i had the same prob again! i found the motor connection had just slipped out (rearward). push it back in so the end with the solder is back in it’s slot. but not under the pcb:8ball:
i had the same prob with a 2.6 tomy. i found the gears were meshing too tightly, so you need to sit the motor either higher or lower than normal. doing this moves the pinion slightly further away from the transfer gear. i just cut away a little of the plastic that the motor sits on, so it’s a bit lower. make sure you use the shen pinion:8ball:
just thought of something else i wanted to know. just say i wanted to run a rc vehicle with 2 pcb’s on different frequencies (simple way to ad extra channels). can the rx’s and tx’s run on the same aerials? or would they need to run on separate ones.:8ball:
my aren’t we a bunch of boffins! good work guys. i wasn’t really asking specifically about bit aerials, but i got what i wanted anyway. whenever i’ve wanted an aerial in the past i’ve just stretched out a spring, for most of the reasons ph2t uses guitar strings. btw you can use bass guitar strings, you just have to use some pliers to grab the end of the outer coil and unwind it by pulling it off. the inner wire is a bit thick, but the squiggly outer wire is perfect:8ball:
interesting. i knew nothing about inductors, not even that they exsisted! are they those copper coils i see on hi fi and radio pcb’s? are those ferrite tuning pots on rc pcb’s inductors?:8ball:
definately blu tack, syringes (mini grease gun/ oil can), scalpel or hobby knife, fine point tweezers, mini file, toothbrush for cleaning gears, araldite and mini quick clamp, enamelled copper wire, and an ashtray!:8ball:
sounds cool! do you have propo control? my tank is twitchy at low speeds, so i thought high speed would be hard to control especially with a non propo tx/rx. make sure you don’t make the same mistakes i did. read all the tank threads carefully and make some new mistakes! let us know how you get on:8ball:
ahh, if you write upside down gravity pulls the ink away from the ball, and alllowing air in. in space there’s no pull any way, and capillary action probably takes place to hold the ink to the ball……i think:8ball:
actually ordinary ballpoint pens do work in space! (new scientist, 1 nov 2003) a spanish astronaut on a recent shuttle flight who usually used the fancy pressurised nasa pen, noticed a russian crew member attach a regular ballpoint to a piece of string before liftoff. turns out they allways used ballpoints, everyone just assumed they used pencils!:p:8ball:
November 16, 2003 at 4:07 am
in reply to: Diodes#22903
i think what trash is saying is you run power down the anode (or cathode, not 100% on that) in a led and it produces light. if you shine light on it, it produces power back down the anode.
power + led = light
light + led = power:8ball:
November 16, 2003 at 3:23 am
in reply to: Diodes#22975
you don’t have to drill the pcb cover, just remove it completely. maybe a little tape to hold it down. you could rewire it with enameled copper wire (maybe a bit thicker than the steering wires,for the batt and motor). you could also remove the metal connectors for the batt and motor and hardwire them in. even the heatsink could be reduced, or even removed and put tape in it’s place, although i probably wouldn’t remove it completely. and when you are drilling, be patient. don’t force the drill through. good luck, let us know how you get on:8ball:
nice touch with the matchstick. it’s the same principal behind picking up a blob of cigarette ash, by licking a finger and gently touching it to the ash!
what does smd stand for? i know the technical term is ‘itty bitty teeny weeny electronic thingies’!
and while we’re at it, what’s the ‘t’ mean? and all the other letters? and, (i’m on a roll here!) what does ‘lol’ mean? and what’s so special about a ‘grandcell’ charger? and… ahh bugger it, that’s enough. i’m starting to annoy myself!:8ball:
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