Batt and motor limits

[Lazboy]

While at dick smiths i saw 1/4 AAA 6v batts and 1/4 AAA 9v batts so that would be like a 5 cell bit and a 7.5 cell bit so do you think this would blow the engine or would it work fine the only bad thing about the batts is that they are alikines not recharges

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[Shypo]

i think the motor would blow as some people have had problems with a 2 cell blowing a 3.2 motor

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[jamiekulhanek]

hehehe, those teeny alkalines have many cells inside them, and they have such high an internal resistance, that the voltage would drop and you would have a very slow car indeed.

The world is mine

[micro_Amps]

Quote:

the only bad thing about the batts is that they are alikines not recharges

So you have never tried recharging alkaline batteries, why:question:…because the pack tells you not to:shock:…you might be pleasantly surprised 🙂
:smiley2:uA

[Shypo]

so you are saying you can recharge Alkalines?

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[micro_Amps]

Yep.:)duracells can be, energisers are probably the same too. They charge up to about 2/3 of the previous charge. So if you got 10 hours out of a new battery, then charged it, youd get about 6 hours the next time, four hours the next time, maybe two hours the next time….. then youd thro them away.

:clown:uA

[Lazboy]

Interesting about the rechargeing alks but will any one test the motors to see how much voltage they can whitstand??

Also would say a 1.0 be a motor designed for a higher voltage but beause the bit only gives out 1.2 volts it goes slower or is it just made diffrently??

CompactChar-G 40Mhz S2000 range mod, spring suppention
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[micro_Amps]

Most likely designed differently ( I havent checked yet) The 1.0 would take more voltage because it probably has a higher resistance. A 3.8 would have less windings of thicker wire inside and would therefore have less tolerance to having more current shoved down its throat by increasing the voltage. I intend to test a couple of motors to destruction (and rewind them??), but I want to get a proper lab power supply first so I can properly record the results. Give me a couple of days…watch this space.
uA :question::question::question:

[jamiekulhanek]

It may also have something to do with the timing of the motor.

The world is mine

[micro_Amps]

What exactly do you mean by “timing”
:question::question:uA

[Lazboy]

would the motor be able to take more voltage when running free ( no load ) than when it is running a car around??

CompactChar-G 40Mhz S2000 range mod, spring suppention
Bit Char-G 57mhz Booster Fairlady Z

[micro_Amps]

Yes…kind of. At a given voltage, the more loaded the motor is (meaning the slower it spins) the less back emf is produced. Less back emf will allow a higher effective voltage accross the motor resulting in higher armature current and higher risk of burning out.
The two extremes are….
1. High voltage, no load – motor spins quickly and uses very little current – little risk of buning out.
2. High voltage, high load – motor slow or stopped and draws higher current. This is the highest risk of burning motor out.
The guys that are ‘multi cell’ing their bits should be careful not to drive the car with the rear wheels locked, either by holding them or stopped against an object head on. This causes high ‘locked rotor’ current and this is when the chances of motor burn out is highest if the battery voltage is too high for the motor.

Hope that makes some sense
:)uA

[Lazboy]

thanks does any one know if a 2.4v 1/4 AAA recharg batt is avilable coz that would rule

CompactChar-G 40Mhz S2000 range mod, spring suppention
Bit Char-G 57mhz Booster Fairlady Z

[mastercool bowker]

The 2 cells can blow 3.2’s because they have sh*ty reliability

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Eat right,exersize…die anyway!

[HACHI-RYOKU]

From what I’ve read on other forums, people have put up to 12 volts through the tiny motors. It killed the motor rapidly, but other sources say they’ve put around 9 volts through them with no problem. The next question of course would be the amps. MicroAmps might need to correct me on this, but I think Voltage and current work with other aspecs to bring the value of “wattage”, witch would be the most aplicable measurement of how much punishment the motors can take. So the question may not be about volts or current individualy, although I’m sure they both have a maximum value that’s capable of being pushed through the motors. It may be a question of watts, witch is a value calculated with volts, current and some other stuff.
I use perfection 3.8’s, 4.2pros, and 4.2kings. I mainly run with dual cells w/ fet modded boards and 3:1 gears. I’ve only replaced 1 x 3.8 in the last 6 months. I run the cars an average of once a week for about 2~4 hours.

Edited by – HACHI-RYOKU on 23 December 2003 20:23:51

[trash]

I was wondering where this thread came from.. I hadn’t noticed it. But looking at the dates in the header. jan 2003.

What we need to do is get all the different colour and style motors and destruction test them.
👿
Well maybe not destroy them all, just one…
but run them all through a standard dyno type test.

Voltage / Current / Load / RPM type graph.

I can think of a way of making a tiny brake dyno
that can put a standard load on the motor.

After knowing this data on a graph it would take the guess work out of the motors. probably take some of the fun out too. 🙂

[HACHI-RYOKU]

Someone already made a pretty nice chart with many motors. I haven’t seen anybody refer to it so I was wondering if it’s coshier or not. I know some of the pros know what I’m refering to. Is it ok to post that stuff here? It’s from another forum. And I know some forums don’t get along, and don’t appreciate certain other forums info being posted on theirs. If it’s ok, then I’ll post it myself. If not, then I understand.

[z-beam]

no problems on this site hachi, we are freindly intelegent evolved humans here. no nazi dictators rule this site.:shock:

[ph2t]

post it man, fuck ’em!

ph2t.

[HACHI-RYOKU]

OOII. I’ll do it as soon as I get a little more time.

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