Charlie Brown
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Quote:you guys have gotta stop playing with your balls so much……
ROTFLMAO!
AWESOME! I have a few questions:
How long did it take you to have all this done? half an hour, 2 hours….? My first 2×2 stack of FETs on an Iwaver Z took about half an hour to solder in, and 1 1/2 more hours to get it working efficiently.
And what type of motor are you planning on using in your Xmod? I would suggest some types of aftermarket motors, but I haven’t ever tested one, so I’m not going to talk about something I haven’t had experience with. :smiley2:
I wonder how your MR-01 would perform with that turbo and the battery pack…:D
Oh, and ph2t…regulating the voltage down for the board and allowing full voltage to the FET/motor is one thing, but have you thought about using relays? Hang in there a sec….
http://tinyrc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=16774&perpage=40&pagenumber=2
That’s where Mr. Bigshot uses relays….
HOLY ****!!! Ok, I hope you are gonna sell these now, because I just HAVE TO HAVE ONE!!!! You are a pure genius….:D
Oh, and care to show us a schematic/diagram? Thanks! 😯
Edited by – Charlie Brown on 11 August 2004 03:35:26
Oh DAMN, now I’m definitely gonna buy the Woah nelly deluxe… how much will that bitch cost ph2t? 😯
Oh DAMN, now I’m definitely gonna buy the Woah nelly deluxe… how much will that bitch cost ph2t? 😯
I’d drifted A Bit Char-g clone before, I added a dual cell, and all I had to do was turn to slip the rear out a little, then let off the throttle….worked nicely.
Quote:oh yeah? not if this one smokes you first………..turkey!:D:8ball:
hahaha….seriously though, that is one sexy chassis….lol…betty, how many kilometers/miles per hour does that pet beast of yours hit on the speed checker? And what’s that motor you’re running in there? (how many turns, what kinda mags, blah blah :D)
Quote:oh yeah? not if this one smokes you first………..turkey!:D:8ball:
hahaha….seriously though, that is one sexy chassis….lol…betty, how many kilometers/miles per hour does that pet beast of yours hit on the speed checker? And what’s that motor you’re running in there? (how many turns, what kinda mags, blah blah :D)
Just awesome….Since you upgraded the handling, ya think you can go for more speed upgrades now? I.E., 12/14 tooth pinion, lithium batteries….And why have you chosen the Ultra Dash armature and not the Plasma Dash?
Just awesome man….. But it’s weird how that thing hits ONLY 40 KPH…..I’d think that for kilometers, it’d be at least 60-70 kph with the setup you have! 😯
Edited by – Charlie Brown on 01 August 2004 07:09:30
Just awesome….Since you upgraded the handling, ya think you can go for more speed upgrades now? I.E., 12/14 tooth pinion, lithium batteries….And why have you chosen the Ultra Dash armature and not the Plasma Dash?
Just awesome man….. But it’s weird how that thing hits ONLY 40 KPH…..I’d think that for kilometers, it’d be at least 60-70 kph with the setup you have! 😯
Edited by – Charlie Brown on 01 August 2004 07:09:30
Quote:go to bed charlie, it’s way past your bedtime…..LOL 😀
Quote:go to bed charlie, it’s way past your bedtime…..LOL 😀
Quote:being in australia i doubt we’ll never know…was a good point that bird had tho…
my mini-z was even cheaper than an i-waver, so what ever i can get out of it i’m very happy.
how much did the x-plate set you back charlie?
The X-plate cost me around 13 dollars, from here:
Quote:being in australia i doubt we’ll never know…was a good point that bird had tho…
my mini-z was even cheaper than an i-waver, so what ever i can get out of it i’m very happy.
how much did the x-plate set you back charlie?
The X-plate cost me around 13 dollars, from here:
LOL, yeah…a cheaper “lower quality clone” putting those “richer, higher quality” MR-02s to shame 😀
BTW, I noticed that just before you went flipping, a blue RC car hit you fron the front causing you to flip over, but since it crashed into you first, you slowed that MR-02 down suddenly, perhaps stripping the pinion of the MR-02….But that MR-02 u were chasing was a Supra….and, the front of the car that hit you was blue…so, how could that be if the Supra was white?
Edited by – Charlie Brown on 23 July 2004 17:34:04
lol, speed isn’t very hard to gain if you have the cash and all….keep adding batteries (using something to keep it safe for the electronics, like Jshwaa’s regulator mod…lol), wind the motor down, keep stacking FETs/turbos, blah blah….It’s CONTROLLING the speed that gets difficult….What’s a 75+ mph system worth if you can’t hook it up to the ground?
For trying to go straighter, you could always (I’ve said this before) put harder springs in the front and softer in the back, put harder tires in the front and softer in the back, adjust the motor so that it’s behind the rear axle….Of course, with less traction in the front and more in the rear, it won’t spin out too easily, but then it may be hard to turn…meaning you have to slow down for the turns or whatever…It’s kinda hard to find the right balance…that’s why some people go for handling upgrades before the speed upgrades…lol….
Also, there’s http://www.towerhobbies.com , If you can manage to pull off international shipping, then they have good parts…
Quote:must agree, iwaver got the suckiest chassis, take the switch out once and it’ll never stay in like it was. as me and tall dude learnt switch also crap. im sure with a bit of chi ching you’ll be able to get a nice running car.#1: Why would you take the switch out in the first place?
#2: I don’t give a sh1t how “suckiest” the chassis is, or how much “full” propo it lacks. As Bird on Bitpimps said, If I have my Iwaver next to a “real” mini-z in a race, hopped up with the same parts, then I can just be a good driver and use real skill to make up for the “differences” between the Iwaver and the “real thing”.lol, guys, by internal discs I meant the flat gear attacked to the axle of the left wheel (rear facing you) and the other flat gear attached to the right wheel…lol..the axle of the left wheel rotates inside the right wheel, if you spin the left wheel one way, you’ll notice the right wheel spinning the other, but the lug nut of the right wheel rotating the same way of the left wheel (that, or should I speak English?)
sausage link is correct…aaannndd it’s not the fragility of the car, but how good the driver is :smiley2:
Quote:Looks good mate.
What do you mean by slippage?
Like the pinion gear slipping on the spur gear, or the actaully diff internals slipping. If the internals are slipping then maybe they are stripped?Yup, the internal disks are slipping, that’s with a 6T pinion. The Iwavers come with crappy differentials, but for such a cheap price compared to an “official” Z, I no complain. :smiley2:
Quote:get a whoa nelly…….better than any FET stacks out there.I agree with you 100%, but for now, I only have enough dough to get the ball differential and a cheap motor, but when I have my next 40$ worth of allowance, then I’m getting a nelly (that’ll eat up about $30) and the 35T from Mini-Z workshop. :smiley2:
Edited by – Charlie Brown on 14 July 2004 03:30:52
Quote:Slippage inside the stock diff???There should be zilch slippage whatsoever…..
I guess that thing would be close on 40 k’s??
Well, there was some slippage with the 6T pinion, when I moved up to 11T, there was less….but I still need a ball diff anyways.
I think I may have already damaged my FET stack..when I resoldered on the motor hookup wires (I need stronger ones that won’t break damnit!!) and gunned the throttle with my finger on the FETs….they got really hot and I almost burned my finger. However, I didn’t see any smoke coming from them, so hopefully my FETs are ok…
Now to get this mutha crackin, I need a ball differential, a motor (current one went bust on me again :dead:), and maybe some more FETs just in case…
Quote:nelly transformed me from a 97 pound weakling into a 97 pound weakling with a bitchin’ turbo!!:D:8ball:I’m a 180 pound fatass, I wonder if W.N. will make me a 180 pound fatass with one damn fast iwaver Mini-Z! 😀
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