wildthing

[wildthing]

indeed it was a bit of work….. hehehe

I am still searching for a small ESC for this size… so someday I will update this thread with more “compe***ively” configured hacked Iwaver to match a mini Z (MR03).

[wildthing]

^^ you can not use the stock electronics (PCB) of iwaver with 2 lipo configured 2S (series) because it will produce a voltage higher than what the board can handle and eventually will burn the board.

but you can use 2 lipo if configured 2P (parallel).

[wildthing]

Atomic mods’ version of a 53kph miniZ (MR02):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y6ywHxzw3-I
Mini-Z AtomicBuilt Manhattan V2.0
http://www.atomicmods.com/Products/Mini-Z-AtomicBuilt-Manhattan-V20__10990.aspx

at a staggering cost of US$799.99 (nearly 4 times my cost)

[wildthing]

Modified switch position

Tamiya TEU104BK ESC – with “built-in” DIY voltage regulator


the voltage regulator is a 7806 IC with two electrolytic capacitors

The cost of my Iwaver upgrade was about AUS$250:

1 pc – 2mm x 12mm hex bolt (any 2mm bolt should work) for the servo arm – AUS$0.46
1 pc – Towerpro micro servo 9gm – AUS$12.50 (bought from seller in my country)
2 pcs – Lithium Ion Batteries, 3.3v 600mAh (from a laptop battery repair/seller shop) – AUS$14.00 each
2 pairs – micro plugs (from an electronic shop) – AUS$ 0.16 each pair
1 set – DIY 6v power regulator (7806, 2 electrolytic capacitors from electronic shop) – about AUS$ 3.00
1 pc – Tamiya TEU104BK ESC (from local reseller) – AUS$ 40.00
1 set – Generic 2.4Ghz controllers from seller in singapore – AUS$ 160.00
1 pc – Tamiya Plasma Dash motor for mini4WD – AUS$ 11.00

The controller was the most expensive… BUT I have come across already of an option that is about US$ 20.00 only (freight cost will probably be another US$ 10.00). So if this work out, the “upgrade cost” is only about AUS$ 132.00

The Iwaver 01 I got was around US$ 60.00 (including shipping). So the actual total project cost was around AUS$ 330.00

However, if could get the Iwaver in wholesale, the Iwaver 01 will cost US$ 20.00 less … so it could go down around AUS$ 300.00

And if I could get the cheaper 2.4Ghz… then the whole thing could be as low as AUS$ 190.00

[wildthing]

Details and images of my modified Iwaver 01:

Version 1.0

Version 1.1

Details of version 1.1:

Battery – 2S configuration with balance wires

DIY Adapter plates for the ESC and Receiver (I don’t want to destroy yet the stock battery and electronic mount)

[wildthing]

Anyway, I had my Iwaver modified (more permanent this time) – as mentioned above, I used a Tamiya TEU104BK ESC, DIY 6v power regulator for the receiver & servo, 2.4Ghz controllers, Towerpro 9gm Micro Servo, DIY servo arm, Lithium Ion Batteries 7.2v 600mAh:

Setup 1) Stock motor, T8 pinion gear – top speed runs 31 to 32kph
YOUTUBE VIDEO LINK – http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eiWEfh2a_Kw

Setup 2) Plasma Dash motor (pang mini4WD), T6 pinion gear (smallest available) – top speed runs 40 to 41kph
YOUTUBE VIDEO LINK – http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=74gF0sns6Yg

Setup 3) Plasma Dash motor, T8 pinion gear – top speed runs 51 to 53kph
YOUTUBE VIDEO LINK – http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=asdhiYWyYJ4

T8 is not yet the largest … I still have a T9 but the motor bracket was broken so I could not use it.

BTW, the Plasma Dash runs a bit hot (but my esc can handle it)… maybe an upgrade to a metal (aluminum) motor mount is needed if this will be used permanently.

[wildthing]

betty.k,

I was trying to “avoid” that option … huhuhu… 🙂

okay, if my DIY don’t go well, I’ll fire up my paypal…. :gatlin: :smiley15:

[wildthing]

How do you cut those CF? I have 2mm thick “scrap” CF that will fit the project, but I am running out of patience in cutting it to size (with my hack saw and dremmel). It is quite tough! Any tip would gladly be appreciated.

Right now, I am eyeing on a rectangular tube PVC or a U-channel aluminium – both are easier to cut. The PVC have the same thickness and “flexibility” as the stock Iwaver chassis plate. If I cut one of the wider sides to turn it into a short U-channel, it could the right material. The U-channel shape will make it tougher on the main body, but the rear will be more flexible (like the stock chassis) because I will the remove the U-channel shape on that end to accommodate the motor mount. The sides can also be modified to accomodate the body mount lock mechanism and double as a battery holder.

short U-channel shape image

The short U-channel aluminum that I have also looks good and light, but if I go this way, I might loose the flexibility on the rear wheels even if I trim the U-channel shape on the rear to accomodate the stock motor mount.

I will have to convert the set-up into like the MR02 chassis to have a rear suspension.

But if convert the rear into like the MR02 chassis suspension style, I will have to replace the motor mount and add dampers/springs too.

[wildthing]

I’ll probably change the ESC to an MC230CR or MC330CR… they’re “low cost”, have smaller dimension than the TEU, can also handle lipo/liIo, can handle the power requirement of a Plasma Dash motor and most importantly have a 5V BEC incorporated.

I also found a smaller LiIo battery that weighs less than half of what I have currently installed (but will be around 180mAh only) even on a 2S1P configuration. 🙂

[wildthing]

yup… indeed it looks very fragile… I hope to “redo” a customized plate chassis that could handle the set-up better.

will update this thread soon as I have done the changes. 🙂

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