HACHI-RYOKU
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I would recomend taking it back for another car or your money. I agree with MA. It’s something faulty, and would be most quickly fixed by replacing it.
I would recomend taking it back for another car or your money. I agree with MA. It’s something faulty, and would be most quickly fixed by replacing it.
You’re the man!
You know, a small water cooling device may not be as hard to make as we think.:evil:
Sounds like a new research project. I may end up pretty bored after getting this thing in tip top shape. I think I have more fun modding than racing. Of-course, everything’s more fun at mach 1.
Hey super power max,
Don’t forget, if you have a friend with a good printer, you could always find a logo on the internet and size it with a photo editor. Then you can print it out on sticker paper. I call it sticker paper for lack of better words. It’s clear plastic like paper that is sticky on one side. Basically used to make stickers.Nice job so far!
Also, you can’t forget about the mini toenail clippers with built in nail file. I’ve used those in more ways than one. For some reason they always have an application that no other tool can do. I consider them one of the ultimate MacGyver tools.
I’m insane. How hard would it be to get a few of those? I’m interested.
Is it an LXX or super perfection?
Is it an LXX or super perfection?
On to the next problem. The motors. I destroyed a 4.2 king within a matter of about 15~30 minutes with this car. The power supplied builds up more heat than I’ve ever seen. It melts some of the plastic in the motor compartment and I definitely can’t touch the motor or heat sink. It’s too damn hot.
Anybody have any ideas to reduce heat? I remember seeing something, but I can’t find it now and I don’t recall what it was.
Did you strip the paint? If you did, what did you use?
Yes, I’m going to have to invest in some of those.
Hey all, I just finished some work on the car. I put in 2 npn fets and 2 pnp fets. I was going to double and triple stack them but after running it with single stack I came to some conclusions.
1. The fets no longer heat up. Now the car can run indefinitely without overheating the fets.
2. I don’t need to double or triple stack the fets. The thing won?t stay on the ground as it is. Mind you, it has the “modifiers” wheels that have almost no traction, but it will still pop wheelies on all but the slickest of surfaces. I couldn’t even imagine what it would do with sticky tires.
3. Other people need to try this! This may be the fastest mini car I’ve ever seen first-hand. This is way faster than my quad-cell. I can’t get a good speed check on it until I get a hold of my digital speed checker.The only thing I need now is a booster/2-speed pcb. It’s insane to take off at full power. While I’m in the middle of moving (recently moved back to the states), not all my supplies are here yet. All I have available is single speed pcb’s at the moment. Hopefully, in another week or two my other boxes will start showing up. Or i might fins a 2-speed car to get the pcb from.
Just so we’re on the same page, I used 2 IRLML2502 N-channel fets and 2 IRLML6401 P-channel fets. You can not use this combination on stock single cell cars because the P-channel fets require a greater “on” voltage. Although I have to say it was a little easier to use this fet combo because all the fets fit in like the old transistors. I didn’t need to flip anything or do anything special.
Why does this seem to work better for this car? Why did the npn fets get hot to begin with (the spec sheets showed that it would take the voltage and current that I was using)?
I’m not an electronics engineer, so I may not have all the facts, but I recently read about repolarizing npn transistor gates to make them function in the place of the pnp transistors, witch is what we normally do with the famed fet mod that uses four npn fets in the place of 2 npn and 2 pnp transistors. Well, apparently, what I got from this literature, was that when you repolarize a transistor and make the current flow the “other” way, this somehow lowers the performance capabilities of the transistor. In other words Power can’t run as efficiently through a transistor when it’s going the direction it wasn’t designed to. Hence, the hot fets??Well thank you MA.
Well, the li-poly will heat up the fets and it stops working when they get real hot. This is bad of-course. I also noticed that the double stacked fets get very warm on the quad-cell that you (MA) helped me out with. I’m thinkin that triple stacked may give more flow for the current and reduce the temp a little. From what I understand though, transistors normally get warm during operation. But I still think the fets are getting too warm and need more flow for the current.
Sorry, I just got back to the States, and am working on getting all nestled in. Work on this project is on/off. Will get the project done soon though.
It is good to see you back.
I would say no. But honestly, I wouldn’t know. ALTHOUGH, you can charge li-poly batts at C100, witch means the fastest current you would want to use is equal to the mah. I.E. 80mah batts would use around 80ma to charge and that would take about an hour. So, if you have two 80mah wired in parallel, that would be 160mah. You could test it to see how long it would take to charge. If it takes 2 hours at 80ma to charge, than you know you can double the current.
I would like to know how it goes. Let us know.
Hell yeah! I just wish they had better models and collectables. Then I would collect more. I always liked the decepticons. I think they had all the cool stuff. Autobots had some good stuff too, but the decepticons had jets, tape players with tapes, and guns.
Will triple stacking them require more on voltage? That would be parrallel, so it should be the same right?
Hehehe. Thanx for all the input.
Nice one! Mind if I use the idea?
Well, I just did the stage 2 fets. I didn’t test the first set of fets to see if they would work. I’ve done a milion stage 1 fet jobs with little difficulty. I flipped all the ones that needed to be flipped (4 total). I fiddled with the connections all night.
I ordered some pnp fets. When they get here, I’ll strip the fets off and retry with them. They are a little easier to deal with, because they drop right into place. Maybe I can triple stack those. I’m putting them in the car with a 3.7 volt li-poly batt, so I should have plenty of juice for them.
Use the 1:43. The 1:64 are too small. Sounds crazy, but it’s true. Remember that the bcg have over-sized wheels. The ones shown in the pic are 1:43. You will probably need to file out some room in the front wheel wells to accomidate for range of motion of the front wheels.
I’ve done it. It works well. I took the front rims off the ZZ knuckles and put them on the bcg knuckles. The back rims come off easily. The only problem was that the front wheels are a little bigger than the regular bcg wheels, so you’ll have to file/dremmel out some room on the front wheel wells on a bit. They are also a little heavier, so you might want to put an extra return spring on the steering. Maybe not though. Try it first, then decide if you want the extra return spring.
Check them out here.
http://www.modifierscars.com/home.htmhoezz are every where man. Remember, 2-pac said.
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