HACHI-RYOKU
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Now????
Sorry all. I’ll try to fix this later. Is anybody else having this problem too?
I know we don’t like to see he same stuff over and over again, but I just wanted to show off my Lambo, because I did reduce alot of weight from it. I’m sure I could reduce more but it’s already very fast. I wasn’t really trying to reduce weight, I was just trying to make an internal dual cell that I could fit the Lambo on.
Sorry if they’re dificult to see. I used my cell phone camera.
Notice that I cut some out of the middle compartment so the pcb would sit lower.
file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/BOB/My%20Documents/My%20Pictures/Mini%20car%20stuff/a0007390.jpg
I cut out the space between the motor and the batt almost completely to let the batts sit back a little farther. It’s great for balance.
Edited by – HACHI-RYOKU on 13 December 2003 01:46:57
Yes! dual cells are definately worth trying! You’ll see when you get it going. It’s a little better with certain cars. For example, I know “Cyclona” cars make sucky duall cells, because the pcb is crap. Too many high resistance components. Original bits are very good. I’m sure you could ask around for other good cars to dual cell also.
Although, if you have a clone that doesn’t get a large increase in speed, then I would sugjest sending it to microamps for fet modding. Any car for that matter. Original bits included. The torque increas you get from his mod is unreal. I use dual cell cars with the fet mod (and 3:1 gears) and the performance is a little mind blowing. I need about a good 20 feet to race with someone. They’re so fast that small race courses don’t pull out the full potential.
The best place I’ve found for batteries is “Toyeast”. I live in Japan though, so the shipping is cheap for me. It might be a lot more for you. Look for 200mah nimh batts. There only a few (u.s.) dollars each. Although I will say that regular stock nicad batteries are still just as fast. nimh batts just last longer. Although you wont notice unless you have a way to charge them up all the way.
If it was nicads, then it doesn’t surprise me.
I just remembered something. Don’t use batteries from different makers. They may not work well together. Try the same thing with same type batteries. I.E. tomy stock + tomy stock, or panther stock + panther stock, or even better 200mah nimh + 200mah nimh. Don’t mix nicads with nimh either.
Edited by – HACHI-RYOKU on 12 December 2003 23:46:49
Thanx icebreaka!
No, the batts don’t get hot. Just the pcb. Right around where the chip is. It may actually be the chip. Yeah, I’m kinda thinkin I need around 5~5.5 volts to charge it. But I’m not certain.
Hey leonli, I looked at your Gallery. Nice pics. Where did you get that Skyline that you’re comparing to the bit Skyline? What is it? How does it drive?
It works!! I’m having problems charging it though. Nothing I have will properly charge it. I also don’t have a peak charger. Anybody have any quick and easy ideas. I tried a wall-mount with selectable voltage. It’s rated at 300ma, and can select any voltage 1.5~12 in incriments of 1.5.
If I do the math, then; 4 x 1.2 volt, 110mah batts = 4.8 volts, 110mah.
If I want a good charge I will need to select 4.5 volts at 300ma, right?
For time to charge; Then 110/300=.36 + 20%= about .43hours. Or about 26 minutes.
Well, when I put it on the charger the pcb gets extremely hot. Why???!!!
If I set the voltage down to 3 volts, it doesn’t get hot, but I dont think it will charge. After about 10 minutes it only twiches a little.
And of course, if I set the voltage to 6 volts it just gets hot faster.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.Remember also, if you’re using nimh, then the batts hold in the heat where a nicad pushes the heat out. So, if your nicads get warm, it just means they’re done or close to done. If a nimh gets warm, then that means the inside is cooked and it was already done way before. Don’t wait for nimh to get warm. Just test with run times for best performance. Cooking the inside of a nimh will reduce it’s life-span as well as lower the volts and ma (current) it puts out. May also make batts (almost all batts can explode with enough heat) explode. The good thing is that they are pretty resiliant and you’ll have to do some serious cooking to see negative results. Most bad nicad & nimh will work normally if you fully charge and discharge it about 4 times in a row.
AH-HA! Stupid me. Thanx though.
Panda, or anybody with ideas, what’s this polishing business? Polishing ideas? Diferent aproaches? I’m curious. Never polished a paint job. Is it like polishing shoes?:p
You get 4 & 1/2 stars for that body. Nice work.
Edited by – HACHI-RYOKU on 10 December 2003 14:57:45
I picked up something similar while I was in Hawaii. I think it had “Hot wheels” written on the box. They are pretty fast out of the box. Definately faster than a premodded bit. They are dual cell, but they’re the 1/4aaa, not the 1/3aaa. It also has good range. Mine came with a pickup truck of some sort for a body. It’s pretty ugly. I just picked it up to see what was inside. I’ll have to give it 4 gold stars overall for the actuall electronics, but a 1/2 star for the bodies.
Hey CrazyDave, this polishing that you do. Why do you do it? I’m not keen on body work. Most of the body work I do is just guesses.
I picked up a digital speed checker and some straight track (to keep it going straight) for test runs…….when it works………if it works.:sad:
I guess if it goes up in smoke, then that would be cool too.:evil:
Not with the mosfet modded board. It’s got much more torque than the average duck. I haven’t put a low gear ratio in yet.
I’ve already done some test for speed. Nothing major, but it has no problem taking off. Also, it’s only 4.8 volts (1.2 x 4 = 4.8). Thanx for the warning though.
With the dual cell/fet modded bit, it takes about a 1~2 feet (maybe less) to go from 0 to top speed, IF you have the stock 8:1 gears.
This is one I did with the clear coat from Tamiya.
Took me a little while, but I figured out how to get my pics on the forum. I’m a bit of a knuckle-head on a computer.
That’s outstanding work ph2t, as always.
I used Tamiya clear coat recently. I liked the shine it put on the car, but if you look real close you can see little pot holes. Can’t notice it at a distance though.
Thanx everyone.
About the straight line thing. I’ll just have to worry about that when I get to it. First I gotta get the car running. I know it will be difficult, if not impossible. I use alot of duall cell/fet modded cars and I can tell you they take a lot of tweaking to get it to run straight and then some more to keep it that way. But I have learned that the lower gear ratios will help. A duall cell/ fetted car is almost impossible to get straight acceleration with 9:1 gears. Now take that car and throw on the 3:1. It will run much smoother, as well as you’ll turn all that extra torque into speed. Who knows,.. Maybe with 4 cells and a fetted board it will take a 1:1 gearing. Gotta learn how to make one of those first though.
I’ll see if I can’t get some pictures up tonight.
Edited by – HACHI-RYOKU on 09 December 2003 14:32:15
Well, I’ve been a ghost for a while. Sorry, I haven’t been neglecting the mod, I’ve just been busy. I just got married to my wonderfull seductress. Needless to say, I haven’t had much time on the computer. I have been keeping at the mod though.
So far I have one pcb that the car fried, and a score of others that just didn’t work. The fried pcb is fixable. I just need to replace the steering transistor.
Most of the pcbs have the same symptoms. Some functions work, but others don’t. For example, the forward works, but not the reverse. Or the same with steering, right works, but not left. I know it’s not my soldering skills either. So I have a feeling 4 x 1.2volts in series is just to much for mosfeted pcbs. I’m going to keep trying even though I’ve about lost patience. My next pcb will probably come from the type III super perfection cars. Anybody have one and think this is a bad idea? Mine hasn’t come in the mail yet.There is a cop car available as a bit. It doesn’t have flashing lights, but I was just mentioning it in case you want to use that body. I don’t remember who makes it but I can find out if you are interested.
The supers don’t use a crystal, they use a potentiometer wraped with enamled wire. I did replace the pcb’s on several. You loose the higher torque characteristics when you loose the super pcb, but you can get it all back and more with the mosfet mod.
I’m actually interested in this idea myself, but haven’t really come up with any good ideas. I did see someone do this type of mod before though. They took a bit steering compartment, hacked it off and replaced the pullbacks front with the bits front. He said it worked pretty good. I don’t think it really gave him any speed increase though.
Or you could place a small piece of hard foam under the motor and set the wire directly on that. The motor pushed against the foam is like a spring. Don’t glue where the exposed wires are though. Glue the wires down from a different spot. I did this with one of my cars. I cut the foam so it would fit perfectly and then glued it down. I actually use softer foam in other parts of the cars too. It helps with conductivity when you don’t want to solder wires. More so with batteries, because they can explode or diminish in performance if you apply too much heat.
I have some thoughts.
Twizm- Even with dual-cells I reduce weight. Besides some of the other suggestions, I cut some of the battery compartment’s walls down (this gets the weight lower too, wich will help keep it upright). Not all the way because I still want it to hold stuff, but they don’t need to be that high. I also use a dremmel or a file to make the plastic thinner, especially on the bottum and especialy with the super bit’s bottums. DO NOT put holes in the steering compartment. It will allow metal shards to collect on the magnet inside, witch will weaken the steering and eventually stop it from steering completely. You’ll have to clean it all the time to fix this.
Jeff03- Sounds like you’ve got a monster. Have you tried putting a 3:1 gear ratio on there? It will turn all that torque into speed and bring the front back down. I see that you are in Italy. In Japan we have these things called “bit racers”(TOMY) that come with 3:1 gears. They work great in those “monsters”. They have them in America too, but htey are called “kit racers” there.
Actually, I had this problem with a car that I fet modded. Of course check the other stuff first.
The same symptoms happend to me. I don’t know why, but I have an idea. After a couple smacks into a wall I think a piece of solder from one component started touching another component. I think I know witch one it is.
I can’t post a pic (I’m not sure why), but take a look at a recent post called “2speed”. It has to do with a question about wire placement. Anyhow, if you look at the picture of the pcb I will point out where the solder may have started touching.
All right, at the top right of the pcb, there is one of the fets (black rectangle). Across from that is a diode (orange tubular thingy with two white stripes). See the solder? Is it touching? That would be a short. If you can seperate it, then go for it. If not, then don’t touch it.
After that, the other possibility is that one of the fet’s connections came a little loose. You might be able to fix it by running a soldering iron over the solder spots where the fets have been placed. That will kind of stir the solder and reset it.
Micro-amps does some outstanding work with this stuff, real sturdy too, so I have a feeling that you may have smacked it just the right way and loosened a fet. I did order a fet modded car from micro amps and that thing is still running strong with no signs of fading out any time soon.
Good luck, and remember to check everything else first. I had a car that wouldn’t charge once. Ended up tearing apart a dual cell and disconnected all the wires, reconected them and placed two new batteries inside. Then I realized that it was the charger’s batteries. I had left it on for days. They were deader than a door nail.
Minor correction here, no big deal.
Edited by – micro_Amps on 13 November 2003 00:21:58
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