Snap on body kits for the bitcharg
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- This topic has 14 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 21 years, 6 months ago by ekwj.
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April 7, 2003 at 9:33 pm #11547
Tomy should have made official snap on body kits for the bitcharg.. that way everybody’s bit would look different and also that would save us a lot of time in using putty to make the kits….
The sky is the limit! |ekR34|
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April 7, 2003 at 10:50 pm #34613
yeh i guess, but its alot more fun doing it all yourself, theres plenty of things out there you can chuck onto your bit char-g, just look 😀
27MHZ 3.5 Honda Accord (Custom Exhaust and F1 Wing)
35MHZ 1.0 Battery Modded Castrol Supra
45MHZ 2.2 Custom Painted Yellow and Black WRX
57MHZ 2.6 Booster Trueno
Mini Z Blue WRX (Lights, Gold alloys, Exhaust)
Mini Z Castrol Supra + all mods (Coming) -
April 7, 2003 at 11:21 pm #34610
i like doing it myself because when i finish it i feel like i have accomplished something instead of using something mass produced
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April 8, 2003 at 5:59 am #34603
yea maybe… but with things that are soooo small… it’s really hard make but then again.. seeing all the ones made at the original tomy bit charg site.. if you could do something as good as that, it would be a real accomplishment… hehe something to be glad about! 🙂
The sky is the limit! |ekR34|
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April 8, 2003 at 6:14 am #34604
i still have to learn how to to make it out of putty, and where to get putty.
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April 8, 2003 at 11:25 pm #34566
Project X: you can get putty from the local Hobby shop
its not that hard to make. u’d be surprised ekwj.. i have made several Bodkytkitted cars and it wasnt hard at all aswell as a couple of Custom cars.
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April 9, 2003 at 9:37 am #34582
Has anyone made a body from scratch? I would like to make one but i am not sure what to do.
jord
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April 9, 2003 at 4:35 pm #34538
Making a shell from scratch out of puty would be worthless, making it out of lexan or resin is the best way,lots of people make there own shells from scratch.
the best and pretty much only way to do it is with a vacumold or if ou hav the right tools and expertise to make lexan shells with casts and moulds. vacu forming is the easiest way—-
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April 10, 2003 at 5:21 am #34529
Takes too much time for someone like me. Besides i don’t have the expertise.
The sky is the limit! |ekR34|
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April 10, 2003 at 2:22 pm #34494
speaking from experience!!! making a cast in silicone and then pouring a resin body is much easier than making a lexan body. the hard part in the making of the lexan body is that your mold has to be perfect so that when the lexan is molded around the body it will not have any wrinkle points or heavy undercuts.. i can show you all some wrinkles and undercuts and why they cause probmems.. the other thing is that you really cant use a putty body to make a vac molded resin mold. they break up after 1-2 molds. i would be more than happy to help someone out if they have access to a vac machine or are doing it at home. Dont get me wrong im not trying to sway anyone away from doing this.. but after doing both mods, i know that the resin mold is much easier. and cost wise its about the same. I will work on putting together a list of all of the problems and solutions that i encountered when i started vac molding. auctually i would love to see some other people doing it. if that person wanted they could even sell them on my site. all money would of course go to the creator of the body.. anyway i will try to post later tonite with more info on doing the lexan bodys..
Custom bodys: Ferari 250 GTO, 69 doge charger, Micro Cooper, Beemer 320i Turbo, Baha Beatle, New Beatle Rsi Porche 911
email: custombitbodys@attbi.com
website: http://custombitbodys.home.attbi.com -
April 10, 2003 at 8:17 pm #34505
i’ve done plastic work before and i’ve used one of those plastic vac machines at school but i dont have it at home 🙂
The sky is the limit! |ekR34|
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April 11, 2003 at 11:52 am #34490
Vac molding ?.
First things first you need a vac molding machine. Homemade machines will work but you will need to get thinner plastic (lexan if you have enough money to pay for the name). If you go with a .010? thickness you should be safe, .007? thickness might even be better for homemade machines, as it does not take as much power to suck the thinner plastic around the mold?
The plastic? there are a few types. You could use styrene sheets, however it becomes very britle and will crack very easy. Thermal plastic, or lexan sheets are the best way to go, they retain their strength after being molded, and are usually avilable in clear.
The mold (body or object you want to mold) –
I use a 3 step process. 1. I start with a body that I want and get it cut to shape, using plaster of paris instead of putty. It drys much faster, and can be sanded and carved upon very easily. Plaster also drys very hard, but britle, and is weakend by water. ..So if you start with a hot wheels car, chop it in half, and remove 3-6mm from the middle of it and then glue it back together.. use plaster or putty to smooth the area you cut.
2. I now will spray the body with some primer. This will help fill in small imperfections, and it will show you larger ones.. once the primer is dry you can sand lightly and then apply putty/plaster to needed areas to smooth and make the desired look of the body. Primer again to verify that the body has no imperfections?
3. because putty (testors, tamiya?) becomes britle when it hardens the mold may break it, which would make all that work that you just did a waste of time?so to combat this I use a liquid latex and brush it over the body. Apply several coats so that there is a nice thick mold, and even use some gause (medical bandage) with liquid latex on it cut in small pieces and apply to the body. This will help make the mold stiff and prevent it from flexing. Apply a few more coats of latex. And then remove the latex mold from the car. From here you can pour a resin replica in the latex mold. Resin is very hard, and will not break very easily. This is the mold that I use in the vac molding machine. And if it does break all I have to do is pull out the latex mold. And pour some more resin. Latex molds can possibly last about 25-50 molds..(you can mold about 25-50 bodys in one latex cast).
4. almost finished. When I pour the resin, I always pour more than the needed to fill the latex cast. This way the overflow will form a base. If you look at the illistration below you can see how I make the molds. I attach the body to a base of some type befor I apply latex so that the latex can be applyd to the base. This allows me to pour more and it just fills up the base? this base will make it much easier to remove the body from the plastic after it has been molded..
i will finish up later
Custom bodys: Ferari 250 GTO, 69 doge charger, Micro Cooper, Beemer 320i Turbo, Baha Beatle, New Beatle Rsi Porche 911
email: custombitbodys@attbi.com
website: http://custombitbodys.home.attbi.com -
April 11, 2003 at 5:09 pm #34462
well i couldnt have put it better myself lmao
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April 12, 2003 at 6:26 pm #39742
hehe leave it to the pros.. oh yeah one question, when u got the finished product from the vacuum and all.. how do you attach it to the bcg body? like it has to have two those clipping things front and back.. how do you put that on?
The sky is the limit! |ekR34| http://www.ekr34.tk
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April 12, 2003 at 7:28 pm #34415
you have to cut it out.. ideally you want to make the length of the body. the length from the base of the rear tab to the base of the first step on the front tab..
look here to see how i do it..
http://custombitbodys.home.attbi.com/bodycutting.htm
Custom bodys: Ferari 250 GTO, 69 doge charger, Micro Cooper, Beemer 320i Turbo, Baha Beatle, New Beatle Rsi Porche 911
email: custombitbodys@attbi.com
website: http://custombitbodys.home.attbi.com
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