FreeLoader101

[FreeLoader101]

have u tried it??

u never truly know until u try..

[FreeLoader101]

wrecking and rebuilding is half the fun..

i have a tyco super rebound for when i want sumthin in destructable.. that thing can survive ne thing..

[FreeLoader101]

why is nitro better then electric? cuz when ur nitro car runs outta fuel u just whip out ur bottle n re-fill it.. no 3 hour down time while ur stupid batteries recharge..

ne ways i have money to replace parts if and when i break them.. the only annoying thing will be the down time.. and i’d prolly break more parts with electric cuz i would sh*tbox it all over the place

[FreeLoader101]

everyone on RC drift said nitro drifting is fine for begginers if ur usin PVC.. nitro drifting is only hard on the engine if ur on tires.. it can be bad on PVC.. but only if ur a rev happy idiot.. most ppl on there say they never even need to get much past half throttle for nice drifts..

and my nitro is AWD.. i’m pretty sure all nitro onroads are unless u change them.. or they’re cheapo ones..

ACR?

ne ways.. i got into it cuz it was hard.. if it was easy it wouldnt be fun.. thats why i lost interest in BCG.. the only challenging thing was mods.. otherwise they were boring..

i barely ever drove mine at all.. they’re still just sitting in various pieces on the workbench..

and for drifting on pvc u hardly high rev ur engine at all.. u get ur car goin at a good speed by slowly moving the revs up.. then u make a turn n slide.. only time u rev it high is if u want to lengthen ur drift..

once u have a drift goin u only need to maintain its speed.. u dont have to power it cuz it wont be beneficial..

[FreeLoader101]

told u 😛

lol plus it will be generally lubed (but u’ll want to reapply lube/grease in the essential parts bcuz wd40 will strip them of they’re oils.. and the lubrication it leaves behind wont be sufficient..

[FreeLoader101]

lol.. i can always just not clean it.. and the layer of grime/oil/powdered pvc will create sumthin very similar to rhino liner.. then i’ll never need to buy new parts.. hahaha..

ne ways.. like i said.. i chose that chassis cuz it was the best overall.. not the best for one thing.. that means that if i get bored of drift (or i just plain suck at it and dont wanna practice) i can just do sumthin else with it..

as for an air compresser.. i dont mind cleaning by hand..

as for drift tires.. they dont work as good as pvc.. they’re about 10 times as expensive.. and they wear out 10 times as fast..

if pvc/abs is so bad.. then i’ll just switch to electrical tape/duct tape..

no way i’m spendin money on sum over priced wheels..

oh yea should i buy a yokomo drift chassis too? yea rite..

lol ne ways..

[FreeLoader101]

nitro drifting looks cooler and sounds cooler.. i cbf with electrics and batteries ne more..

as for cleaning.. a good layer of WD-40 ought to do it

that stuff cleans ne thing..

if u goto rcdrift.com.. most of the nitro difters are using TC3’s or RS4’s so.. it cant be that bad..

[FreeLoader101]

also.. does ne one know of any light kits like “the ultimate light kit” for 1/10s? like with signals, ect..

i posted in the BCG forum about it.. but then i realized that light kit was from over 2 years ago (wow.. last time i was posting regularly on these forums he hadnt even started selling it yet)

but ne ways.. i’d really be interested in one for 1/10th scale.. but i dont really know where to start.. i think the best way would be for it to have a seperate powersource.. and have the servo leads act to operate relays (when u turn right it clicks the relay on and allows the batteries power to run thru the relay) and then one of those standard timer chips to make the turn signals blink when the servo is turned wich ever direction.. ect ect..

basicalluy in my ideal design it would have a wire that connected in between the servo and the RX.. very similar to a failsafe.. with a nother wire hooked to the throttle servo to operate the brake lights getting brighter (also i dunno how to make the lights go brighter.. maybe a normally open relay that turns off a resistor when power is applied? or a voltage switcher that switches the power source when applied?)

ne ways.. lol

[FreeLoader101]

thx for all the replies.. but in the end i went with the NTC3 + package from Tower.. it seemed best suited for all my needs (shaft drive, adjustable camber ect, lots of parts available, parts arent too expensive for basic replacement.. but lots of hopups too)

i ordered it on sunday so it should be here soon.. i hope 🙂

one of the reasons i chose that is becuz.. if u just look at the basic chassis.. dont think about engine or ne thing.. its the best design.. i want to use it mostly for drift.. thats why i dont need the high top speed of the SF2 and the 4tec.. and a new OS .18 is only like $130

so in the end i chose it becuz it will suit my application fine stock.. but will also be a good chassis when i get bored and have too much money..

[FreeLoader101]

iunno.. after reading about the TC3.. now i kinda want that one.. but at the same time i’m mostly goona drift.. so the added handling cant be that important when ur spinning PVC.. and the 2.5 engine of the 4-tec has better torque.. so that will help..

augh! i’ll never decide.. i hate having money.. by the time i choose sumthin i want sumthin else (my life is so hard eh? lmao..)

[FreeLoader101]

yea the tc3 i’m talking about is the plus with the .15 and the 2 speed stock..

also the tc3 comes with drive shaft not belts.. is driveshaft alot better than beltdrive?

[FreeLoader101]

i think i’ve decided on the 4-tec combo at tower hobbies

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0161p?&I=LZ0187**

the other choice was the TC3 RTR

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGZJ4&P=ML

the non combo 4-tec and the tc3 cost the same.. so wat do u guys think?

ausRC link:
http://ausrc.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=2197&PN=1

[FreeLoader101]

lol ok cool.. just trying to learn this stuff now so i dont hafta bug ppl in the future..

i’ve also read about taping the batteries together/into the holder (depending on chassis model)

would this work as well? cuz i REALLY hate soldering batteries.. so many bad experiences that i would rather not get into.. lol

oh yea when i said li-ion i meant nihm.. theres too many types of batteries now for me to keep them all strait..

stupid technology.. i should just get a 1/10th scale alternator to run my RX.. lol

[FreeLoader101]

as per gear ratios.. do all 1/10 gears fit eachother? or do u hafta buy ones for the street force 2?

also how long would the RX and TX batteries last? should i get sum rechargables? or are alk’s the way to go?

and if yes to rechargables.. should i got for li-ion? or would nicads work fine?

thanks again for all the responses.. i also started a topic in ausRC

link:

http://www.ausrc.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=2197&PN=1

jamie.. i hope u dont mind the mention..

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ok.. so say i had the money.. any reason why i shouldnt get a 1/8 rtr?

specifically:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDPC2&P=7

??

[FreeLoader101]

haha i want a set of white or black ones to turn into drift (pvc tires)

and possibly a set of metal ones.. (yes i know they’re more weight.. lol.. COSMETICS!!)

[FreeLoader101]

wat size rims can fit this?

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i’d also like to thank jamie for the great advice.. i woulda never found that kit on my own..

my next question is.. hop ups!!

obviously i dont need much.. i mean it has a .18

but.. if i were to be interested in hop ups.. what should i look for? what kind of hop ups are there for nitro?

i dont specifically mean for the SF2.. i just mean in general terms of on-road nitro cars..

TIA

[FreeLoader101]

well i’m most worried about speed.. BUT i like things to look good when they’re going fast.. thats the difference between a toyota with a v8 shoehorned in and a diablo.. they’re both fast.. but one of them looks good while doing it..

and around here r/c gets no respect.. so i want sumthin that looks hott when its sitting on a shelf so i dont always hafta take it outside and show disbelievers wat it can do..

what other accessories should i look at buying for a RTR? would the street force come with a fuel filter and airfilter? or should i get those aswell?

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also.. what kind of top speed would the street force get?

in the video it doesnt look that fast

[FreeLoader101]

my area is pretty good.. i have alot of flat wide open streets that arent busy.. but i also have about a million things to launch off of if i had an offroad.. and i’d prolly destroy it the first day.. thats why i have my trust tyco super rebound.. nuthin i do can break that thing (read 2 story jump onto pavement)

can the street force 2 fit any 1/10 body? or do only some fit eachother.. cuz wat i’d really like to do is get a non lexan 1/10 body and modify it to fit the chassis.. cuz i really dont like lexan.. it reminds me too much of nascar with its cecal lights..

i wish they made 1/10 bodies like they make mini-z bodies.. all 3d ect..

[FreeLoader101]

holy wow.. that is a nice kit.. thanks for the tip..

any other advice from anyone?

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i definately just want it for messin around.. no one races in my city.. we only have 3 hobby shops and they all suck.. i mostly just want the fastest and most coolest (read adjustable) for the money..

as for learning my car.. i’d most likely be tearing it down and messing around with it ne ways.. but i’d prefer if i knew it worked b4 i started messing around.. and also.. i dont like painting.. and i dont like shopping.. lol thats why i like RTR.. i just like things to come set up and ready..

but i guess with sumwhere like Tower where u can get combo’s done easily it wouldnt be too bad..

Edited by – FreeLoader101 on 09 December 2004 21:03:55

[FreeLoader101]

dood man.. i totally know that model.. we had about 50 of em in my electrical class to mess around with.. lights, hydro’s.. ect.. they’re great for puttin lights into.. i did about 3.. u should try yellow lights for the inner head lights and grean for the outers.. just pop out the lights.. cut down the lil tab things (that were melted to hold the light in place) a bit.. not all the way or it will look mashed.. if u cut them down a just a lil then the lights look like mad halogens.. then just take regular size LED’s.. the super bright ones work best.. and wire them and hot glue them where the tabs used to stick thru.. drill the holes from the tabs out a bit first tho.. so that the head of the led just fits a bit thru.. the tail lights look crazy when they’re wired up.. if u measure twice and cut once so to speak u should be able to get the interior to still fit in too.. and theres a perfect place to mount the switch rite where the rear hatch is.. the windows are really easy to tint out if u do them beforehand.. i cant tell if urs are already.. iunno if u have the exact same model as i was workin on.. mines doors, hatch, and hood opened.. but the lights should be similar regardless… just an idea..

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bah.. but i mean really.. wat lasting value do these provide? they’re just toys.. toys only purpose is to be played with.. not to be stored away until the end of time.. he doesnt even have them built or ne thing.. if they were built atleast they’d be cool.. but packed away in boxes?? its pointless.. and i have my own r/c cars.. and i play with them till they break.. why? becuz havin them sit in a box is boring.. and seeing how long it takes for them to break is fun.. atleast stamp collectors look at their stamps and display them and such.. and stamps are pretty… r/c cars are just toys.. and these ones that are all still unopened have yet to serve their purpose.. and their purpose is to be played with.. otherwise they’d just be models.. and i dont care if ne one cares about what my opinion is.. its my opinion and i care.. and its such a nice opinion too.. :approve:

peace.:p

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