ph2t
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“fast” is a product of the motor’s torque and it’s ability to get over any drivetrain resistance.
What would be a fast, low wind motor, most likely has no balls…Therefore the actual fast speed could easily be shit in comparison to it’s higher turn brethren..
ATM parts are generally good. I’ve had some bad luck though with a few parts, but that was 1.5 – 2 years ago so I can’t remember what parts they were! lol….
lol @ jimmy with the uber late comments. Bet Bet you still got the car? I’m thinking of a reprise of the concrete racing “schedule”, lol….
my lipo powered mini-z monster ran out of track at TFTR (templestowe track) and got air, went through the bushes and stopped a few meters short of a major road….*whew*
z-beam, I got a couple of these fellas and really like them. There’s a few cheap on ebay at the ‘mo so Ive got more comming in, lol….
here’s some info I found out: http://bitpimps.lixlink.com/pages/phpForum/viewtopic.php?t=9709
cheers.
prolly be easier to rename the digi-q forum, lol…
Just a warning to those who want to use brushless motors in their Z’s. Get fully %100 sealed ones. My very @#$% expensive @#$% motor, siezed the @#$% up on me due to @#$%^ dirt getting in those !@#$% air vents at the rear of the can…..
arghhhhhhhhh…….
@jollyboss 226476 wrote:
Just a question to ph2t: don’t you have any interference trouble due to the esc close to rx?
Thanks!Not at all mate. Be it my FM mr-02 “brushed” car or this brushless version. Either setups don’t get any interference.
What’s the tyres like? Rubber? plastic? How would these fair on your typical table top?
Sorry mate, been there done that. Only the plasma has the freakishy large comm. 🙁
@Dangerous Dave 226360 wrote:
In keeping with my trend of being years behind the :8ball: , I have just installed a Plasmatomic hybrid motor in the NanoRacer (with 3×2 FET stack).
It’s pushing an alloy 10T pinion.
This motor is phenomenal.
Again, many praises to Ph2t for pioneering the Plasmatomic.I now have a busted H plate from clipping a curb at ridiculous speed, lucky I have spares!
And I have no desires to go for 7.4V LiPo batteries, this thing is almost too fast on 4 cells…I have noticed that my steering power disappears under throttle, so the next mod will be a Steering Turbo using the original motor FETs.
Will put up another rambling post when I get that done.PS the Iwaver I-Plus motor was fast, but it only lasted a few runs before it chewed out its comm and the brass brushes snapped off. Cheap thrill.
lol, it’s great to see that 2 years on and the plasmatomic is still owning concrete driveways everywhere!
Dave, just make sure you have seated the bearing in the endbell deep enough to prevent any biding from the larg(ish) plasmadash armature in the ATOMIC can. This is the #1 source of plasmatomic build woes.
Just out of interest are you running neo’s or the original plasma dash ferrites? (The plasma dash ferrites are the strongest ferrites I’ve come across). By the sounds of a 10t pinion you’re running neos. Try 6t pinion and ferrites, the speed is crazy as well!
Also, the steering drop under accel is iwaver way of things. Using a small motor drive IC instead of a proper MOSFET h-bridge is what causes the slow steering. It’s just not efficient enough so when a lot of the current goes to the drive motor the ineffeciencies show through.
If you want I have a kyosho PCB I could sell you for cheaps….PM me if interested…..
Good stuff!
ph2t.
Won’t fit down there. Keep in mind I need to be able to switch the ESC out of circuit to enable the USB program interface to work. I tried with the ESC connecte to the RX and it’s a no go….
OK, I’ve started on the setup that will enable me to program the mamba-25 esc without haveing to remove it. Pretty much it involves a simple switch that is put in between the ESC and the RX. This way when I need to program the ESC I just switch it out of circuit and that will ensure the USB program inteface all works OK.
Here’s a simple diagram of what I’m talking about:
The challenge is finding a switch small enough. I decided to hack an 8 pin DIL switch by chopping off one of the 4 SPST switches and leaving it with 3. One switch for each wire (GND, V+ & Signal). I then soldered this onto a small 3 pin terminator strip that I had also cut down to size. The goal being to mount it up the front somewhere….. That bit is still being worked on….
More to come…..
@Dangerous Dave 226355 wrote:
well done on such a neat conversion 😀
ta muchly!
@klims 226354 wrote:
nice work mate! really impressed with the size of that thing.
are you getting killer long run times?
at the moment I’m still er, um “debugging” it, lol….. Seems to want to cog like there’s no tomorrow. Went to gaycar today and bought some small as dil switches and some plugs, gonna make a connector to allow me to plug int he USB interface so I can program the ESC via the PC. Up untill now I have been programming the ESC via the beep/TX method but the full command set is only avail via the USB. To do this the ESC must be taken out of circuit from the rest of the ‘tronics (RX, Servo). It doesn’t work to try and program the ESC when you have it still conenected to the RX.
Just gotta find the bloody space to do this in!
Yeah, all I needed was to have another kid to find the time, lol…….
OK. Finally got this new motor into the chassis. The motor has a lot of drag, I think it was originally intended for a small heli conversion, not sure exactly. Given the drag I needed to make sure that my TX was set to +1 for throttle when in the neutral position. I seem to of been lucky, at this setting it’s not enough to go forward constantly but enough to stop the drag from kicking in at 0 throttle.
Took it out for a spin on the concrete driveway and it works well. So happy to be back in a MM config again and with a motor now that ISN’T 6 times heavier than a stock 130, lol…. (see previous RM attempt).
The acceleration is quite strong, faster than my 36t pattern wound motor I’ve got from flash (best off the mark accel motor I have, and I’ve got lots!). This is to be expected though. The Razor 300 is meant to be a replacement for a Speed 300 sized motor so you can see that it has some balls.
I put on a 9t pinion and on 4 cells the speed is comparable to the PN saber. It’s just what I wanted. The high 4900Kv rating of this particular motor is a nice sweet spot (on 4 cells). As I mentioned very early on in this thread, the goal is to make a comparable racer based on brushless, not to make a crazy speed machine (did I just say that? lol…..).
Anyways, next step is to fine tune the setup. I need to get the oil damper back on, may change to a thinner CF h-plate, rebuild the front end (concrete dust is a @#$%^) and FINALLY get that lovely MM shell I’ve got for it (RIP audi DTM, lol….).
More to come!
ph2t.
OK, bit of an update now. Hopefully I will have this running within the next couple of days….
Mid-Mount brushless is on it’s way!!
The motor is an RZ-300 brushless motor by Razor Motors.
You can purchase it from here: http://www.neumotors.com/20061222/Razor%20Motors.htmlThe specs of the motor are as follows:
– 2mm shaft (yay!)
– 4900Kv Rating
– 27g weight
– 28mm long x 20mm dia.Here’s another picture showing the fitment in the PN Racing (low CG) MM mount.
It’s using an 8t pinion at the moment. I’ll see how it goes with this. May be a bit
slow on 4 cells but we’ll see. The Kv of this motor is higher than the first version so
that should help offset some of my speed concerns.I had to do a fair bit of filing on the alloy to get the bugger to fit.
I did manage to get both screw mount holes in this time so it’s nice and
stable (unlike the first RM version that only had the single screw mount!).I managed to keep all the alloy in one piece without breaking the structure in any
part. This was a risk associated with going down this path.I’m just happy I got the buger in. Next step is to wire it up to the chassis and
mount the rear assemble and test it out!My only concern is that this particular brushless motor has a fair bit of drag when
off. I will see if the mamba-25 esc can help me with this, or if it’s just a case setting
the throttle neutral point on my TX.More to come! With a new (poor poor) shell too!
ph2t.
Hey Jolyboss. Due to the simple steering “h-bridge in a chip” system on the iwavers you really can’t go above 4.8V. You will fry the steering motor chip if you do so. You can stop this by placing a 2-3Ohm resistor in series with the steering motor when driving the PCB on 6cells nimg or 2S li-ion/poly.
As for amps, nothing below 40 – 45 turns on 4.8V.
cheers,
ph2t.
I…..can’t….breath……..
Classic standup!
There a no mini-z/1:18/indoor foam/carpet tracks to my knowledge…. 🙁
I bloody well wish there was.
the ball diff.
the one way is more tuned toward racing.
cheers.
it could be worse, he could be civil. lol…
I’m pretty sure you get 10, from the looks of it.
as for 010 drifting, what surface you doing it on? the drift tyres are basically plastic so they’re super slipery.
otherwise if on concrete try a really soft rubber (< 30 deg) on front and rear, that will break traction quite easily.
I think an aggresive camber is also good for drifting along with the stock (0 deg) offset. I’m not sure though, it ain’t my specialty, lol…
yes, again from Cowboysir from GSR.
Quote:aparently it all fits, you need to mod the shock mount though since the motor gets in the way.
the other benefit is that it’s lighter a well.
it’s the RZ MICRO model:
Quote:RZ-Micro Car
The RZ-Micro-Car is designed for micro RC cars like the HPI Micro RS4. the motor uses the big block mounting plate, with very minor modifications. You need to drill out the single hole to 5/32.Kv: 5650
Io: 0.70A
Rm: .075
Weight: 27g
Length:
(w/o shaft) 27.8mm -
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