betty.k

[betty.k]

i was waiting for the ‘f’ word to surface from uA!!:D

the tx chip has a logo that says ‘actions’ or ‘ctions’. there’s two sets of numbers; ‘tx2c’ then ‘bb024-18’. the rx has the same logo, with the numbers; ‘rx2c’ and ‘bc017-18’. the rx chip has 16 pins and the tx has 14.
thanks for the info, and whadda ya mean i’m keen to blow things up?! aren’t we all! i’d really rather not toast pcb’s, but there’s a helluva steep learning curve when you do!:p:8ball:

[betty.k]

i bought a tomy 2.6 motor recently, and popped it into my shen. i noticed it went almost twice as fast. i’m guessing then, that my shen had a 1.0 or 1.6. being a clone i,m sure they used whatever motors were most abundant at the time of production. judging by other shen owner’s comments i’ve read, you could have varying motor sizes and tyres and pcb’s and so on. a friend of mine and i bought our shens together, and his pcb looks different to mine:8ball:

[betty.k]

ha ha 😀 you’re not wrong there! 2 x 27mhz tx, 3 x 40mhz tx, 2 x mostly fried pcb’s, 1 mostly working, 1 still in box, 8 x motors, and heaps of gears and wheels and switches and wires!! still worth every cent though, cheap education. tx anyone!?:8ball:

[betty.k]

this is quickly turning into the ‘old timers remember days of yore’ thread!!:D nothin’ like blowing up a lego car with an insect (or worse!) passenger with your bag of explosives bought at the local milk bar! here’s to the old days!!:8ball:

[betty.k]

didn t buy them anywhere, just cannibalising old mobile phones. mobile antennae work really well on some rc gadgets by the way!:8ball:

[betty.k]

i,ve got a couple of spare blown pcb’s i’ll experiment with. in the mean time i just bought another one (they’re only $15!), whacked it in, and no prob’s!:D
i’ve worked out what to do now, make sure there’s a capacitor across the motor terminals and wire from one terminal to the motor shell, no more than 6V, and DON’T use the tamiya motors that come with the gearbox! every time i fried a pcb it was with those motors attached!:angry::8ball:

Edited by – betty.k on 14 November 2003 22:28:27

[betty.k]

no need for a pic, i understand perfectly. i’ll save that one for a rainy day. hmm, are those clouds i see?!:8ball:

[betty.k]

ok, but what if i want to run them off a 3.6V nimh. i tried running headlights (green) and tail lights (red) on my dragon rc tank from button cells, but the headlights were a lot dimmer than the rear. so i ran them off the tank batt and the headlights went orange and they all got hot enough to melt plastic. what s going on here?:8ball:

[betty.k]

i’d be interested in knowing how to drive a motor instead of steering, if it’s not too difficult:8ball:

[betty.k]

yeah, it’s tempting. what else can i put on this thing?! any ideas welcome:8ball:

[betty.k]

bugger! i got excited for a minute there!:evil::8ball:

[betty.k]

cool thanks. let’s see if this works:8ball:

Just clearing up the edit, edit, edit at the end here,. uA

Edited by – betty.k on 13 November 2003 19:56:26

[betty.k]

aah, well done trash! very simple to understand and informative. but let me get this right. let’s say i attach a motor instead of a steering coil to the pcb. when i push left on the tx the motor spins one way, and when i push right the motor spins the other way. is this correct? if so, what voltage goes through the steering coils, the same as the motor? (VERY inspirational lecture!!:D):8ball:

[betty.k]

well i aint exactly a kiddie (31), so i can’t even remember if i learned that or not. but i did now, thanks trash:8ball:

[betty.k]

great idea trash, i’ll certainly be using something like that if it gets up. when i was searching the net for info on radio controlled electronics, it was either too technical or not there. when it comes to electronics, you can figure out a lot of things on your own (my ‘education’ was f@rting around with audio gear, quite often during gigs! you tend to learn fast when the pressure’s on!), but there comes a time when you need to learn some of the rules, do’s and don’ts, and they’re hard to find if you’re not really sure what to ask for. so a page of links of easy to understand info would be great. be even better if you ‘learned’ guys could write a few tutorials, but i understand you can’t exactly pull something like that out of your aah, back pockets!:approve::8ball:

[betty.k]

i think super max is just gaggin’ with us. and if you don’t believe me try turning your motor over!! (nice one super max! hook, line and sinker!):D:8ball:

[betty.k]

actuallly, ‘tank’ does 1m in about 3-4 seconds. i’ve thought about a camera but the range isn’t good enough to have any real fun (or justify the expense). doesn’t really need a cover, unless i want to drive it in the rain, and the ‘gummi packet’ cover protects the pcb when it flips over. there’s a clear plastic cover on the gearbox which stops dirt fouling up the gears (probably can’t see it in bad quality pic).
not really dj’ing any more, just putting together some tunes at home on the computer. allthough that’s taken a bit of a back seat lately, bitten hard by the rc bug!!:D:8ball:

Edited by – betty.k on 11 November 2003 00:54:42

[betty.k]

i,ve noticed a similar thing too. when ive just run the motor from the pcb and listened to it in forward and reverse, it sounded like it was reving the same both ways, so i’m not sure if it’s true but it certainly looks that way to me too:8ball:

[betty.k]

merc blue; actually it cost about $55-60 ( not including batteries or the 2 other enertec blaster cars whose pcb’s i fried!)and i also used the plastic inside packaging from a gummi pizza for a pcb cover! i think it’s well worth doing considering what a ‘proper’ tank of this size would cost. speed wasn’t an issue when i first set out but it putts along at about 2-3 seconds per meter. not real fast but low geared, lotsa torque and boy does it clear obstacles! the gearbox can be reconfigured to an even lower gear ratio and you get 2 sizes of drive wheels. the way i have it set up is the fastest the whole setup will allow without increasing voltage (and we won’t be doing that again, will we!). your biggest consideration is probably the choice of rx/tx. it would be great to get one of those fancy ones that comes in it’s own breifcase but i’m too scared to even look at the price! that’s why cheap rc toys are so appealing. just be prepared to collect a few spare tx units!:Dgood luck!

micro amps; used to work as a dj and wanted a name that stood out (i’m a bloke!) just kept using it when creating a web presence.:smiley2:

trash; aah, so that’s what those little buggers do! likening electricity to water is exactly what i do, so you’re making sense to me. i’ve put together the odd kit, but all you need to know is how to solder and read instructions. i’ll look into a bit of electronics for idiots, see if i can’t learn me sumfink!:approve:

thanks for the support and if anyone tries this project post your results, i’m sure there are plenty of other ways to aproach this one:8ball:

[betty.k]

WOO HOO!!! PROBLEM SOLVED!!!:Di’m such a fool. when i originally pulled the rx and motors out of the toy there was a capacitor across the motor terminals and also a bit of wire connecting one terminal to the motor shell. i left it like this for the initial setup with the sticky tape battery case. when i put it together the second time i removed the terminal/motor shell link thinking “ah that’s probably not important”!! oh how wrong i was! so now, i is one happy diy rc tank with a 20-25m range drivin’ mofo! i’ve learned some valuable rc/electronics lessons now, as you said uA, the joys of r&d! even though it was stupidity that got me into this mess, and pure dumb luck that got me out of it, i can’t thank you (ph2t, micro amps and trash) enough for your assistance on this matter:smiley2::8ball:

ps here’s a pic of the finished product

Edited by – betty.k on 10 December 2003 03:12:31

[betty.k]

uh oh! i think i’m in way over my head now! i wouldn’t even have a clue what a volt rail is, something that comes with a train set perhaps!?:D i can see a whole bunch of transistors but i don’t know what they’re doing or which ones i need to fool around with. know of any good tutorials on the subject, or links?:8ball:

[betty.k]

not quite sure what you mean by that last post. how do i find out what you mean? i’ve got a multimeter but i don’t understand exactly how and which way current travels around a pcb. i know it starts at + and ends at – but that’s about it. i get the impression that the ic sends the current down both wires depending whether i push forward or reverse, and transistors direct it the correct way out:8ball:

[betty.k]

so do i remove one wire from each motor and replace it with a 6v wire directly from the batt’s? if so, which wire do i remove? the one that is positive when i push forward? (by golly i’m learning a lot!:D):8ball:

[betty.k]

hang on a minute! here’s something strange. when it’s running off the battery pack it plays up, but when i run it off a transformer the problem vanishes! so i suspect it needs more current and not voltage, as trash suggested. so how do i get more current? i’m using 4 x AA alkaline batt’s at the moment, what’s the mah rating of this? should i look at getting one of those 6v nicad packs for rc cars? i swear i’m nearly finished with this!:D:8ball:

[betty.k]

sounds great but i don’t have a clue where to start when it comes to modding the pcb! i’ve since confirmed this to be true, put fresh batt’s in and halved the range. i guess i’ll have to get 3v motors or a 6v rx. in the mean time i’ll have to hone my driving skills following closely.:8ball:

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