Z-Nagual
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I’ve just spent hours trying to swap the servo fets off one of my circuits with the apparently screwed up drive fets and now I find out it probably won’t help any way. aaarrgghh. Oh well good soldering practice. I need a smaller tip cos I’m frustrated to the point of random acts of violence right now.
Crazy as in not properly
the turbo I’ve got right now does’nt replace originals. I think it just takes the extra load. Its not the same as nelly which replaces them all together. The car still goes crazy with or without the turbo ive got now.
By the way, is the circuit out of an overland any different to a racer? Just out of curiosity.
And also if by drive fets you mean the ones that ‘drive’ the motor does that mean if I took them out and put a Nelly in would it fix the problem? The mini-z works with the controller 20cm’s away from it but thats the totality of it’s range right now.As I said before I’m an ammature
As in the fets that are connected to the servo? or the stock ones at the back? (I’m using an external turbo at the moment} piggyback esc I suppose you could call it? I’m sure the fets In my turbo are ok.
I should be getting my nelly + brand new z on monday or tuesday. Ordered motor + magnets etc from Hong Kong which will take god knows how long. Where’s Meadowbank?(sorry, I’m an idiot).
As for the whippersnipper NOW YOUR THINKING. LOL. I’m going to do electronics at tafe so maybe one day I’ll figure out how to do 8 cells, but for now I’m only an amature with high aspirations. LOL.Where are you located? I think I’ve seen the same model in frontline hobbies here in newy. their no. is 49291140. Maybe you should enquire. The dudes who work there are complete dickheads though (can I say that here). otherwise have a look at AMT ERTL website or something. It’s not too hard to come by.
AMT ERTL is the brand. 1:25 is the scale. and its not the length thats the problem (although its quite long) its the width thats the problem. If you’ve seen the 36 coupe, you might notice that the engine bay is quite narrow in comparison to the rear of the car. wheras the front of the mini-z is the same width as the rear. It would take a LOT of cutting to fit it and to be honest I don’t think it can be done. maybe a 1:24 scale would JUST fit. Either way I would love to see one in action. Its such a nice model of car. I’m scared to try in fear of ruining it. And if your next question is ‘will I part with it’ I’m sorry no.
most of my shells have been custom. 1/24th and 1/25th scale model kits. I cant really afford it but I manage somehow. Whats worse is screwing up the electronics as I did with the 8 cell shenanigan. I’m in the process of getting a new mini-z (my 3rd) cos I tested a 20 turn motor(0.4mm wire) which did pretty much the same thing as the 8 cell. fried the reciever or whatever.
Don’t tell me no ones tried that before.
It was dragster inspired. cars that are only meant to run for a few seconds. It fliped as soon as you turned though. At first I had the batteries sitting on top of the motor which made it do insane wheelies but it was just plain impracticle.
I’m in newcastle. And yeah I know it’s insane but thats the whole point. You should have seen it. It was the ugliest thing i’ve ever seen. I cut a rectangle in my old viper bonnet had them all sticking out the front. and had to take the rear window out to fit the motor in. Had to mount the motor diagonally so the pinion could reach the diff.
I was using a motor that was meant for an aerobird.
I wanna see my front wheels lift off the ground. I once put an extra 4, yes 4 batteries in my mini-z (8 all up!). Unbelievable ‘punch’ ludicris top speed but after 2 mins the steering would go absolutely insane and well…. I went and bought a new mini-z the next week.
I also have an untouched 1936 ford coupe. looks like a challenge to fit it to the z chassis tho.
I currently have a HKS kansai service altezza sxe10. Looks awesome. previous cars: viper, tommi mak lancer, vw gti golf (rm tuner version), smokey and the bandit trans am, 95 mitsu. eclipse, trueno, chev s10 truck, thunderbird stock racing car and a mini that was converted to a drag mini by glueing the chev s10’s motor on tne bonnet and glueing 2 sets of wheels together for super fat rear wheels which made it imposible to roll or flip.
“I’ll be back”
where did all of you dudes get your plasma dash? I’ve been ringing different hobby shops and apparently the aust. tamiya wholesaler doesn’t even have them. what a pickle I’m in. aus rc suppliers are pathetic.
I see. I didn’t think it would make that much of a difference. If I ever get that nelly off you what motor would you recomend? I raced my cousin’s brand new 1/18 scale mini-r maloo with my mini-z with nothing but an x-speed and a small turbo and still whooped him. Does anyone know of some 1/18 motor upgrades?
tamiya black? i thought that neo’s are best.
don’t so3’s have neo’s? if so what actually makes the plasma dash better? -
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