micro rs4?

[me and me lude]

is this unpopular?

Epoch Indoor Racer: Legacy B4 (Spec-2)
DigiQ-R: NSX-R

Edited by – Aaron on 15 January 2003 07:52:32

• This topic was modified 9 years, 3 months ago by Aaron.

[Shypo]

these are quite popular but very expensive to run and mantian, very cool things though

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[PandaBear]

HPI mRS4 appeals more to the existing RC crowd, as it needs to be built from kit and RC gear installed. Newbies who can’t be bothered building go straight for the MiniZ Kyosho instead.

Although yes an RTR version of mRS4 is now available, pricewise its as much as a entry-level 1/10 car so there’s not much advantage on price.

Dunno why ppl say its expensive to run… not much more than a MiniZ I’d say.

Design-wise the mRS4 is fantastic. It handles well with its 4WD, chassis is very adjustable including twin diffs and it is also adjustable for wheelbase and width. Larger 1/18th size makes it able to accept ‘normal’ radio gear, so if you’re a RCist already you can recycle all your older gear. Heaps of hopup options available, from suspension to motors and batteries.

[b_drift]

they are only unpopular if your local hobby store does not back it.

as far as cost, it is more expensive than a mini-z (just because of electronics) and almost as expensive as a 1/10th scale.

the crappy part is that is you put a mod motor into a stock car, you will break things without even crashing, so you need to add some hopups to the base price just to have a car the will run and not break. (referring to the weak planetary front diff)

i love my micro. but haven’t raced in a long time. nobody makes a motor fast enough for them to be undriveable yet. (speed 300s are slow with a properly setup chassis)

b

[PandaBear]

Quote:

the crappy part is that is you put a mod motor into a stock car, you will break things without even crashing, so you need to add some hopups to the base price just to have a car the will run and not break. (referring to the weak planetary front diff)

What breaks? The 2-pin interface or the actual body inside the purple tube?

Overheard a LHS fella (the one who knows what he’s talking about, rare but they still exist!!) last week tell a customer (buying diff sprue) to glue the diff casing together with rubber glue. The structural integrity should help its longetivity.

[b_drift]

hey panda, its been a long time.

yeah, the 2 plastic tabs on the outdrive of the front diff is the biggest problem with the front, even with stock setups. not sure if anything can help that without binding. the other problem is the plastic teeth on the gears inside getting stripped with bigger motors and weak spring tension holding the 2 tiny metal gears in the middle. hey, what is diff sprue? i am not sure how gluing the diff casing together will help anything. anyways, if a person buys a micro, the recommended(personal minimum) upgrades are front diff, steel dogbones, battery pack, soft tires.

laters b

[PandaBear]

Quote:

…hey, what is diff sprue?…

Sprue is the thing the bits come on, y’know the molding rack that you have to cut the bits off from.

[PandaBear]

Methinks Micro’s plastic could do with a boiling… boil the plastic bits in a large pot of water for a few minutes, it stress relieves them and makes it a bit more flexible.

I made mRS4 soup when I built mine but heck, haven’t had time to even play with it yet. :blush:

[b_drift]

yeah, it could help with making the ends stronger for a stock motor, but a mod or big block will rip them off no matter what.

oohh. sprue = parts tree. i thought sprue was a medical condition.

yeah, i raced mine for 3 races at the LHS and got bored after that. especially when they messed up by how much i won by each time and said i couldn’t even try to run my new brushless setup or go with 8 cells. big block + cells = slow. july 27, aug 10, aug 24.
http://www.formula1-rc.com/ofra/Schedule2002.asp

[VR-4]

big block + cells = slow? what are you on? i got a big block a keyence zero extreme with 2 ofna power bricks and nothing can touch it as for the orion big block its the fastest most powerfull motor out for a micro.

i use the ratzas rat racer chassy and i can run 6 3000mha cells in a saddle pack

the big block is far from slow. you either got a messed up big block or dident take time ta brake it in and if you dident brake it in i have no pitty for you and your slow running motor.

[peedee]

the guy at my lhs said that the mini-r by model engines australia is a faster stock than the micro but if you are after mods the micro rs4 is the way to go.

[VR-4]

micro rs4 and the mini z coust about the same give or take $30 and there about the same amount of up keep there just alot more parts out for the micro rs4 than the z thats why people think they coust more.

micro rs4 $99
Hitec aggressor with 2 servos $40
novak spy esc $20

and it runs for around $160 and mini z coust about $140 so it depends on what stuff you get and whare you get it. but i sold a micro rs4 ofna power brok orion big block hardcore racing titanum pro chassy hpi ball diff front 1 way diff and harden steel dog bones for $50 “needed $50 more for my new esc for my 1/10th”

[Author]

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