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  • in reply to: Your Bits #16631
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    • Posts: 5952

    Yeah – it’s the History set. I’m not to fussed on the red R34, but the dark grey R32 looks smooth as (go Godzilla) and the 2000GT-R – mmmmmmm 🙂

    If anyone has a spare 2000GT-R they want to offload…. 😉

    in reply to: boosters #16630
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    • Posts: 5952

    thanks for all your help, i’ll be getting a 57mhz booster car, and the 4ch booster controller, when i have the money.

    in reply to: Which Bit Charge G body is the best? #16626
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    • Posts: 5952

    Why would you be flamed? The Celica is a nice looking car IMO also. But the Open Deck – yuck!!

    in reply to: Your Bits #16625
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    • Posts: 5952
    Quote:
    Originally posted by Setanta on 04November2002

    Might as well post the collection seeing as I’m already hosting the pic 🙂

    Nice collection. Is that the Nissan Skyline History set? They look sweet! Might have to get those!

    in reply to: Your Bits #16623
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    • Posts: 5952
    Quote:
    Originally posted by Impreza on 04November2002

    Impreza (blue) 27 mhz, soon to come Lancer (red if I can find it @ 49 mhz)…and abunch of clones at least one per freq. I’ve bought 8 cars total. plus lots of motors, bodies,tyres, gears and hubs (zip-zap) etc. The mazda cosmo and modellista sets look really cool 😛 Chris nice collection, did you mod the black Impreza (wheels, grill)?

    Hi Impreza,

    The Black Subaru Impreza shell is simply on a booster chassis with silver rims. As for the grill, yes thats the new MKIII Knite Rider mod. Instead of it being mounted in your cars roof looking out the window, this version, you drill five small holes in the grill and the leds line up with the holes – result, a real looking KITT Bit! Check it out at Mikes Mods.

    in reply to: boosters #16622
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    • Posts: 5952
    Quote:
    Originally posted by Setanta on 04November2002

    Booster is great for corners where you can corner a 2.6 better at 10000rpm than you can at 26000, then get back on the boost 🙂

    That’s a solid point there about the cornering.

    in reply to: boosters #16621
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    • Posts: 5952
    Quote:
    Originally posted by PandaBear on 04November2002

    Umm… have you *raced* a Booster car, Chris?

    With the button pressed, somehow the Booster 350Z runs faster than a standard car using same 2.2 motor & gearing.

    Nobody knows why…

    Of course I have! I’ve only raced the standard booster machine sets though, I’m awaiting my 350z to arrive – so I can’t comment on that. But I’ve raced a booster with same specs against a standard and both will have the same top speed.

    It would have been nice if the boost button did actually give your car a boost over the motors quoted RPM. I don’t suppose its possible though!? Is it!? Can a 3.0 motor at top speed be pushed further?

    in reply to: boosters #16619
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    • Posts: 5952
    Quote:
    Originally posted by Barrelll on 04November2002

    Ummm just to clarify the 4 Channel Controller takes AA batteries NOT AAA.

    Yeah my bad. I hardly ever use it because it has such a poor range. Definitely AA.

    in reply to: boosters #16618
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    • Posts: 5952

    Booster is great for corners where you can corner a 2.6 better at 10000rpm than you can at 26000, then get back on the boost 🙂

    That’s what I like about it. With the 1.0 and 1.6 there is no great advantage and as Chris pointed out (I think he’s talking straight line), a non-booster will come off the line a bit faster.

    That or I’m driving them wrong 😀

    in reply to: Your Bits #16617
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    • Posts: 5952

    LOL Shypo – I just ordered the Gloria and RX7 body sets too 🙂

    Speed Racer is next, plus maybe a few booster chassis in the different freqs

    Might as well post the collection seeing as I’m already hosting the pic 🙂

    in reply to: Which Bit Charge G body is the best? #16616
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    • Posts: 5952

    I’ll be flamed for this: I happen to like the Celica body for it’s ‘shark-like’ look. If I can get hold of one and figure out how to lower it more, then I’d be in mini-Celica heaven! I also happen to like the Open Deck (shame that I can’t get one any time soon) and the Skyline. Go theSkyline!!

    in reply to: 1.6 motors no good! #16615
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    • Posts: 5952

    GODDAM I WANT A 350Z, people stop torturing me about how awesome they are

    in reply to: Nikko iRacer… #16614
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    • Posts: 5952

    POST PICS, really want to see em

    in reply to: BIT DRAGING #16613
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    • Posts: 5952

    where did you buy the traction compound Lancer_evo

    thanks

    in reply to: Digital Lap Counter, whats it like? #16611
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    • Posts: 5952

    theres transponders the size of a dime. i used 1 on my nitro rs4 2 the smalles are made by brp racing and team orion

    in reply to: NICAD BATTERYS!!! #16605
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    • Posts: 5952

    i just said screw my nimh cells and upgraded to a lithum ion batt. 300mha. bad thing is there $20 a peace.

    in reply to: NICAD BATTERYS!!! #16604
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    • Posts: 5952

    there is a battery world in penrith, otherwise look in the yello pages

    btw, I do not suggest using the NiMH in the char-g, not if you are going to use the controler to charge the car, cos the life of the battery is not going to last (due to the way the controler charges the battery)

    in reply to: Your Bits #16601
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    • Posts: 5952

    i should’ve wrote what i had, pretty stupid of me lol

    i have Trueno Tune up box, Loctite Zexel SE GTR, white GT-R with carbon hood and 3.5 motor, Black BB open deck, silver S2k with extensive body mods, yellow S2k and i have a Gloria body set and Rx7 body set on the way

    also have to scrape togther some cahs and i will get a Fairlady Z and Speed racer set:smiley4:

    in reply to: NICAD BATTERYS!!! #16598
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    • Posts: 5952

    hey DaveF is there a battery world around liverpool?

    or around parramatta?

    or sum where near those 2 places =)

    in reply to: Bit Char-G Buses #16592
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    • Posts: 5952

    Yeah they look cool as i want one

    in reply to: soldering iron? #16591
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    • Posts: 5952

    its a type of soder used on most electrical stuff. just look for rosin core becouse outher stuff might mess up your bit. and if your thinking of makeing a underbody kit for your car dont use the leds i dont know if you can get this but its made by streat glow and its called hot wire they have 12 volt and 3 volt powered by 2 aa’s get the 3 volt kit and put it aywhare you want dosent you can run it off your bits batt. but it sucks alot of juce so do the dual batt. mod. or use 2 5mm super bright led’s there clear but glow green ect radio shack sells them for about $2 for reed green and yellow $4 for blue and $% for white but i’ll take some pics of my car done with hot wire but when you use 2 leds they dont look like a real body kit use 1 in the dead center and this smoke thing america suck ass cuz we dont have it but im thinkin behind the back wheeles can you say srrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrit that would be bad ass . but 4 leds are to much dont get the lil 1’s get the big beefie 5mm super bright i can get the part 3 from radio shack if you need it . you work at toys r us your my hero i wanna work there i work at roush racing make the roush mustang f-150 ect. but what cars do they have in aus. all we have at the skyline gtr lancer evo 5 the rz7 some gay honda thing i dont know what it is the wrx and the cel. but they just came out about a month ago im working on my project bit the one who i dont care if it dies cuz i love my bit for dragin im working on putting a eng. outta a tamya min 4wd car called the plasma dash 47,000 rpm’s and a sh*t load of low end power just a tad big bit if it works im gonna have the fastest bit ever. i had my old mini4wd car clock at 35mph with it. and go to radio shack with the number of you fets. the lil black thing infront of your wires and see if they have 1s that fit with a lower res. i redid mine and saw it was alot faster. but if you wanna race do what i did on your spur gear the big gear you can change see the 2 of them drill them with a drill bit that fits that mark then cut off 4 spokes so you only have 4 on each wheel thats less rotateing mass more rpms and a snappyer acl. not a whole lot but enought make your chassy into a pan. and get a bottle of traction compound from a hobby shop its about $7 for a big bottle that will last you forever and kiss over stear good bye. im starting a online site pertty soon for bit racing and bit drag racing. then were gonna see what country can beat who by posting times and stuff. but all the tracks and classes gotta be the same. im gonna see if i can get in touch with a few hobby shops in the uk japan aus. ect ta set it up. get some tamya ceramic grease for your gears ect. its the best grease out there for r.c.

    in reply to: soldering iron? #16590
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    • Posts: 5952

    i understood what you were saying till “rosin” lol

    in reply to: Driving Straight #16588
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    • Posts: 5952

    i dont have this prob so ha ha but how i fixed mine was takeing out the crystal and putting in im my futaba 3pj then i just hit my menue on my remote and used the str. trim and fiwne tuned it. works kick ass only thing i had ta do was take the charger dock outta my con. and put it on my duratrax intellipeek pulse charger at the lowest setting but hey im useing 2 batts anyways. but you can pick up a remote for like $50.00 and with a few mods you can get it ta work just make shure it uses the same mhz. mine is a pcm so i can use it on any car as long as i have the crystal. remember fm wont work on these so get a am or a pcm

    in reply to: Your Bits #16587
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    Purchased Initial D set originally which comes with the AE86 and RX7 shells. Since purchased the Castrol Supra shell as well as the gear set, tyre set and suspension set with drift axle.

    in reply to: boosters #16583
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    • Posts: 5952

    Ummm just to clarify the 4 Channel Controller takes AA batteries NOT AAA.

Viewing 25 posts - 1,951 through 1,975 (of 4,827 total)