Admin

[Admin]

W00T! Nice find, Shaetano. Will fire an email off to them tonight.

Thanks

[Admin]

Shard

I got an opportunity to take one for a test-drive on the weekend. Yes – they are WAY COOL. You turn into a straight section of of track and hit the TURBO button – WAHOOOOO! It just pulls away.

As Aaron said, the price sux0rs. The kit is basically a 2-speed car with everything except a controller. To control it, you MUST use the special 4band multi-controller (which has a third channel for the turbo).

The upside, of course, is that the multi-controller can run all of your other cars (27MHz, 35MHz, 45MHz and 57MHz), simply by dialling up the frequency on the controller. Yep – one controller for your entire fleet

Cheers

[Admin]

I wouldn’t have thought the controller would have fitted in too well around the spindle?

Will have a go tonight, Shard, and post some pick-shers tomorrow

Cheers

[Admin]

I have one!

They are very fast in high speed.

The drawback is they are currently hard to get and cost a LOT more than a regular one.

Expect to pay around $70 for the car (available in 4 frequencies), and then about $60 for the controller (which can be switched between multiple frequencies.)

I’ll investigate a group order once I’m back from some much needed Holidays on the 6th of May.

Aaron

[Admin]

Freeman !!. Heres one in the Uk. Looks good too DJ!.

http://www.overlander.co.uk/detail.asp?SubCategoryID=NickelMetalHydride&ID=53

[Admin]

Thanks guys, looks like i’m off to jaycar and DSE today :).

Shard

[Admin]

ROTFL! How true…..

[Admin]

Oh… Iso….. please email me them (derek@ausmicro.com).

Thanks

[Admin]

Isoropia

If you can scan them in at, say, 150dpi RGB colour, I’ve arranged for our ex-pat Aussie friend in Japan to do some translating for us.

I’ll then just drop the translated text into the originals and pop them somewhere on the site as reference material for all to use.

Thanks again for your help.

Cheers

[Admin]

Hey Freeman

Interest noted. As soon as we get something lined up I’ll drop you a line.

How big is the Bit Char-G scene in the UK, just out of curiosity?

Cheers

[Admin]

If you guys can find an international shipper, I’d be most interested.

I’ve checked all the major UK (my current abode) suppliers and they only have NiCd cells in the 1/3 AAA size.

I dont Actually get my Char-G untill next week but I’m planning mods and circuits already

See ya

Freeman

[Admin]

I’ve been using the Duracell Ultra’a for a while, not just for the Bit Char-G, and in particular with photographic gear, and I would have to say they are

fantastic!!!… Of course, as my old TAFE teacher used to love quoting all to often, “You pays for what you gets”…

Suffice to say, they are VERY good…

[Admin]

Oh, they leave track marks… all over my checking account.

[Admin]

Oh…. just looked at the DSE website. They have the charger the same as mine (Cat. M9503) on special at the moment, with $10.00 off. Pretty good buy IMHO.

Cheers

[Admin]

Shard

I’m currently using the standard flavour Duracells. I’ve got about two weeks of pretty heavy use(*) out of them so far and the charge light is still shining brightly.

Hardcore users swear by the Duracell Ultras, but I haven’t had a chance (or need) to try them yet. Might do so next battery change.

If you’re going to go rechargeable, I’d recommend the 1500mAh AA-sizeNiMH batteries from Jaycar Electronics and getting a cheapo 2/4-cell charger from Dick Smith Electronics (Jaycar’s chargers are pretty exxy IMHO)

Most important thing is NOT to use NiCad batteries, as the peak current drain placed upon them by the fast-charger in the controller will kill them quick-smart.

Hope that helps.

Derek (DJ)

(*) It’s the #1gadget at my work at the moment, so it gets FLOGGED from 9am-5pm by anyone who can get his/hers hands on it.

[Admin]

Welcome to ausmicro.com – hope you enjoy your time here.

We’ll add your site to the “Tech’n’Tips” links page ASAP.

Cheers

[Admin]

> http://www.mrnicd-ehyostco.com/newpage3.htm
> AP-150 AAAH (1/3AAA) 1.2v, Capacity – 150mAh – $2.50US
> Brand is AP, Rechargeable NiMH Cells. Pretty sure the
> measurements are the same (0.1 off).

THAT’S the sort of stuff we’re looking for. Hey – Aaron – you got some contacts over there that we might be able to bribe into shipping us some over. Oh…. there’s another thing…. will prolly have to ship via surface mail due to “dangerous goods” restrictions.

Well-spotted, Shaetano!

Cheers

[Admin]

Looks like the N50AAA (produced by Sanyo) is the only one of that size (1/3AAA) to be readily available : /

[Admin]

Shard, the higher capacity the longer its going to go for. If we use NiMH we will need a seperate recharger though ?.

Ok quickly searching, found two places that meet our specs (for a NiMH. One is America (no O/S im afraid, anyone know an American ?:))

http://www.mrnicd-ehyostco.com/newpage3.htm

AP-150 AAAH (1/3AAA) 1.2v, Capacity – 150mAh – $2.50US

Brand is AP, Rechargeable NiMH Cells. Pretty sure the measurements are the same (0.1 off).

Next is from this site (Australia)

http://www.master-instruments.com.au/batteries/index.htm

GP10AAAH, its only 100mAh though. No price, you have to be a dealer, or ask them for the nearest seller.

[Admin]

> There’s a little screw underneat the silicon board under the
> clear plastic bit.

Little footnote here. Shard is pretty handy with a screw driver etc. Be VERY careful if you’re open if you are working UNDER the main PCB as some of the wires are not much thicker than a human hair. I sh*t ye not

> When you hit left or right on the controller, whichever side will
> become magnetic and swing the magnet over making the car turn.

Aye.

> What would be the best go here, to glue the magnet into place?

I see no reason why a hobby glue wouldn’t do the trick. Our Yank counterparts use something called “white glue”, which is assume is just a polyvinyl acetate like our Aquadhere (sp?) as it has to be semi-porus/ceramic friendly.

> I’m assuming there is no upgrades that need the same magnet

None that I’ve seen

> Some of you might want to check under the bonnet to see if your
> turning magnet is centered correctly

It’s only happened to me once (after a 3mtr death-plummet of a car ontopolished floorboards). But after re-centering it hasn’t moved. Go figure

Cheers

[Admin]

ok.. I have nfi what any of that meant :).

does bigger battery mean we’ll be able to race for longer, or quicker.. or both?

Shard

[Admin]

For what it’s worth, I’ve put together a little site on Bit Char-G also. It doesn’t so much focus on the technical side–at least not yet–but it does have a couple articles that I hope are worth reading. In addition, it features some great Bit Char-G links (including one that will take you straight back here), and a Gallery. Unfortunately, the gallery is just my pics right now. Hopefully, someone else out there will cough upa picture of their Bit Char-G soon.

Here’s the link:

http://communities.msn.com/TheAdmiralsLair/

[Admin]

I gave upon the Zexcel stickers on the front bumper. The ones on the rear guards are OK, but the stickers were never designed to bend through 90% IMHO

Luckily, the adhesive seems to harden over time – so all the other optional stickers are still in place – despite the car sufferingnumerous death plummets of the car from the desktops where I race

And yes – Aaron has been tweaking the code for non-IE browsers (thanks for the heads-up BTW). Nice to see the changes have paid dividends.

Cheers

[Admin]

Photoshop, Corel and Picture Publisher…

My favourite being PP…

I can scan @ whatever res you want…

[Admin]

Glad to see you’ve caught the bug, Shard

When you asked the question about the steering adjustment I was going to say “RTFM”…and then the horrible realisation….it’s in bloody Japanese

I know that they’re a piece of cake to assemble, but methinks an “English Instruction Sheet Project” will be on the cards real soon. Can’t hurt anyway….

I have a contact IN Japan (an ex-pat Aussie no less) who can do an accurate translation for me. I have a scanner here to do a high-res image of the original Tomy sheets. Any volunteers for playing in Photoshop, to doctor up an English version of the standard blue and white sheet?

Cheers

[Author]

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