moment of silence for my bit

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    • #10070
      Project-X
      Participant
      • Posts: 55

      i knew that this day would come, and that day was yesturday…..sigh….. when i opened up my bit’s pc board to adjust the anntena, my screw driver got tangled with one of the steering coils and got detatched from the borad. Now……….my bit can’t turn, i tried to save it but “she” didn’t make it. im gonna go buy another one for sure, but i dunno which one to get, does anyone have any suggestions? i was thinking of getting the 4 band controller and a 57 mhz booster machine (btw i still dunno clearly wut those r for), and putting the cell from my first bit into my new one to make a dual cell. does the booster set come with everything i need to build a new bit? and can i do mads on those too(like the dual cell mod)?

    • #37171
      Admin
      Participant
      • Posts: 5952

      are u sure u can’t salvage it? if it’s just a steering wire you can solder it back on. theres a digrame of which wires go to which corresponding solder points on the technical feastures section. if all that happened was the steering wire i don’t think it’s dead yet. maybe u soldered the wires at the incorrect points. but if ur thinking of a booster then u can buy a 57 mhz fairladyz from toyeast.com(comes with it’s own controller) my booster is awesome, it has a range of over 20feet outdoors without any mods. it is also slightly faster then my other bits when you boost. then there is also the 27 mhz booster automodellista set, i don’t have that one though. and the last way to get a booster that i know of is to buy the 35mhz or 45 mhz booster set…but for those two you need to buy the four band cause they don’t come with a controller…so it might be a bit pricier then the other above options. the fairzlady is the cheapest way to go, and yes you can go mad on the booster sets and make duals out of them.

    • #39377
      Admin
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      • Posts: 5952

      also…have you ever visited tinyrc.com ? that place is a bit livelier then this forum so you might get more responses faster when you post there.

    • #37168
      DaveF
      Participant
      • Posts: 1038

      Track down the scematics of the PCB, also track down the photos. I think one or both can be found here,if not them try QMF and TinyRC. You should be able to fix it, or find someone with some electronic knowledge who can (once armed with the schematics or PCB photos).

      The name booster is a bit deceptive, it’s more of a choke. When the boost button is pressed the car runs at full speed for the motor, same as normal sets do all the time. When the button isn’t pressed, the motor runs at half speed, so a 2.2 motor runs like a 1.1 motor (not that one exists). You don’t get extra speed from these sets, just an extra step of speed control.

      The 4 band controllers have a 3 way switch on them allowing for non booster sets, booster sets with the button to control boost, and booster set with constant boost.

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    • #39847
      GT-ahh
      Participant
      • Posts: 774

      you will need to remove the enamel insulation by scraping the steering wire with a knife/needle file or my burning it off with a cigarette lighter, for the sttering wires to solder properly.

      http://www21.brinkster.com/gtahh/
      custom shells, mods and tips

    • #39850
      z-beam
      Participant
      • Posts: 2265
      Quote:
      also…have you ever visited tinyrc.com ? that place is a bit livelier then this forum so you might get more responses faster when you post there.

      BAR YOU NEWCOMER,go home to the “lively place” and stop bagging us .

    • #37117
      Shypo
      Participant
      • Posts: 2339

      tiny-rc is more lievly becos it has about 10,000 more members and the times are reversed, when Project-X is posting it was 2am here, thats y he didnt get a fast response.

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    • #37124
      GT-ahh
      Participant
      • Posts: 774

      yeah but tinyrc has a tendency to be overrun with crap answers….
      quality not quantity. :D:D:D:D

      http://www21.brinkster.com/gtahh/
      custom shells, mods and tips

    • #37126
      z-beam
      Participant
      • Posts: 2265

      exactly,

    • #37130
      Shypo
      Participant
      • Posts: 2339

      there are heaps and heaps of R/c sites, this is the only decent australian based forum site and we love it, we have a pretty tight knit community and we answer things as soon as we know what the answer is.

      nuf said back on to the topic.

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    • #37068
      Barrelll
      Participant
      • Posts: 675

      about the booster, im disagreeing with dave.

      The booster DOES go faster than a normal car in boost mode.

      For example, a 2.2 in a booster car without boost will go about the speed of a 1.6, and when boost is on it goes upto about the speed of a 2.6 motor…

      Other people with boosters, what do you think ?

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    • #36916
      GT-ahh
      Participant
      • Posts: 774

      a booster is faster than a normal bit due to the different circuit.

      http://www21.brinkster.com/gtahh/
      custom shells, mods and tips

    • #36904
      Project-X
      Participant
      • Posts: 55

      so….for my next bit, should i get a booster machine set with the 4 band controller or a normal bit with a 2.6 motor? and if i get a booster machine, how would i make it go into boost with the 4 band controller? does have a butoon for that?

    • #36851
      z-beam
      Participant
      • Posts: 2265

      oh yeah! and you can switch the controller into 2 extra modes/frequency. a is for standard bits and clones, b is for boost and c is for constant.

      c channel allows you to race a booster at full pace without using the boost button, i still havn’t broken wipeout airbrake programing in my head yet (thinkin boost is brake).

      booster machine sets are the way to go, i’ll never regret getting the controller and chassis ever.

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