pics here, i kall hulk. reasons cuz 1. i jus watched the movie 2, it size 3. most of tha parts jus happened to be green
page 2 also has more pics of it
http://img17.photobucket.com/albums/v51/chino925/motors/

btw. grease filled diffs are kool for xmods and Zs run great with overland rims and tires for the rear

[Author]

Posts