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I have to admit that I haven’t done much with the hubby in the past few years, but the idea of trying to get a LiPo car to “hook up” on the track seems like a challenge.
Even the warmer PN Racing motors were a challenge without good rubber.
My pleasure to bring it back.
I’m hoping the simplicity the conversion of forum code will translate to a more stable site 🙂
It will take a while for people to find us and things to pick up again.
But if I didn’t try if be letting over 10 years of history be forgotten!
I tried playing around with motors from BCG and ZipZaps but they kept causing interference problems with the steering… so I’m just running different gear ratios with the standard motors (all white base).
I ordered the Corvette and that has the fast orange gears, and I have a couple of the Reebok R32 Skyline GTR arriving soon that have the orange base motors. From my research, the orange gears and motor will produce a really fast car 🙂
I haven’t played around with the motors from the buggies though (blue base), has anyone tried the motors from them? I wonder if they’re faster then the orange base.
@whtang 230203 wrote:
http://mini-zracer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31062&highlight=kyosho+hong+kong
nice to see that my post was linked to this thread…
greetings to all from the philippines…
was incidentally in australia early this year… syd and mel…
unfortunately, saw very little mini-z action…any clues??? so next time i go… i might find a track around there somewhere…
this is the place for buying wholesale ***elry. check it
The large track is on council land. Once a month they come and mow it for me 😉 .
Once a month I mow the track again! :smiley15:
The old track in my backyard is gone now, 2 months after i made it and there is no sign of a track ever being there.
If you want to know more about track building, check this out!
http://www.ausrc.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16415
I have used this method for lots of tracks so i thought i should share it!
Cheers, Brett. 😀
Did you say pics!
Hey blurrc,
Here are some of my tracks and another bike drawing.:D .
Cheers, Brett. :beer:
Is there an english version available?
There is probably a wealth of information there but i don’t knowhow to read arabic, is it?
Post links to some RC pictures on the site, everyone likes a picture.
Cheers, Brett. :beer:
Hey all,
My name is Brett, i enjoy RC anything!
I draw RC things on my PC and I’m a kid at heart!
I have two Tamiya cars, an original “Boomerang” and a TL-01 tourer.
I use Technisport DSSS 2.4GHz radio gear, the RX is so small it fits in almost anything. (sugar cube anyone) 😀I have been offered a Firelap Nanoracer 2 complete RTR for $70.
Is that a good price?
I have built some nice backyard tracks and I can show you how! Just ask me!
Here are some pictures of an experimental mini capet racer, an MX bike and a Track design i drew on the computer. Hope you enjoy them!
Cheers, Brett. :smiley9:
Las Vegas, Do you think you can sell one to me?, I’ve been looking everywhere..Thanks
-_-…should of at least have some warnings for the new customers, well anyways does anyone know any other places where I can get the Spider V4?
Even did a spot of car crushing with the tanks hehe
Unfortunately I didn’t take any pics of them in action
somebody did. 😀
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CX1szTz6oxU&feature=relatedmy pleasure. :beer:
@ dangerous dave,
i’ve been thinking about a battlefield for my tanks for age’s,
but never seem to get around building a propper one.the “vision” is something like a modelrailroad layout
(without trains of course) or maybe more like a WW2 diorama,
maybe both.betty hit the nail on the head,
combatdigiQ’s may be the best minitanks ever,
but production stopped years back. :dead:rare and expensive as they were years back,
they are still treasured by a small group of die-hard fan’s.
more a high tech novelty than a rc toy.for some more info take a look @ http://people.zeelandnet.nl/ptrick/
betty hit the nail on the head,
combatdigiQ’s may be the best minitanks ever,
but production stopped years back. :dead:rare and expensive as they were years back,
they are still treasured by a small group of die-hard fan’s.there are some offers for used ones on the marked from time to time,
take care to buy a working one and prepare to replace the internal batteries.
for some more info take a look at my webpage.
(is there a link in my profile ? wait, i’ll check).they look a lot like these :http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fw84QXrcI04&feature=related
@blurrc 230064 wrote:
Wow very nice I am so envious. :angry: So how much did you pay? Also how hard are they to find in shops over there?
By the way welcome to ausmicro 🙂with the exchange rate at the time, it cost me $350.00 ausd.
there’s only 2 official KYOSHO shops. and they’re quite close together.ready sets are hard to find online. but maybe buy a AWD chassis and get a body later?;)
LimmetED is bringing out more lexan bodies soon and might I add they are smoking hot.
Volvo haters avert your eyes now:
Got rice?:
I prefer my bugattis in black personally:
http://www.hobbyco.com.au/product/show_item.php?plu=KY30786R
BAM, MR-015 for 139AUD in Sydney. That’s a done deal.I’ve got to agree with kevsta on this one, i started with the 1st Gen Iwaver 01 and it was horrid, i manage to break the stock plastic with on th Xspeed(WTF), ended up replacing the whole chassis, then after that the board fried.. But that being said the replacement kyosho board still had steering and interference issues. Second clone was the 1st Gen Iwaver 02(white plastic) was a good clone dead stock, electronics i found comparable to the MR-02.
My latest clone was the Iwaver 02M was good when i just got it, but after a year of storage and vigorous driving it also died.If you HAD to buy a clone the 02M would be my choice, simply because if the board fried, you have a servo that will take standard electronics. Otherwise get a real Z hobbyco had MR-01 for 130aud if i remember correctly.
betty.k,
I really should have reviewed all the specs on the V2 better. It already has a built in voltage regulator of 6V. Anway, I think I am going to stick with it AND add one of these: in the rear window http://www.buyextras.com/su30dc5vmale.html
I have a Subaru WRX STI body and have already made the hood scoop functional……just like G-D intended!!!
Maybe in a few weeks I’ll have everything done and give you an update.
Betty.K,
Please tell me more about your 5voltage regulator idea. I don’t think I fully understand the need for it/ the problem it will solve.
Is the regulator to protect the servo from the high voltage of the lithiums? This would not solve me heat problem of the V2 would it?
@whtang 230004 wrote:
charge those batteries boys for some action tomorrow night!
what time does it start?
i might drop by if i have time.Thanks so much for you responses guys!
First off, please tell me why if the voltage is too high when everything runs cool when I am not using a “hot” motor. aka Kyosho X-speed?
Also, please tell me what is up with the Ausi shop right now?
Well I sorry to say the heat problem on the V2.2 is from your Lithium Ion
batteries because of the AMPs that can push to the motor. You will have the same heat problem on the V4 Spider or the Bug. You are not going to get away form the heat problem. The thing I done in the pass is cut out the side windows of the chassis to let more air to cool down things. I reading about the V4.0 or bug they can take up to 12 volts but the other things like steering motor will not.Regards,
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