pimpsmurf

[pimpsmurf]

My Nelly Deluxe is going on my MZM, and I’m going to put the Spider on the EVO. I know it will go on, but do we have any internal resistance info on the Evo FETS? I’m wondering how they stack up (please forgive) to the various FET boards. The Evo seems to have a whole lot of torque, which screams of pretty low resistance.

-JNY

[pimpsmurf]

Aaron,

What about the Evo?I’m wondering if the spider is better than a 2×2 stack of EVO FETs, and if there is wiring data out there.

kevsta:

There was this one time in church when I was a kid… People were doing what we in The South call testification. People are shouting ‘Jesus helped me stop smoking!’, ‘God helpedme not get angry at work!’, etc, etc. One dude jumped up and shouted ‘God to help me stop cheating on my wife.’

The pastor said solomnly, ‘I don’t think I would have shared that, Brother.’ True story, if only somewhat relevent.

-JNY

[pimpsmurf]

That really sucks. Too bad your not in louisianna, USA. Some people in New Orleans run a data center that does data recovery, and they were trading data recovery services over the internet (apparently, thier pipeline was *FAR* below ground) for supplies.

Have you thought about getting the information recovered? It’s possible they can take the tray out and get some or all of the info back.

Best of luck,

-JNY

[pimpsmurf]

The Evo suspension kit isn’t just a lift kit. it is a lift or drop kit. With such alow stock clearance, I am shocked dropping it would be an option. If the lift takes it above 5mm chassis lowest point clearance, then I will be one happy camper. Imagine riding over the smallest rocks and *NOT* doing a 50mph cartwheel…

-JNY

[pimpsmurf]

Yeah, I know it is a pipe dream betty.k, but I was hoping that the stage 3 evo kit would be a faster motor. Would it really be that hard to engineer a finned heatsink on some nice fets?

It would even give them an excuse for an alloy heatsink upgrade and possibly a fan upgrade.

I guess my heads in the clouds…

*EDIT* I do: http://www.atomicmods.com/projects/Evo%20Xmod/Evo_Xmod.htm

It uses the same style FETs it had before. lower CG front underside batteries, and 1 piece electronics. looks like my hunt for AAA li-ion or lipo cells that will fit inside a double AAA holder goes on.

*EDIT* I DONT! :o)

My wishlist for the new xmod was no tight turns needed, and upgraded electronics. I’ve got my wish. It is my belief that there is a metal finned heatsink under the area that says HOT in red on the top of the chassis. AM is probably withholding pictures so they can have the first machined alloy heatsinks on the market. And some evos are going to be on ebay in the next couple days. upgradekits already up. =)

also, he says they use two different types of mosfets and did not blow them until they ran 9 amps through the board. *tada.wav*

I’m hoping that this isn’t AM hype, but I guess we will have to wait and see (some more than others, apparently.)

-JNY

Edited by – pimpsmurf on 25 August 2005 13:32:33

[pimpsmurf]

Bigger tires and a body lift would make me happy with the hummer if it is: 4wd capable, the electronics have been upgraded to handle much better motors. It it isn’y engeneered to efficiently handle high current motors, I’m not going to be getting one.

-JNY

To get totally off topic, GAWD the E-Maxx is sexy!

[pimpsmurf]

sweetness. I can’t believe I blew $60 on kyosho-brand damper mounts when I could have had iwaver alloy for $20. =(

[pimpsmurf]

Both TXs have anti-skid brake functions, but neither RXs do.

-JNY

[pimpsmurf]

The Firelap 4.0 body works with the iwaver/kyosho/gpm alloy damper mounts.

The RX board on either does not have brake. It is TX controlled breaking. You would have to use the Firelap TX to get brakes (kyosho TX with firelap RX would go straight into reverse I think)

The steering on the kyosho is a little nicer. People have said the kyosho plastic is a little better too, but if you are upgrading to alloy, it’s less of a concern.

-JNY

[pimpsmurf]

AHH HA! I thought that was ‘The Way It Works'(tm)! So I can use that and get the same results as I would without the 5v regulator (meaning, it won’taffect the internal resistance of the FET at full throttle )

So with the setup I drew above, I will still have 7.4VDC hitting the motor, and be full throttle capable (ie. the lowest resistance in the FET turbo possible. Your the best!

Thanks for the great info!

-JNY

[pimpsmurf]

I thought they were enhancement mode FETs, whichI thoughtwould fully bypass the gate at a certain voltage. Your the expert though. if you say that it will decrease performance , maybe I can put a resistor inline with the servosomehow to cut down on the jitter. I need all the juice I can get. alloy is heavy! =)

*shrug*

-JNY

Edited by – pimpsmurf on 13 August 2005 06:30:02

[pimpsmurf]

I guess I was trying to go the easy way. Time to find some silicon! =)

*EDIT*

Here comes a question I’ll regret. I apologize ahead of time.

I was going to use a radioshack 7805 +5v regulator with appropriate caps and aheatsink to attempt to run 5v to my MZM PCB and hook up the batteries directly to the spider. I drew a crude diagram in MS paint (don’t have any of my software on this machine yet.) The motor is left out of the picture.

What I wonder is, will the spider board still function the same as it would without? I mean, I don’t know if it would make the spider unable to go into enhancement mode because the FETs are seeing different voltages across the gate and source. I admit that all I know about FETs I learned from a 20 page chapter in a book and forums, so try to go easy on me =)

I’m not even sure if it will work at all. The idea is to be able to run lipos and regulate the voltage to the mainboard to 5vdc so that I loose the servo jitter and promote the lifetime of the board. Of coarse, performance in the main goal, so anything hindering it won’t happen.

-JNY

Edited by – pimpsmurf on 12 August 2005 10:01:37

[pimpsmurf]

I have a tiny alloy heatsink from radioshack that fits on the back of the board perfectly. Should I get some silicon and try to use arctic silver adhesive to mount directly to the chips? Or perhaps I should try to shoot some arctic silver thermal compound between the chips and the board, and mount the heatsink to the back of the board.

What I’m really trying to ask is, is the board a good enough conductor for my plasmatomic/uberdash with lithium power, or should I mount directly to the chips?

Thanks again,

-JNY

[pimpsmurf]

Those look hot! I hope they put out alloy with a quickness! I’m really looking forward to that. It looks very nice.

-JNY

[pimpsmurf]

I got my spider in today. You should include turbo_v1.jpg or some other info on where the wires go to from your PCB for us cheapos who bought the bare board! =)

There was probably a better way of saying that, but I’m off to install it!

-JNY

[pimpsmurf]

Does that make Jorgejss a ‘Trojan Man!’?

-JNY

[pimpsmurf]

Many have said that the iWaver oil shocks suck. leaky and such. Might be better with grease instead of oil, but I don’t plan on buying any and finding out otherwise.

I got my kyosho-brand front and rear damper mounts in today, and wow. They are really nicely done. The front one had a couple holes in it and I couldn’t quite figure out why in the world holes would be needed where they were, but they seem strong enough. I can’t bend them with my hands, but I’m a geek so that can be taken with a grain of salt.

The low-down shocks are FANTASTIC! I love them. Remember to order two sets of springs (it was a ‘DOH!’ moment for me), but they really drop it as much as you can go with full articulation, and if I’m correct, the ‘soft’ springs in the set are actually a little harder than the stock springs. Plus, with oil shocks and a LSSM mod, you can get wicked clearance and articulation. I’m planning to go LSSM with my old stock dampers. I’m really impressed with the aftermarket kyosho products. Well worth the extra cash over the gpms. Now I don’t have to hack the hell out of it like ph2t did!

I’m working on a design for an aluminium ‘racing’ main chassis. It is going to be 1-piece billet from a local C&C shop. When I get the design finished, I will get production costs worked out, take some orders (at cost) and release the AutoCAD file to the public. I really want to get rid of the last piece of plastic (I hope) that I’ll have on my MZM. I’ve yet to get my alloy order in from HK, so I’m not sure if I will still have plastic on the model. Hopefully $300 in GPM will get rid of all the plastic. No point in just moving the stress points around and replacing different parts.

The order should be here by next tuesday (maybe tomorrow!), so I will definately post pictures when I get it together.

BTW, it is kind of pointless to order a titanium screw set with full alloy… another ‘DOH!’ moment.

-JNY

[pimpsmurf]

they are on firelap.com, which is sort of just a placeholder.

In stock form, the new O4.

-JNY

[pimpsmurf]

Yet another question. I know ph2t is exhausted, so if anyone knows what brand of lipo pack he got to fit in between the battery clips like that, I would be greatly appreciative.

Thanks!

-JNY

[pimpsmurf]

The firelap 4.0 does have the same body mounting brackets as the MZM, so aftermarket alloy won’t be a problem (get the kyosho shock mounts!!! They own! The low-down shock (mmw14?) are also the shiznit. I’m gonna have to sell the two rear alloy and 1 front alloy damper mount I bought on ebay and get those kyosho ones and the lowdowns w/ springs. I’ll keep the oil-filled for ‘offroading’… lol. as if. This thing can’t handle much more grass than freshly-cut fairways on the golfcoarse. I recommend using the bushings in the grass too. Even gunbutter didn’t keep my bearings from blowing out.

-JNY

[pimpsmurf]

5) find out if it will blow up with 3.6v lipo power

-JNY

P.S. My girlfriend wants more picturesbetty.k!

[pimpsmurf]

ausmicro has the ‘New I-waver 04’. It is called the ‘Bigfoot’. It comes with the phatty oil-filled shocks. Now all I need is some different springs and I will be set. I have full alloy coming (every damned thing), oil-filled shocks, titanium screws & main gear, and a clear chassis, etc, etc…

If I can get my lipos on here somehow and drop this sucker, I will have a sweet ride. I guess I’m going to go with Ph2t’s drop (screws and shock mount mods). The only thing I forgot to order from rcmart.com was the spring set for the oil shocks I ordered from ausmicro.com. Sucks, but I guess the stock ones will cut it for now. I’ll just be happy to get rolling again as I couldn’t brake fast enough and ran into my garage. Snapped the knuckle and re-injured the rear lower sus-bar. sucks ass.

In all honesty, I would recommend getting the $40 firelap from ebay, and ordering upgrades for it. you will need a body if you upgrade the shock mounts, but it will be worth it. (Firelap bodies look ugly in the pictures I’ve seen.)

Which reminds me, that I ordered the wrong damper mounts. I got the gpm, not kyosho mounts (kyosho mounts have 3 mounting holes for the springs to assist in dropping the car. son of a bitch.)

-JNY

[pimpsmurf]

The ‘New I-waver 04’ Has oil shocks stock. Very cool. The Firelap 4.0 is what they now call the older iwaver 04 IIRC. It is basically the same as the MZM. I believe it has different body mounts, so if you go alloy, you will need a MZM body. you can get MZM Bodies (I’m getting the Mad Killer White body to paint!)

It seems that I’m wrong a lot though.

-JNY

[pimpsmurf]

I already ordered mine. Should be here next week! 🙂

-JNY

[pimpsmurf]

Ph2t mentioned using a 16t pinion on his old MZM. Does that work with the stock main gear? Where did he find it?

Thanks!

-JNY

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