Traveler
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Its really sad to see what’s happend to this forum 🙁 Used to be one of the best, if not THE best!
Anyone there???
I’d like a couple v4s as well 🙂
Aaron told me months ago he had a large quan***y of Spiders he wanted to unload. I was under the impression he was going to start selling them again through the store or eBay. But I haven’t been here in a while, so not sure what happened. Is Aaron back or AWOL?
Glad to hear Mini-Z enthusiasm is still alive and well down under. I learned most of what I know about FETs, external turbos, uberdashes and plasma dashes from the guys there. That was when I was still playing with XMODS. I’m almost done with the last of them (still 5 more to sell), as I am now exclusively into Mini-Zs. I have an RCP track at home, but there is a track at a LHS about an hour from my home and I’ve been to race a few times on Thursdays. Loads of fun!
If I ever make it to Aus, I’ll be sure to make time to check out the Mini-Z scene.
Enjoy!
Great News! Just heard from Aaron! He is back, but not in full capacity, and will be straightening out all past unfilled/unrefunded orders starting next week.
For those of you that placed an order you never recevied and were unable to get your money back through PayPal, you should expect to hear from Aaron in a week’s time or so.
In the mean time, he tells me the shop’s ordering option has been disabled.
WELCOME BACK AARON!:beer:
For what its worth, I just noticed EGR is selling the SP8M4s as an Atomic product. They are a reliable source and ship mighty quick. Some orders take 7 days from order date to delivery date in US.
WOW! Haven’t been on this forum for a while and I am surprised to hear about the problems of unfilled orders.
In past dealings with Aaron, he has been very responsive to questions and has shipped all items promptly. It usually takes 2 weeks from order to receipt of items in US. But I have only ordered from his eBay store and my last order was in March.
I can certainly understand your frustrations with unfilled orders and lack of response. But it makes me wonder if Aaron is OK.
@CowboySiR03 228959 wrote:
I remember reading an article from Christian Tabush about the merits of the sp8m’s on a 2.4GHz board for a “world cup” prepped AWD he was making. If you get a chance (since I don’t recall his exact words) check his reflexracing.net site and read pt 1 of his AWD story…there you’ll find that he replaced just the top fet setup with the sp8m’s so he essentially created a 3010/sp8m mix for his board that can run quality motors that are excellent for world cup level racing events.
As for me, i have an AD band board that has a mix such as described above that is too fast for most tracks with a 37ish turn neo mag motor…it has to be turned to about 60% throttle before it is even useable on any track i build (and I have six wide oval RCP’s to connect together:smiley14: )
My mistake…8858’s were the fet I read about…
That is where I got the idea and even spoke to Christian about it. He seems to think it is a viable option, and he should know. I appreciate it being an easier installation, but sense a total replacement with 2×2 SP8M4s would be better than adding a layer of SP8M4s
As LL3 suggested, I could try the easier route first and do a total replacement if not satisfied. Will update with results once I have a chance to do this.
Thanks Cowboy
@LL3 228628 wrote:
Hey again Traveler,
Just “stacking” a new layer of the SP8M4 Fets on top of one of the sides of 3010 Fets on the 2.4 boards is a viable upgrade. You will get some of the performance of the SP8M4 Fets, but not all. The current will split among the 3010’s and the SP8M4 Fets, with more current being sent thru the SP8M4’s than thru the 3010’s. This method is easier than the full-replacement method, and will allow you to use some hotter motors. But the 3010’s still limit the performance somewhat, and there is more of a chance of blowing an FET than if you replace all four 3010 Fets with SP8M4. It just depends on what you want. You could always try the “extra layer” approach and see how you like it.
If you want to run some super-hot hand-winds (Hotter than say a Chili) then replacing all 3010’s with SP8M4’s is better IMO. Also, if you want a 2×3 SP8M4 FET setup, then simply do a 2×2 stack on one side of the PCB and a 1×2 layer on the other. Hope this helps.Thanks for the info! Even though a hybrid may work, I just don’t like the idea. I may add a layer of 3010s left over from other board upgrades first and see how I like that. Then I can do an all SP8M4 board 2×2 or 3×2.
So far I am very impressed with the performance of the two pairs of 3010s on the stock 2.4 Ghz boards, but haven’t used any “hot” motors yet.
Thanks for the response on this and my other post LL3. That is what I suspected, I just hate to go ripping perfectly good FETs off boards if I don’t need to. I may live with stock 2×2 3010s for a while as they seem to handle anything I’ve tried so far.
Any attempts at installing a Spider on the new 2.4 Ghz boards? Assume all 4 3010 FETs would need to be removed? Don’t want to fry my board or v4.0 spider so please help!
OK. So now I have 4 2.4 Ghz Mini-Zs and want to use some of my remaining SP8M4 FETs on these boards. Any suggestions???
On the AM Mini-Z boards, I removed the 2×1 3010s and replaced with 2×2 SP8M4s. But the new boards have 4 3010s. Pair on top and pair on bottom. I was thinking of replacing all 4 with SP8M4s in same configuration. But a Mini-Z expert here in the US suggests adding a pair of SP8M4s on top of the exisiting 3010s. That would be a 3×2 stack, 2×2 3010 and 2×1 SP8M4. Aside from easier installation, what are the benefits/downsides of this approach to total replacement???
Thanks!
Good luck Andrew. And be sure to check out Kenon hobbies in Arcadia. Here is there site http://www.rckenon.com
Yeah man! Happy Birthday Aaron. Cheers! :beer:
Negative, but good question. Made me go look! The le mans cars are a MM with the mono rear shock, but a little different configuration than the standard MR-02s. Here is a pic of the le mans chassis.
If I don’t like the new suspension system on the Countach, I can try to find the le mans rear suspension parts and try them. 😀
Jimmy,
The answer is yes! I don’t have an MR-01, but the v4.0 info in the store says:
The Spider v4.0 Black Widow can be installed in the following Chassis:
Kyosho Mini-Z MR-01, MR-02, MR-015, MA-010
Kyosho Mini-Z Overland, Mini-Z Monster
Kyosho Mini-Z Boats
iWaver 01, 02, 02M, 04
Firelap 02, Bigfoot
Losi Micro-T Buggy and Baja
RadioShack Xmods Generation1
RadioShack XMods EVOApril 13, 2008 at 1:16 pm in reply to: Installing the Spider V3.0 "Red Back" in a AWD chassis #60040Nice job! This will come in handy when I get around to installing the v4.0 in my AWD. Thanks!
Wouldn’t it be the same as the v3.0 installation? There is a nice tutorial with pictures on this forum. I don’t know how to insert a link here, just search for Installing the Spider V3.0 “Red Back” in a AWD chassis.
A little slower on the dyno than the UberDash.
UberDash = 41 kph
JetDash = 37 kphBut… The modified Jet Dash seems to have more torque than the UberDash.
Both have a very smooth power band, but when floored from half speed, the modified JetDash seems to lunge forward. It looked like the rear of the car actualy came off the track for a split second and then the car was at the end of straightaway and tumbeling end over end.I just wish I had a way to actually measure torque. AtomicMods has a new toy that measures rpms and torque and they have nice graphs for most motors on their site as well as an article on the subject at http://www.atomicmods.com/Categories/Article—Interpreting-A-Motors-Power.aspx I know the guys over there, and if I send them the 2 motors they may be willing to test them both. But I’m not ready to part with either as I love them both!
In short, the UberDash is a great motor, but this modified Jet Dash may give it a run for its money on a shorter course. Will continue to play with both and see if one is clearly better. Although that is more a matter of taste!
Thanks again ph2t for all your insight and for the UberDash!
Cheers!:beer:
Couldn’t get the camera to focus in on the armature. This is the best I could do…
Its still breaking in. Got busy today and had friends over for the last five hours, so I neglected to keep changing the batteries all evening. Now the kids are in bed, so its time to play 😉
Will follow ph2t’s directions but will need some help.
How do I polish the commutator?
What about my rotation problem? Are the magnets on the opposite side of the can than where they should be? Will likely open can to switch mags to opposite sides (or swap for original Jet Dash mags as suggested), so will post some pics.
Carbon brushes being broken in are fresh PN Racing brand. So I got that right!Although I have most of the Tamiya motors, I don’t remember what the guts look like.
Can’t wait to get it in a car on the dyno and then the track. Hopefully tonight! :smiley15:
Decided to build it since the wife is out for a while. Used the Tamiya Jet Dash armature, a PN BB can with new endbell, Atomic neo mags. All just laying around still in the plastic. The motor is breaking in now and I will post results once I get it in a car. If it is worthy it will need a new name.
One interesting thing is it spins in the opposite direction than my other motors. While looking at the shaft from the front of the can (the end the pinion goes on) my motors spin clockwise. This one spins counter clockwise. Guess I put the magnets in backwards? Will have to do some research to figure this out. Any help is appreciated.
In the mean time, any suggestions for a cool name are appreciated…
:beer:
Don’t mean to hijack this thread, but…
I understand the Jet Dash is one of the best/fastest/badest Tamiya motors. I have a couple sitting around and was wondering how they would compare to the UberDash if the Jet Dash armature is used in place of the Ultra Dash armature. Has anyone tried this???
Hoping ph2t can weigh in on this. Thanks!
Thanks for the tip ph2t. I love that motor!
So far its only done time in an XMODS EVO with a Spider v2.1 and an 8 tooth pinion. Will try it in the Gen1 v4.0 soon, but also with an 8 tooth. I just prefer the smaller pinions and the UberDash is plenty fast with the low gearing.
No AWD. Used to have it in all my super fast cars. But after I got an RCP track I realized its no longer necessary. Cars have pleny of traction and run much better in RWD with the right tires.
:beer:
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