Admin

[Admin]

Darryl, it’s asking you to log in as a “member” of the site. All you need to do is go to the main page of the ‘Lair, and click on the “Join Now” link. Don’t worry–it’s free and easy. If you keep having problems, let me know. For the next couple days, email (or this board) will probably be the quickest way for me to get back to you.

[Admin]

zeroBXU,

I went to your site and clicked on ‘Downloads’ but it’s asking for a username and password. Is one needed to download files?

Darryl

[Admin]

No problem. Microsoft gives me 30 MB to play with, and I’ve used just over 1 MB so far.

+the price is right: it’s free.

-it’s a “Microsoft Community” site, with all those great little ads and pop-up ads hard-wired in.

[Admin]

Thanks for the explanation!

Cheers

[Admin]

Thank you for doing a mirror!

Aarons wallet and my wallet collectively thank you

Cheers

[Admin]

And to ease some of the bandwidth demands off AUSMICRO, the sameJPEG advertising barrier files are availablefrom The Admiral’s LairDownloads page, as well.

[Admin]

Quote:

Originally posted by Derek on 30April2002

Derek’s Useless Fact of the Day : It was designed for the movie industry to allow stage electricians to tape up HUGE bundles of lighting cables from the ceiling AND tape down stray cables running along the floor. The fabric gives huge strength/low-stretch properties while making the tape VERY hard-wearing (can withstand weeks of constrant trampling). It’s also the reasonHead Electricians in movie credits are called “GAFFER”.

Well, if you had said “gaffer”, I would have figured it out–that’s my favorite guy in the movie, next to the Key Grip.

Oh – that foam/paint is a bloody good buy. Mind shipping me over, say twenty 4’x8′ sheets? Hehehehehe…..

Sure–just as soon as I get your FedEx number.

[Admin]

ROTFL @ ZeroBXU Gaffa/Gaffer Tape is thich DUCT tape with a fabric inside. Oh – and it’s actually a North American thing, I believe! Refer this google link if you get really keen.

Derek’s Useless Fact of the Day : It was designed for the movie industry to allow stage electricians to tape up HUGE bundles of lighting cables from the ceiling AND tape down stray cables running along the floor. The fabric gives huge strength/low-stretch properties while making the tape VERY hard-wearing (can withstand weeks of constrant trampling). It’s also the reasonHead Electricians in movie credits are called “GAFFER”.

…and there endeth today’s educational section

Oh – that foam/paint is a bloody good buy. Mind shipping me over, say twenty 4’x8′ sheets? Hehehehehe…..

Keep us all informed of your progress!

Cheers

[Admin]

Well, I picked up a 4’x8’x1″ piece of styrofoam, two cans of spray paint (flat black and deep forest green), a hacksaw blade, and “duck” tape. Total cost: $11.47 USD.

…but it was an adventure. I just drove my little Hyundai to the store, and had to cut the styrofoam sheet–myself–in the store!!! So I founda piece of 2’x4′ plywood, used that to scribe a line with my pocketknife, and then just snapped it in three places–nearly clean. Next problem was the tape. Nobody in this super-mega-building supply store had any clue what “gaffa tape” was. I worked in building materials for over three years and I didn’t know! So I went with this “duck” tape that’s 2″ thick. It should be fine for what I’m doing. Now I’ve got to find my old drafting compass and clean up the cuts on the styrofoam, and I’m ready to go!

“Gaffa tape”. You crazy Australians have a different word for everything. Of course, as Derek will attest, I say “crazy Aussies” with the greatest respect. In other news, my two limited edition Skylines came today and I haven’t even had time to pull them out of the box. Such is life.

[Admin]

Audiboy

My email address is derek@ausmicro.com. I always read/respond to the emails that I receive, however, please keep technical enquiries on the board as others might benefit from seeing the questions/answers you generate.

The instant messaging clients that I use are ICQ (UIN 20511045) and MSN Messenger (USER derek@clubduh.com). Sorry – no AIM at this stage. Keep in mind the time difference between Australia and the USA when trying to contact me…. I’m not ‘always’ N/A…. trust me.

I’m scheduling a project for this weekend (sorry – gotta do some *real* work during the week) to do a detailed photo set and schematics for everyone’s reference. Hope that will be timely enough for you to make use of with your current problem….

Cheers

[Admin]

My friend broke one side of his steering after half an hour of playing with his char g yesterday! One of the tiny wires for the coils came off, I think if you look on the PCB you’ll find they are marked L and R…..left and right obviously. Just carefully solder the appropriate wire back on to its spot on the PCB, be careful, tin the wire first and put the wire on top of the pad, then hold the soldering iron on top of it for only a second or else it is very easy to damage the rest of the PCB.

Hope this is what you’re after.

[Admin]

yes if u can supply it for me

thanks man whats your email and do u have aol messenger

[Admin]

Hey ya Audiboy

You have disconnected the PCN completely? Do you need the wiring diagram for the PCB and steering assembly?

Will do my best to help.

[Admin]

I have a honda s2000 and i worked on the front end and now the wheels dont turn at all and those pcb are disconnected and i need to know how to put them back

[Admin]

Aquila

> how did you achieve the ‘texture’ on the

> actual track surface?

I’d like to be able to say that it was achieved after weeks of scientific research, discussions with chemists and paint manufacturers, and hard work by a dedicated team of specialists who applied the surface.

Ahem. Let the truth be known – it was just how the polystyrene surface turned out after being given about 8-10 really thin coats?from water-based enamel can spraypaint.

ZeroBXU

> I’m going out to buy the materials for the track

> tonight,

Like most things, I’m guessing the materials will cost a LOT less in the USA. We get hit pretty hard here in Australia

> and I just had an “enhancement” idea I thought

> I’d share. To add a little realism to my track,

> I’ll probably dry-brush some black into the

> advertising boards, just past the corners. This

> should give a fairly accurate appearance of

> over-zealous drivers piling into the wall at speed.

OMG!?? What a killer idea!? Just need to get some black modelling paint and a wee brush now!

Thanks

[Admin]

Derek,

I’m going out to buy the materials for the track tonight, and I just had an “enhancement” idea I thought I’d share. To add a little realism to my track, I’ll probably dry-brush some black into the advertising boards, just past the corners. This should give a fairly accurate appearance of over-zealous drivers piling into the wall at speed.

[Admin]

how did you achieve the ‘texture’ on the actual track surface?

-aquila

[Admin]

I had thought of wet/dry sandpaper too…but haven’t found enough of it cheaply..

imperial floor tile is just the description I got offof the box…I think it’s just plain old linoleum(sp?). it’s real flexible great racing surface, but a little problem prone (warping & cracking).

-aq out

[Admin]

Hey Martin

Firstly – DON’T apologise for asking questions 🙂 You have to learnsomehow, and if you don’t speak/read Japanese you HAVE to ask around.

Glad you’re having fun with the car. The drift kit IS a hoot one youget used to it

The booster cars are basically whole new setups. The only thing you can really keep from your existing setup is your fave shell. You MUST use the special 4Band/3ch controller and you must replace all of theinternal electronics.

At USD49.54 (AUD96.00) including EMS freight (and assuming you don’t get charged GST), the kit linked via http://www.toyeast.com/proddetail2.asp?pdtid=ATORC045 is a good buy if you wanted to grab one! Also see what Dozer can do for you, too.

Yep – all of the booster cars are GT-Rs, but the clear shell is just a gimmick, really, as most people will use their fave painted shell from their fleet.

Cheers

[Admin]

Andrew

I’m sure it would look great, but I suspect the acetone/ketone base of most nailpolishes WOULD NOT be too good for the longterm life of the body of your beloved Bit Char-G.

Just my 2c worth. Hey – if you DO have some success PLEASE post some pix! Oh – and make sure you don’t get it all over your nails…. people might start talking about you

Cheers

[Admin]

Hey dude,

I just used this chrome spray paint…..it was at my friends place, can’t remember what it was called but it had a chromed lid……..Just used a few very light sprays, very quickly pressed the trigger from about 1 meter or so away so it wouldn’t drip.

And yeah, hopefully I’ll have the D cars soon!!

[Admin]

Again, allow me to provide you a mistake to learn from…

Nail varnish itself may be alright to use, but if you make mistakes, be very careful with the nail polish remover. I tried this on the clear body shell I had, and it softened the plastic to the point where the body literally fell apart in my fingers.

Model spray paints (and brush paints?) should still provide the interesting colors (metal fleck, pearl, and many more) you’re looking for. Just invest some time in masking the windows/headlights first.

[Admin]

Thanks for the feedback, t00ch – and welcome to our little community!

What did you use to chrome the wheels? Just a hobby paint I presume?

The “D” cars

[Admin]

Andrew

I’ve given that some thought (especially the traction !) and had a bit of a look around the hardware stores. Problem is finding big enough sheets at the right price.

The rolling+damage thing is a bit of a worry, but hey – your car has to look a LITTLE bit roughed-up, huh?

I reckon some 800-grade wet/dry would do the trick. Lemme know if you give it a test-run!

[Admin]

Again, not that I have one yet, but thinking about the constant grip and track type discussions, would a light grade sandpaper make for an interesting road base ? Not sure what sort of debris you would pick up and whether you would grip to well eg tumble rolls and scratched paint work . . . . just a thought :-).

[Author]

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