Dogbreath Racing

[Dogbreath Racing]

did you read the offset chart at the bottom of the TE page?
Narrows = 0 offset
Wides = -1 offset

[Dogbreath Racing]

with one-ways you need to brake or coast earlier and power through the end of the turn, that way the fronts lock up and pull you through the turn….

[Dogbreath Racing]

Avoid the Topcad diff, thopugh it is alloy it is hard to adjust, feels a bit “gritty”, and doesn’t hold the settings well due to poor design. The Atomic diff is as smooth as butter and much easier to adjust, holds it’s settings perfect, the only drawback is that the body is plastic. It is still a very good diff and much much cheaper than the Kyosho diff. I will be ordering another Atomic diff to replace the Topcad unit in front (I don’t like the Lock-ups or One-ways for my style of driving)

The terminal block works great for a lay-down crystal adaptor, it allows many more bodies to fit including the NSX pictured (love this body on my MA010, low and wide, nice CG with this body)

[Dogbreath Racing]

Listed:
3Racing BB Speed motor
3Racing aluminum center shaft
3Racing bearings
3Racing rear bumper
3Racing motor mount
3Racing motor heat sink
3Racing alloy swing shafts
3Racing 1 degree knuckles (front)
3Racing 0 degree knuckles (rear)
3Racing 1 degree toe in steering bar
3Racing 1 degree toe in bar (rear)
Topcad front top cover
Topcad battery holder
Topcad rear top cover
Topcad ball diff (front)
Topcad 15 degree treaded radials
Atomic ball diff (rear)
Lay down crystal adaptor
Single layer 4652 FET overlay
Autoscale NSX body

[Dogbreath Racing]

Is there a clearance problem, too narrow, what makes those bodies different?

[Dogbreath Racing]

I hear that some of the bodies don’t fit on the new AWD?
I understand they have to be 90 or 94mm.

[Dogbreath Racing]

Using foam fatigue mats for a track is a viable alternative to the overpriced RCP tracks and you CAN get some very nice results for a fraction of the cost.

We started out by buying enough foam mats to completely cover our track area (12ftX16Ft or apporx 48 tiles) Then we took the loose edge that came with the tiles (each tile had a short piece attached to give a square edge) and turned those upright to form the outter wall (these are high enough to prevent a car from going over Most of the time) The are taped in place using white duct tape, we also covered the whole wall with the white duct tape to aid in prventing the car from snagging on them.

Next we bought a bunch of 3/4 inch pipe insulation foam (the round stuff that slides over pipes), these are cut in half length-wise to form half rounds and are coated with white duct tape also.

The pipe sections are the bent and formed into the interior walls of the track. The neat thing here is that you can vary the track width and create compound curves (both of which you CAN’T do with RCP)

The track is now ready for use, the white rails really let you see them and better judge your line, the cars don’t snag nearly as bad as on a RCP track, and you can easily change your lay-out to fit your needs.

We are about $150.00 USD in this track as opposed to $400.00+ for a RCP track the same size.

[Dogbreath Racing]

Ok but the pic is of just one of my Z’s, the fastest one I have, no offense but the whoa nelly doesn’t stand a chance…:smiley2:

Oh yeah, It goes under this body

[Dogbreath Racing]

Through a series of cryptic messages, and a couple of black ops covert operations with a Canadian contact of mine, codename: Machine, I was able to get my hands on a couple of these amazing Iwaver bodies.

Several things I observed need some attention, thus this review. (theres pics at the end of this)

The body, made by Iwaver is designed to fit the IW02 and Kyosho MR02 98mm midmount (MM) chassis.
On the Iwaver chassis it is a direct fit, but not so on the Kyosho MR02 chassis. The problem, and a very small problem at that, is that the Iwaver uses rear wheels with a -1 offset. So when mounted on the Kyosho chassis with 0 offset rear wheels, the tires sit right at the fender edge. This can hamper rear suspension movement, and can even scrub the tires resulting in lower speeds and added battery drain. The fix is very simple, you can either enlarge the rear fender slightly with a dremel to allow suspension movement….or….buy a set of -1 offset wheels (my preffered solution). The fronts fit well with 0 offset wheels which come with either the Iwaver or Kyosho cars.
What I actually did was to order a set of Tocad five spoke alloys with -.5 fronts (Just to tuck them in a hair more…I hate broken front end parts from smackin’ the wall) and -1 rears, these should fit perfect. Atomic also makes the disc wheels in various offsets, a set of these in the proper offset would also look good, especially in chrome.

The second thing I noticed is that the body is molded in one piece, there is no seperate body and glass panel. The whole thing is molded in a smokey gray plastic, then the body color, trim, and details are painted on the outside. This body also features several vents and scoops that are molded clear through the body allowing alot of airflow through the body, this would normally make a weak point in the body, but after my test runs so far this hasn’t been a problem. The body hugs the chassis tighter than any other body I have ever seen. It is low and snug and knocking this body off or loose will NOT be a problem. This snug fit plus the one piece construction makes the body very rigid and it doesn’t have that clunky sound some Kyosho bodies have when you hit the wall or another car. These sound solid. The paint is pretty good though not as shiney as the Kyosho Autoscale bodies, the detail is good, but they could have done better than plain clear headlights (you can look right through them at the front wheels, but this may easily be fixed with either headlight decals or simply painting the inside of the headlight silver or white)

With the body as low as it is there is some rear damper fitment problems underneath. You can run a disc damper by itself, but not with a stock or alloy main damper in conjunction. You may also be able to run a stock or alloy main damper by itself but I have not test fitted that configuration yet. Removing the main damper and running just the disc system didn’t change the handling much so I am pretty happy with it the way it is.

The mirrors are mounted high on the body and don’t protrude from the sides so they are going to last a bit longer than the mirrors on some other bodies.

This Saleen S7 body also has a nice rounded front end (which I really like) that slides off the walls. Theres no sharp edges that might snag the walls and spin you out. This body is much more likely to glance off and keep going. That plus the balance of this body makes it stable and very very drivable.

Only hours on the track will tell for sure, but I think I just found a new “Favorite” race body. When I get the wheels here and get the car repainted I will post some new pics, but for now you are stuck with ‘Stock” images.

Though a bit to dark for me to race, it is very scale and well detailed, like the real one. This one is mounted with IW narrow fronts and semi-wide rear wheels. Seven spoke wheels seem to be the wheels of choice on most of the real S7’s I have seen.

It may have to get repainted to a race theme before it sees much track time.
Man, I want one of the real ones!!!!

These bodies are available on-line and this DOG recommends them!

[Dogbreath Racing]

Yes the Overland, Mr01, and MR02 all share the same axle, bearing, and wheel mounting system so they all will interchange, though offsets may be different.

[Author]

Posts