ph2t

[ph2t]

lol, you’re damn subtle brendan……

ph2t.

[ph2t]

I’m PM’ed Aaron about this, we’ll see what happens…………

[ph2t]

Quote:

does that guitar string antenna work well?

Yes, very well. For more info see my “guitar string antenna” thread in the technical section.

ph2t.

[ph2t]

I found a photo, here you can see the lights only coming out the front.

ph2t.

[ph2t]

The “lazy arvo” video is now my screensaver at work, lol!

[ph2t]

That’s true. As I stated in the thread, the photos above are of the mock-up version. When I paint the insides, you don’t see the bonnet lit up at all. I’ll get a photo of my knight rider car tonight and I’ll show you. Also look at the video posted in “lazy afternoon and a 3.8” you can see that the lights light up the area in front of the car only, no where else. Very nice…..

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Got the Porsche 911 (27Mhz, Chan B) and here’s my observations:

. Front and back rims are equal in diameter (thi changes from car to car though)
. Tyres are softs, not med’s like original bcg
. Range is crap, like less than 2 meters (6ft)
. Last command is “remembered” when going out of range, makes it hard to controll well.
. Car keeps it’s charge very well. I can pickup where I left off from hours ago and the car still runs.
. Can’t do an internal dual cell to the chassis due to a smaller body cavity.

My overall view is that it is no good. Save your money and just get the pullbacks for the shells.

I have heard that the 40Mhz versions are better with their range and that they don’t suffer from the “last command remembered” issue.

(deflated) ph2t.

[ph2t]

Well here’s some new video, with some very dodgy camera techinique.

Here’s the video(divx)

MPEG version

ph2t.

Edited by – ph2t on 05 August 2003 14:21:13

Edited by – ph2t on 05 August 2003 15:19:39

[ph2t]

lol, yeah….

[ph2t]

Here’s the same video in MPEG format. You shouldn’t have any problems with codecs for this.

ph2t.

Edited by – ph2t on 05 August 2003 10:40:27

[ph2t]

Thanks fellas! I wanna see more aussie entries nextime! Good to see Barto and Brendan representing the home turf, where’s the rest of you lot!?…..

:approve:

ph2t.

[ph2t]

*class chimes in….*

Thankyou uncle Barto…….

😀

ph2t.

[ph2t]

*class chimes in….*

Thankyou uncle Barto…….

😀

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Just got my 911 today.:p Time permitting I’ll post a review tonight….

[ph2t]

Just got my 911 today.:p Time permitting I ll post a review tonight….

[ph2t]

That 3 wheeled car in Mr. Bean….

[ph2t]

Get yer hand off it Shypo…. I still owe you a few 4 letter words from the other night, lol.

[ph2t]

yup.

barto is cool, he knows I was j/k.
😀

[ph2t]

My old 1973 toyota corolla, I never wanna see that in 1/64 scale. If I did, I’d step on it as fast as a fly on sh**.

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Quote:

Lets all play nice peeps…..

bugger that……

ph2t.

[ph2t]

The race is on!

[ph2t]

The race is on!

[ph2t]

Most times Shypes the voltage of the batt (1.2V) is too low to power most LED’s (Assuming the_bit is talking led’s here). I *think* the lowest voltage is about 1.6V (for a red LED) the highest I’ve seen is 3.6V for some ultrabright blue LED’s.

The most popular is to use a 3V lithium battery and wire the leds to that. Although ideally you should also wire in a 220Ohm resistor to limit current to the LED’s.

I’ve been building DCDC converters that take the 1.2V from the bar’s batt and raise it up to 5V, very handy for driving those LED’s. And it runs off the car batt so no replacing the lithium battery.

If there’s enough interest I might bring out my own headlight kit based on these dcdc converters….

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Pics have been posted, you can see them HERE.

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Dang man that’s some mad work right there. Makes me wanna buy a Z just to put lights on it, lol!

ph2t.

[Author]

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