Admin

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I’ve yet to get a Bit Char-G but intend to once I’ve managed to soften the wife up to the idea !

I have been thinking (not a modeller) that with some of the assorted women’s nail varnishes around, you could get some interesting paint finishes eg metal fleck, pearl etc.

My only other thoughts were, it will probably chip and I’m not sure how plastic friendly they are ?

[Admin]

Im with floyd. I got one ordered up from toyseast for 49.00 with everything he got. By the by floydski how long did it take for them to deliver??

dan.

[Admin]

Wow you guys pay a premuim for stuff down under.

I picked up a controller, booster car, and 3.0 motor for $49.00 USD (including shipping) from ToysEast.

[Admin]

I didn’t know they had slots for barriers… very nice.

I’m gonna buy a few to have, they look too good in your pics and dead sexy on the track.

Thanks for the overview!

-Floyd

[Admin]

There’s a few different ways to do it. My local hobby store sells decal sets for models and R/C cars–just the decals. I look through them, trying to find something close to the right size, cut them out, and then just follow the standard wet-transfer procedure for adding them on. Specifically, I’ve been using NASCAR decals, and cutting out the smaller sponsor logos. I’ve also used just plain old transfer lettering from an art store for “custom” lettering (like the “BXU” I’ve been putting on most of my cars).

The other way to do it is to print your own decals. I just pointed Derek towards some clear decal sheets that can be used with color inkjet or laserjet printers. The decals are wet-transfer, so they need to have a sealer applied to them after printing and before using. The kind I have are from BARE-METAL FOIL & HOBBY CO. The weblinks shoud work. If not, it’s http://www.bare-metal.com. The clear sheets I have are part number 124. Just under $3.00 USD for a letter-sized sheet.

They also make a plain-old clear sticker sheet for use with color inkjets and laserjets, but I haven’t used those. Wet transfers and dry-transfers look so much better when applied.

And for getting the logos for those do-it-yourself sticker sheets, your best resource is the web. Save logos to your hard-drive and use whatever image software you have (even Windows Paint–my personal favorite) to manipulate the images to the right size for the car. HobbyLink Japan (http://www.hlj.com) even carries pictures of some of the decal sheets they sell–a fantastic resource I’m using for my WRX project.

[Admin]

Model paint should work fine. I just destroyed a clear body through various errors, so I can fill you in on a few do’s and don’ts.

If you’ve got access to an airbrush, that will give you the highest quality results. Next best is spray paint–model spray paint should be fine. If you’ve got the skillz and the patience, you can always paint it with model paints and brushes. I believe they even have paints out there just for R/C cars. The lazy-man approach (my personal favorite) is paint markers. Available at hobby and craft stores, they’ll do the trick. The craft paint markers usually have a finer tip than the kind you use for models, but the model paint markersseem to have a higher-quality paint and apply smoother. The important thing to remember is that you need to apply a clear-coat once you’re completely finished detailing the body. Otherwise, all your hard work could scratch or rub off very easily. And, of course, make sure you don’t do any of this work while the body shell is on the chassis.

The only other thing I’d recommend is to mask off the windows (and/or other areas) that you don’t want painted in whatever color you’re using. Appropriately enough, I use masking tape, and use scissors to cut it to the proper size.

I’ve got a couple articles on my site about modifying appearances that may be helpful. The address is below.

I hope that helps.

[Admin]

I LOVE your work! They are some of the best tracks I’ve seen yet! I’m still intrigued by the “Imperial Floor Tiles” (must be an American thing). Are they foam or lino or something else completely? I’ve ruled out “ceramic” seeing they were USD0.44ea and you could cut ’em with a hobby knife

Oh – and I tidied up the HTML for you. Hope you don’t mind.

[Admin]

Hey Darryl

The OEM cars use a “D” set frequency that, by deliberately annoying design, cannot be used with the 4Band multi controller.

Sneaky buggers

Welcome to ausmicro, BTW!

Derek

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Can the Bit Char-g OEM cars be used with the multi-channel controller?

Or are they of different (than Japan spec Bit Char-g) frequencies?

Darryl

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hey its me if anyone needs to contact me. the site should be working fine now.

[Admin]

dang…I goofed on the HTML

;^P

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Yeah, I widened the lanes to about 8-9-10″ on all my track plates.

for the GT plates (the first that I made) I used imperial floor tile – this is the cheapest stuff you can find in the florring area of the hardware store – it’s about $.44 USD. I literally used black as the base and cut the raised grey areas with a utility knife – the surface is GREAT – especially after being scuffed a little with sandpaper. The only problem with these tiles is that they are VERY likely to warp, break, split…but this was an experiment, so everything I learned was useful.

there are some pics of the first track

these are the GP track (the second) the are lighter, made out of a material known as cintra, trovicel, COmpressed foam PVC – it has several names. I haven’t applied any details, yet, but I am very happy with the racing surface.

Thanks for letting me link to your site…I’m trying like mad to get at least the framework for my site complete.

-aquila out

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Orright… please excuse the 2-for-1 replyfor starters

> the hardware store is a virtual paradise for finding weird
> stuff to use for things they’re not made for.

Amen to that. I’d encourage ANYONE who is having thoughts about building a track or hacking their car to visit their local hardware store and see what interesting stuff is kicking about.

> I made a bit char-g track using 12″ x 12″ imperial floor tiles….
> basically assembling them together like LEGO road plates.

I saw the pix on your site. Are they glazed ceramic tiles or something else?

> BTW, Derek…can I add your site to my links page?

You’re most welcome to. Oh and please don’t refer to ausmicro.com as “your site”. Sure Aaron and I fund it and all, but it’s the micro RC community’s site – and I sincerely mean that.

Oh – and before I forget, Aquila…. the linking is conditional that we can link back to your cool projects, too!

> Cool idea. Waaaaaaaayyyy tooo tight a lanes for racing though.

Yessir. I learned that shortly after the first test run. What a pain in the bum.Ya live n learn, I guess, Floydski!

>But I’ve found 9″wide to be a nice size for a race. Plus using the
> faster motors you can make tighter hairpins.

Aye. Good advice!What are you currently using as your race track/surface, dude?

Cheers

[Admin]

Ahhh…… “I see” (said the blind man)

Thanks

[Admin]

VeryNice!

I love to get ahold of your PSD template. I’ve got Photoshop, a nice new printer, and stacks of card stock!

-Floyd

[Admin]

The same, 3.0.

A few places in Japan have it listed as the Lucifer Engine.

[Admin]

Maybe useful, maybe not. I posted this a while back on MM3 Forums.

Bit Char G Cars come in 3 varieties. All have medium tire sets, and medium suspensions.
(And 4 frequencies: 27, 35, 45, 57mhz)

1. The first series has 1.0 motor
which is really good for desktop play.
And the 9.86:1(orange)gearset.

2. The second series has 2.2 motors.(speedy motors good for racing and decent control)
9.86:1 Gearing.

3. This is the newest Special Edition versions: Loctite Zexel, Penzoil GTR, Castrol GTR, Xanavi GTR. All Japanese Rally Racing team designs.These kits have 2.6 motors, the 8.25:1 gear set.

There is also a special model released called the (G-09)AE86 Sprinter Trueno Tune-Up kit. It comes with:
1 Bit Char G Car
1 2.2 Motor
4 Rear Axels & Corresponding Gear Set
[8.25:1] Lt Blue _ Max Speed/Low Torque
[9.86:1] Orange _ Med.Speed/Med.Torque
[12:1] Dark Blue _ Low Spd /Max Torque
[9.86:1] Special Plastic Drift Wheel
2 Extra Black Gear Sprockets. (A must for Bit char G’s)
3 Front Suspension Bars (Soft, Med., Hard)
3 Tires Sets (Soft_Medium_Hard)
5 Hoods (2 White, 2 Red, 1 Black)
3 Bumpers (White, Red, Black)
1 Start/Finish Line
6 Construction Cones/Bars(to connect cones)

Which brings me to this:

(S-02)Bit Racer Tire Set
They are really made for Bit Racers.
Soft has radial treads.
Medium are slicks like the Bit Char G tires.
Hard has vertical lines in them.

I have only been able to get the Soft Set on my Bit Charge G. And to me, it was worth it for the simple fact that it has Radial Tires, which = TRACTION!
Other than that, you have to stretch out the other 2 sets to get them to fit.

The motors(S-#, GS-#):
1.0, 2.0, 2.2, 2.6, 2.8, 3.0
To my knowledge, only the 3.0 and 1.0 comes with both the White Gear/Black Gear that is an absolute must for the Bit Char G to work correctly. DO NOT use the White Pinion Gear, it isn’t calibrated for the Bit Char G gearing.
So if you buy a motor, and it doesn’t come with a black sprocket, remove the one that came stock with your car, and use it.

Bit Racer Gears(S-01)
These ARE NOT the optimum gearing sets for Bit Char G’s. They are real low(ie. made for winding out long distance for speed. Not quick_Power)
The ratios are : 4.57:1(blue), 3.95:1(red), 3.43:1(green)

BitChar G Gear Set(GS-03)
These are what you really want.
9.86:1, 8.25:1, 12:1

BitChar G Susension Set(GS-04)

Hard/Medium/Soft

Comes with a set of medium Grip Tires & The Drift Axel

-Floyd

[Admin]

Cool idea. Waaaaaaaayyyy tooo tight a lanes for racing though.

I used to use 6″wide track lanes for 1.0motors.

But I’ve found 9″wide to be a nice size for a race. Plus using the faster motors you can make tighter hairpins.

-Floyd

[Admin]

I like the track

the hardware store is a virtual paradise for finding weird stuff to use for things they’re not made for.

I made a bit char-g track using 12″ x 12″ imperial floor tiles….basically assembling them together like LEGO road plates.

currently working on a few other projects..

BTW, Derek…can I add your site to my links page?

-aquila out

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Work is obviously not keeping you busy enough!…

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Thanks for the credit to my site, Derek. If you see any factual errors, I’d be happy to correct them. I was trying to write that from the R/C illiterate standpoint (which I represent pretty well).

On a completely unrelated note, a friend of mine is putting together an article on Initial D for The Admiral’s Lair, to bridge the gap between the Bit Char-G set and the anime and manga. I’m familiar with Initial D, but she’s an anime expert.

One thine I would’ve put in my FAQ, if I had known any more about it would be more information about the similarities and differences between Digi-Q and Bit Char-G. That seems to be the question a lot of people ask.

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Have you talked to him yet Derek? I’d adivse you to – he may be leaving Japan soon. We have another order coming in, with another booster car, 3 suspension kits, some body kits and a ratio kit.

His icq number is 64537549

[Admin]

For what it’s worth, also working OK from here.

Oh….hang on…..

Nup….. I was looking at a cached copy. It’s gone for me, too.

[Admin]

Hey Floyd – what do you mean by “Lucifer” 3.0?

Is that just the standard Tomy Micro B 3.0 motor by another name or it it something else completely.

Thanks in advance

[Admin]

I can still get to it fine…

[Author]

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