ph2t

[ph2t]

Well, I’ve got to do some errands today so I may just pop in and scope it out!

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lol. Well, what nights do you guys go? I gotta bust out the rigs again…

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Betty, why didn’t you call me?????????????

PRICK! 🙂

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Do my eyes decieve me? A micro rc track here? in Melb?

Betty, you still in BH? We gots to catch up and bust out the z’s by the sound of it? Or your new life no longer micro rc compatible? lol, mine barely is!

cheers,

ph2t.

[ph2t]

@jimmy 227250 wrote:

pht2 have u seen this 65075 rpm at 4.8v 6.86 amp draw
http://www.pimpmymod.com/index_files/Page2500.htm

Yeah, I’ve seen that stuff mate. The xmod scene in the US sort of made for crazy motor sales. Most of these motors are bastardised mini4WD motors from Audely and other chinese oem’s…..

Motors like these were a good example of the differences in an xmod enthusiast and a mini-z enthusiast.

Xmod drivetrains are like a solid night of ACDC on the stereo pumping at 11 on the dial…..

Mini-z’s are more like the 3rd movement from Beethoven’s moonlight sonata, classic speed with nimble power…

Their owners are similar, lol….

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Yeah the pins hold the track barriers down but they don’t domuchmore than that. The barrier is quite flexible so in a real race it would be useless.

I got my foams from Clarke RUbber, they mesh well, no noticible bumps in the joins and stay flat on the concrete pretty well!

Goddam Freezing melb winter though…….makes night racing impossible in that cold bloody garage….

As for the leaks DD, you’re not too far off mate. On section is so “Qantas’ed”, lol that I need to cut all the rust out, put some mesh up and fill it in all around it…..

I ain’t the worlds best handyman, if it ain’t got batteries in it, I’m clueless….

lol….

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If I could only get the leaks out of the roof…….Still working on that!

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thanks Renton, you in Melb?

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Mad rig cowboy, looks like it can take a beating! The MLST2 is also a crazy strong chassis. Something to be said about the whole double deck chassis thing I guess….. 🙂

would love to see it in action, get that vid going! pronto!

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Here’s a small vid:

http://www.woahnelly.com/stuff/mr02/track_test_run1.wmv

Bluetak does wonders….. 🙂

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I’m using these split pins to just pin the siderail foam to the mats, so far it works. I got them from bunnings, a few bucks for a pack of 30. I’ve yet to run a car with a shell on the track but I think the rails can be run over so they might not be high enough, lol…

Bet Bet, I’m not too sure on the right tyre settings, but it’s all to do with soft rubber compounds, < 10deg usually. I'm running with a standard concrete setup: 20deg ATOMIC X patterns on the front and the GQ soft trued foams on the rear. With this setup it's like flies on shit, very stick, lots of oversteer it you're not too carefull.

As you said Kevsta, I’m finding the tile wide lanes hard to stay within myself! Might pop a stock motor in and see how it goes.

I’ve heard also that you have to wait for the dust on the mats to settle or something, maybe it was only to do with RCP, I’m not sure. Go figure. lol.

cheers,

ph2t.

[ph2t]

G’day! We used to goto tftr a bit, it’s concrete though so it’s pretty rough on the z’s. We could take it though! lol….. As for ma-010, you really need a nice, flat track.

I just went to clarke rubber today and spent $180 on foam and assorted bits ‘n pieces. I’ll let you decide what I’m doing with it……. 🙂

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Damn Big W, they’re some beautifull shots mate. Just hanging out in the parking lot or you studying there?

[ph2t]

Well. I figured out the problem and it was more of a design one than anything else.

This newer Razor Motor’s brushless motor I tried in the MM config had too much curent draw for 4 cell AAA to run on effectively.. Even my best set of AAA’s would result in the motor “dumping” after about 30 seconds of use.

Now this wouldn’t be a problem, just run it on the 400mAh 7.4V lipo “saddle pack” and it’s fine. Although shithouse run time. Besides I really want this conversion to run on 4 AAA’s. So there goes that idea.

Also this motor has an incredible amount of magnetic drag when not powered. Some brushless motors have this, some not. This is killa in an ’02 chassis. you need to be able to coast around corners under no/little acceleration. you can’t do this with this motor.

With the first motor I tried though, I can! 🙂

So time to revisit that first motor. I always thought it was too big for a MM setup (hence the RZ motor purchase) but given that I was now looking at an incredicbly hacked up PN racing alloy MM mount (for shame!) I thought I would give it a try.

Here’s a few mockup shots. Ain’t final yet…

The area circled below is the space I hope to make up. This will give clearance to an incredibly agitated left tyre, lol…

More alloy hacks, everything alloy inside of the yellow lines has got to go!

Here you can see all the offenders….

So, once this is mounted, I can put the top plate on and then figure out a way to install a shock 🙁 Don’t like my chances…Fingers crossed!

ph2t.

[ph2t]

White Auto scale, can’t remember the name of it, will find out…

Here’s a shot with the mounted foams.

chunky!

Had some “shell free” time on the concrete. Works well. Bounces a bit but that’s expected, all my other concrete rides are running oil shocks. works best for those cracks! lol…

I’m impressed with the 3010 stock mosfets. Best stock mosfets yet. Still lacked the punch that I’m used to, lol…….

The steering is quite responsive, bit too much in fact. Need to dial it down or adjust the tierod. I usually run a more toe out inclined front end on my other daily driver. seems to work well.

Now onto the shell…..

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Doubt it, although it would be very close!

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Just change the polarity of the wires, you’ll be fine. If you really want to keep them all the same then yes, swap over the magnets, it will reverse it again, I think!

[ph2t]

lol, good stuff…but you’re incorrect about one thing. The plasma dash will always be the bad boy! haha…

anyways, you’ve managed to do something I never did. I yried to find the elusive jet dash for while there on ebay. found some but the price was high (between 35 – 40AUD). this was a couple of years ago though.

What does the armature look like, got a cam Traveler? some photos of the guts would be cool. What’s the size of the commutator? is it like all the others in the 4WD family of motors?

I would do this:

jet dash arm.
polished (like a bloody mirror) comm
original jet dash magnets
pn bb can.
fresh set of carbon brushes
broken in fwd direction on 1.2V for 1 – 2 hours, dry.

that would be killa. 🙂

now put that in on the lowest pinion possible with the highest gear ratio and start there.

If you’re driving mainly RWD rigs then you don’t need the neo’s as exclusively. that’s what I reakon anyways. But you gotta start on the lowest pinion. The ferrite mags in the Jet Dash are meant to be IT. lol..

good luck dude.. 🙂

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Quote:

Why is it I can only find 2.4ghz conversion kits for the ma-010 and mr-02. It doesn’t seem to be any larger then a regular board will it not fit in an f1? does the f1 use a different servo?

The ASF PCB is smaller, because of this there a new PCB Cover plates. the awd and 02 are the most popular models, hence why the conversino kits come in these two variants. F1 is an OLD chassis, been around for a while. Never kit the popularity of the 02/awd.

Quote:

Is it worth going the 2.4ghz conversion?
what benefits am i going to see other than having no frequency worries?

The fets on the newer boards at the 3010’s. They can take more and are the best stock msofet performers yet. The new TX is visual death but is meant to be lighter and more responsive.

[ph2t]

Good stuff mate! Happy to see the old motor tutorials still finding some use after so many years!

My only advice Traveler is that you start out on the lowest pinion. See how you find the temperature of the uberdash and then work your way up from there.

I take it you’re running the AWD kit in that gen1?

cheers,

ph2t.

[ph2t]

always! 😉

[ph2t]

done some more work. 🙂

got a lot of stock stuff still on it. scrounging around for parts to build a complete ball diff, lol….
the motor is a 33t PN one, in an old can that even has re-soldered side tabs, lol, that’s how slutty it is!

Anyways, the setup is getting there. stock tierod (from the tierod kit , hence the colour), stock steering knuckles. I may put a set of kyosho 40 deg radials on the front in the future, currenty I have put on a new crazy soft arse set of ATM 30 deg crosstrainers, lol…..the soft rubber goes well with more aggresive camber, I think the stock knuckles may make the understeer too lenient. the 40deg kyosho radials will definately “bite” more into the concrete.

rear rims are yet to be done, they’ll be GQ medium mini-z donuts, professionally trued of course…. 🙂
stock diff. will keep it like that for now.

Here’s a few more pictures….

oh, and I love my w910i 🙂

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Quote:

These have just been released in japan. 2.4 ghz, built-in transponder, lipo powered.

and effen awesome!

Talldude, I don’t think they’re out yet mate. Congrats on the house purchase!

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phantom shutdown? oh shit….

The RC retail scene in Melb is pathetic. Held together by a bunch of old farts that have no idea how to market or promote the scene.

The scene here really needs someone with some real business know how and marketing skills to get this shit of the ground.

All the shops are independent of each other, have no advocacy group and are more interested in playing with their HO scale balls than anything else.

Far as I see it, they lost to the online scene a long time ago which is a real pity.

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Thanks for the 2 cents cowboy! Happy you gots my pm mate.

cheers,

ph2t.

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