Blue metal flake Celica(plus a How To)
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- This topic has 11 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated 21 years, 11 months ago by
ib311.
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March 6, 2003 at 10:09 am #9833
One good friend asked me for a metal flake paintjob on his new Celica! He wasn’t fun of big mods as he race his car a lot and he wanted a good paintjob with low cost. So I agreed and started this ‘project’ with a good paintjob as the main goal and some small bodymods if needed…Since I took many pics for him I decided that I could post a small how to for everyone interested.
1. First step was masking the windows and front and rear lights. Tamiya masking tape was used and exacto blade for the cutting. One good tip here is before painting use something likw a qtip and press the outline of windows,lights e.t.c. so paint don’t go through the tape. Then I shoot a first coat of a flat blue from a spray can. I didn’t used a primer because with a flat basecoat no primer needed. Here is a pic with the progress so far.
2. Now the second step was spraying some metal flake paint for the trick result! But this goal isn’t so easy. Since I had a special mix I use on so diecast customs I used it but you can use any spray can that has paint with metal flakes(or any other effect i.e. pearl!). My mix contained blue metal flake paint from a spray can, Humbrol 52 blue enamel paint blus a bit of another blue from a spray can. Now take a look at the result…
3. Well yes it doesn’t look that good and there is a special reason about that it was because I used my special mix. If you used any kind of other paint skip the next sentence. Get some kind of paint thiner(Humbrol is my choice here) or some white spirit and gentle rub it on the paint with a piece of cloth for a moment. Then spray a good coat of clear use whatever clear you want but I suggest to be the same brand as your top paint coat. After it is dry spray a second one and if you see it’s neccesary a third one. Clear coat is neccesary read bellow. Well let’s see how good it looks.
Well that’s it for now. THe next part will be detailing and some simple mods until then here is a pic of it close to finish.(The pic is pretty crap and don’t show the beautiful color good,also the glass looks foggy…But it’s the lighting I guess. It looks awesome in person)
Here are some genral tips for painting that aply in every paintjob and specially in the above:
1.If you use spray cans always keep them warm. Before painting warm it around 5 min. in warm water and then shake it very well for about a min. This way you are going to have great thin and even coats.
2.Spray from a good distance and with slow moves.
3.Always spray the paint on the .outside of a bit.THE BIT BODYS ARE PAINTED FROM THE OUTSIDE NOT THE INSIDE.Even TOMY does it why you shouldn’t? The only way to keep your paintjob free of scratches e.t.c. is to clear coat in the end 2 or even 3 times.
4.If you want to tint the windows do it from the INSIDE and remeber to use the correct paint.
I hope this helps everyone around sorry for the crapy pics the car looks ten times better in person the second part will be far more interesting with good detailing and2 nice mods. Many tips in this post use them if you want they work perfect…
C.U soon…
P.S: Here is a pic of the other car in the body set.Small details and a bit of lowering. He is considering a wide body mod. If we settle that wait for a good tutorial on bodykitting…
Sorry for the big post hope it worth it…
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March 6, 2003 at 11:33 am #39887
MythosGR –
Can you contact me please? I have an important question for you.
ty!
mini RC magic
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March 6, 2003 at 12:13 pm #39886
nice paint job! although where you paint the body. top side or under side really should depend on the material that your painting… lexan-bottom of car… plastic resin – top of car…
im thinking of doing my next paint job, candy apple green… a candy apple green and white VW bus..:D
Custom bodys: Ferari 250 GTO, 69 doge charger, Micro Cooper, Beemer 320i Turbo, Chevy PU, Hondai Tiberon Rally, Doge Intreped NASCAR, Porche 911
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March 6, 2003 at 1:20 pm #39879
Nice little tutorial. Nice finish too. I’m not overly fond of the metal flake paint, as it seems so out of scale for the car – it’s like sticking silver coins to your 1:1 car, but both cars look good as an end result. Well done.
I think even the clear bodies look wrong when painted from the inside.
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DaveF! 👿
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March 6, 2003 at 1:25 pm #39878
yea i tried painting a clear tomy body from the bottom to see what it would look like.. it sucked. the plastic is to thick, so the paint looks goofy. ya need thinn plastic like the larger 1/10 scale bodys to paint the underside and it look good.
Custom bodys: Ferari 250 GTO, 69 doge charger, Micro Cooper, Beemer 320i Turbo, Chevy PU, Hondai Tiberon Rally, Doge Intreped NASCAR, Porche 911
email: custombitbodys@attbi.com
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March 6, 2003 at 3:23 pm #39875
Dave it looks pretty good in person…(you have a point about the flake effect and the scale!)
Spanky yes it depends on the material but since I was talking about bit bodies I said always from outside…
And for candy apple just a hint…paint it over a base coat of the best silver paint you can find!
P.S:What VW bus?HW or Matchbox?
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March 6, 2003 at 8:59 pm #38272
holy crap that is PIMP, wish BCG made impalas:smiley16:
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March 6, 2003 at 9:31 pm #38284
Nice work Mythos, will use some of your tips next paint job I do, because my paint jobs don’t look as good as yours:blush:
Impreza :smiley16:
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March 6, 2003 at 10:34 pm #38293
did u use reagular masking tape or liquid mask Mythos?
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March 7, 2003 at 2:21 am #38305
Tamiya masking tape…
Regular masking tape you will find it in most stores!Just do the tip I mentioned and will work better than any liquid mask! -
March 7, 2003 at 2:51 am #38311
ok thanks for that man, i was gonna sue liquid mask but decided agasint, older maskin tape sux tho lol
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March 7, 2003 at 2:57 am #38312
i use like 5 yr old masking tape..it has a tendancy not to stick to anything…..
http://www21.brinkster.com/gtahh/
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