mrbishi

[mrbishi]

You’ll be surprised but the Stampede has never broken a part. The worst thats happened is its eaten a few spur gears, and one of the pins in the suspension arm popped out. The Stampede has a design flaw in which the motor mounting is plastic so the screws dig into it causing all sorts of nasty movement which in turn eats gears. I have fixed that now tho 🙂

That was probably the Revos third outing in the dirt and it was unfortunate that it broke. It was a very simple part – the landing wasn’t wonky or anything just bad luck I guess.

—
Jon 🙂

[mrbishi]

Sorry I didn’t mention it uses DivX 5.11 encoding for the vid 🙂

—
Jon 🙂

[mrbishi]

I have plenty of fun in my Stampede with some 8.4v packs I made up hehe – waiting on the brushless to arrive then the real fun will start.

—
Jon 🙂

[mrbishi]

Revos are pretty tough – built for bashing – it isn’t too difficult to flip a nitro if you get a bit of air and have some throttle control 🙂

—
Jon 🙂

[mrbishi]

My friend with the Revo actually is new to offroad. Previous to that he owned an electric Duratraxx stadium truck for about 2 weeks.

The Revo actually broke one of the cam links in the suspension and the Stampede lost a suspension link pin (no breakage) 🙂

—
Jon 🙂

Edited by – mrbishi on 03 November 2004 12:24:33

[mrbishi]

Yea the bauxite pea gravel out here is pretty unique to WA and yea its the same thing the rally teams always have fun picking tires to race on it 🙂

Thanks for the kind words 🙂 Hope to have more vids coming soon 🙂

Cheers,
—
Jon 🙂

[mrbishi]

I thought the TVR Tuscan Speed 6 shell was ideal for the color change paint as it is just so curvy and sexy 🙂 hehehe

—
Jon 🙂

[mrbishi]

heheh that mi2 is a mates – he was racing a lil too hard and snapped a front suspension are (he has actually done a few.. ouch hehe).

—
Jon 🙂

[mrbishi]

I understand that I need to either do a FET upgrade or use an external turbo and I have no intention of dropping in a ‘hot’ motor and frying my mini-z. I already plan to get a Whoa Nelly external turbo so now I need to do some more research on engines.

Does anyone have any experience with any of the motors available on:

http://www.minizworkshop.com

Cheers,
Jon 🙂

[mrbishi]

the Palsma Dash motor seems quite cheap – any reason to get this over one of the minizworkshop.com motors ?

I think the woahnelly external turbo will be the way to go 🙂

Cheers,
Jon

[mrbishi]

I’m not so really after an offroader – more of something to play around doing jumps, obstacle courses, technical stuff 🙂

Cheers,

—
mrbishi 🙂

[mrbishi]

Well you’ll all be pleased to know I fixed my servo glitch issues. Took the servo apart and it was filthy.. cleaned it out, put some contact cleaner on the pot and did the paper fix. Also put some contact cleaner on the pot on the top of the PCB.. after that everything was good 🙂 had lotsa fun as my xspeed just arrived today hehe 🙂

—
mrbishi 🙂

[mrbishi]

I’ve had the AAA 900mAh nimh’s in my car since I got it – I’ve been using AA energisers in my transmitter but now have some nimh 2300mAh AA’s for that too 🙂

I still can’t get over the run time 🙂 my friends with their 1:10th scale things get 10 minutes if they are lucky and then have to swap/charge batteries. I’ll quite happily blast around for close to an hour before changing to my second set 🙂

Cheers,
—
mrbishi 🙂

[mrbishi]

Thanks for the suggestions guys – I have read about the paper fix on elsewhere and will look into this.

Just returned from Jaycar armed with some contact cleaner and lube and 10 x 2300mAh AA’s (up till now I was using alkalines in the transmitter). My car is running the 900mAh AAAs.

I’ll let you all know how it goes tonite when I attempt to fix the prob 🙂

Cheers,
—
mrbishi 🙂

[mrbishi]

I’ll be sure to check the solder on the antenna contacts when I get home today.

I read an interesting thread here:

http://www.minizracer.com/forums/printthread.php?threadid=4595

I might grab some contact cleaner and clean out the little trim pot properly on the top of the circuit board. Now the next question what is the correct contact cleaner to get – I found all these below:

Jaycar Contact Cleaner Lubricant Spray Can

Jaycar Electronic Cleaning Solvent Spray Can

Dick Smith Contact Cleaner

CRC Contact Cleaner

CRC Switch Cleaner Lubricant

Any ideas – they all seem to do around about the same things but some are electrically conductive/don’t harm plastic/have lubricant 🙂 its all very confusing 🙂

Cheers,
—
mrbishi 🙂

[mrbishi]

Something else that comes to mind that was kinda off was two of the screws (the top two in the pic) in the rollshock wouldn’t screw in any further than in the pic – just dodgy parts ? I tried swapping the shock around/swapping screws around but still the same result.

http://images.jonhammond.net/mini-z/mini-z_rollshock.jpg

I just realised the the Focus needed a high mount when I got the engine casing. I could still make the stock plastic one a high mount and use that right ?

Cheers,
—
mrbishi 🙂

[mrbishi]

Hi guys,

Two friends of mine are running the internal antennae with no glitching at all so I doubt that the internal antennae itself is the cause. I can hold my car upside down in 1 hand and the transmitter in the other and the front wheels will glitch slightly to the left and right and not really be totally still for any amount of time.

Things I have done so far to try to solve this.

– replaced the transmitter with a brand new set of batteries – this fixed a friends glitch issues previously.

– added 104 capacator inbetween the two caps on the engine (read this on a webpage) – no noticable effect.

I think next I will try to take apart the servo and give it a good clean and try to give the trim pot as best a clean as I can without pulling it apart.

If all of this still doesn’t work I might try taking all the after market bits off and putting them back in 1 by 1 and testing. Before I fitted everything it was fine.

Cheers,
—
mrbishi 🙂

[mrbishi]

Got my rcmart order today – unfortunately after putting it all together its glitchy as all hell 🙁 its late now and I don’t have the patience to play with it anymore – anyone got any ideas that may help ?

Cheers,
—
mrbishi

[mrbishi]

Heya everyone thanks for all the replies ! 🙂

Jay-z:
Always been a big fan of Mitsubishi particularly the Rally Cars. Hence the name 🙂 I was running my car with the 8 tooth pinion just doing runs on a nice long flat concrete carpark and simply turning/doing power slides broke both back ones. Im not sure but looking at the stock wheels the RX7 comes with they are quite thin around the area they attach and hence they sheered off at this point on both wheels. My other two friends with the RX7 bodies have also busted 2-3 wheels before they got there new bodies/wheels.

jamiekulhanek :
Ohh I think I’m already on the path to dangerous consumption by the mini-z monster 🙂 I’ll keep in mind what you mentioned about the diff – hey a question does anyone use “dry” style lubricants on any bits in their mini-z ? Another very expensive hobby of mine (downhill mountain biking) uses dry wax lube for the chain and I was thinking this could be perfect for the mini-z (doesnt attract dust etc etc like we lubes).

I ordered the parts from rcmart.com (woah they have a lot of stuff). Heres the list of hopups I got (hehehe bare with me 🙂

– Kyosho AutoScale B.A.S.C. MUGEN NSX 2002
– Kyosho AutoScale No.4 FORD FOCUS WRC2001
– Xspeed motor
– 3Racing (#KM-005) Rear Damper For Mini-Z
– TOPCAD (#MZA21S) Spring damper + Plate + Spare spring
silver
– TOPCAD (#MZA13S/1) Alloy F/Knuckle Arm W/Shart(1Deg camber)
– TOPCAD (#MZA38) King Pin for Mini-z
– Kyosho Parts (#MZW12) Front Stabilizer Set
– Kyosho Parts (#MZW5) Rear Suspension Plate Set/3
– Kyosho Parts (#MZW106) Mini-Z Inner Antenna
– Xtra Speed (#XS1-2SV/W) Mini-Z ALUM WIDE WHEEL – Silver
– TOPCAD (#MZA14BK) Ball Differential Set – Black
– TOPCAD (#MZA08S) Alloy Motor Mount for Mini-Z – Silver

and a few things I ordered elsewhere (Ausmicro and private)

– Unpainted AMG Mercedes CLK Shell
– Kyosho Parts (#MZ2) Small Parts Set For Chassis
– Kyosho Parts (#MZW17-30) Wide Tire 30C (MZW17-30)
– Xtra Speed (#XS7-1) King Pin for Mini-z (XS7-1)
– 1 x ausmicro anodized black wheel nuts
– 1 x ausmicro aluminium wheel nuts
– 1 x ausmicro bearings

Phew that was a long list 🙂 anything I’ve missed guys that you can suggest (mmm turbo/larger engine setup is tempting but I’ll learn with the xspeed first).

bithed: ahh yes I can see myself spending more dosh on this before I’m satisfied (if its possible to ever be satisfied). Do you run some sort of online store or have pricelists etc ? Or do we just drop you an email asking about certain parts etc etc ?

merc-blue: yes these woah-nelly things intruige me 🙂 wanna explain to me some more about them – I understand they are an add on that allows you to run larger motors that draw more current?

Woah 🙂 ok I think I’m done hehehe

Cheers,
—
mrbishi 🙂

Edited by – mrbishi on 14 September 2004 16:42:02

[mrbishi]

haha Geo-Z 🙂 Don’t worry I’m not a crazy old man with dinosaurs locked in his garage hehe 🙂

You sure are right about turning a grown adult into a quivering lil kid (hehe I’m not sure how much my wallet likes it 🙂 Wish I could join you guys but alas I’m over on the west coast in Perth 🙂

I think the stock diff problem could be caused by it getting dirty. So far we only race on ourdoor really smooth concrete carpark surfaces – we try to sweep it down as well as we can but I’m sure dirt still gets everywhere. Planning on maybe building a carpet track in the garage at some stage but need to read A LOT more on track construction.

The ball diff I ordered was:

TOPCAD (#MZA14BK) Ball Differential Set – Black

I hope this will suffice otherwise out comes the wallet again 🙂 hehehehe

Cheers,
—
mrbishi

[mrbishi]

57 kph ! thats just mindblowing dgs73 🙂

What sort of motor/setup are you running to acheive that kind of speed !! I think I will stick with the xspeed for a little while (at least until my friends with mini-z’s all decide to upgrade to larger motors/turbo setups) hehe

Cheers,
—
mrbishi 🙂

[Author]

Posts