betty.k

[betty.k]

oh snap!! count me in!!

as for the name, in the illeagal bike race scene we call melbourne “burn city” as in melburn.

so how’s “burn city mini z” sound?

track layout? i don’t care, just so long as we get a meaty straight to show off our modified rigs!:D :8ball:

[betty.k]

are you talking about the mini z pan chassis conversion? if so, they look cool but mini z chassis’ are good enough already.

and welcome to the boards!:beer: :8ball:

[betty.k]

sure thing nano, and feel free to show us some pics of your rides! :8ball:

[betty.k]

that thing’s gonna be a handful on a track! nice work :8ball:

[betty.k]

this is what i was talking about. it’s 2mm thick.

if i was going to cut cf i’d use the cutting wheel on a dremmel :8ball:

[betty.k]

you can buy an upgrade carbon fibre chassis, it’s made from thick cf sheet and is pretty tough. i should know, i got one!;) :8ball:

[betty.k]

that’s a hot looking setup! :8ball:

[betty.k]

that’s a hot looking setup! :8ball:

[betty.k]

so, are we on for this friday? i’m good for it if you are! :8ball:

[betty.k]

so, are we on for this friday? i’m good for it if you are! :8ball:

[betty.k]

as renton said, bearings are the number 1 upgrade on any rc car.

then you should invest in nimh rechargeable batteries and a decent charger.

after that you might want to try a kyosho x speed motor. if that’s not enough you’ll have to look into electronics modification, upgraded fets or a turbo. then you can go with the “insanity” class motors.

for grip, the golden rule is “rear end grip is more important than front end grip”.
when i used to run on concrete surfaces i used wide foams on the rear and narrow rubber up front.

now i’m running on a foam tile “rcp” style track and i’m running 10 deg wide rubber on the rear and 10 deg narrow rubber up front. if i could be bothered finding them i’d prefer 8 deg wide on the rear.

after all that you might want to look into a kyosho rear oil shock and if you’re racing on a track some cambered front knuckles.

anything after that you buy will be purely bling. not that there’s anything wrong with that! :8ball:

[betty.k]

as renton said, bearings are the number 1 upgrade on any rc car.

then you should invest in nimh rechargeable batteries and a decent charger.

after that you might want to try a kyosho x speed motor. if that’s not enough you’ll have to look into electronics modification, upgraded fets or a turbo. then you can go with the “insanity” class motors.

for grip, the golden rule is “rear end grip is more important than front end grip”.
when i used to run on concrete surfaces i used wide foams on the rear and narrow rubber up front.

now i’m running on a foam tile “rcp” style track and i’m running 10 deg wide rubber on the rear and 10 deg narrow rubber up front. if i could be bothered finding them i’d prefer 8 deg wide on the rear.

after all that you might want to look into a kyosho rear oil shock and if you’re racing on a track some cambered front knuckles.

anything after that you buy will be purely bling. not that there’s anything wrong with that! :8ball:

[betty.k]

hunt for xtrek or zzse 😉 :8ball:

[betty.k]

ok, let’s lock it in. 21st aug, rc smackdown!!!!:evil: :8ball:

[betty.k]

i´m a pimp and proud of it :8ball:

[betty.k]

i?ll have to give it a miss this week, i?ll be in the hills. but how about next week? :8ball:

[betty.k]

looks great! i think the silver looks pretty good for the colour :8ball:

[betty.k]

@Felix2010 230434 wrote:

When you stack Fets, the resistance gets cut in half, and the current-handling capabilities essentially double. I say essentially because Fets were never meant to be “stacked” on top of each other in the first place – The bottom Fet does not have the air contact to effectively cool itself and thus lends itself to failure under hard abuse i.e. Lithium.

A simple answer is yes, a 2×3 stack of stock Fets would help. BUT! If you want to get your moneys’ worth, IMO, I’d have a 2×2 or 2×3 stack of upgraded EVO Fets installed. They have much better specs than the stock units. If you can have the two extra sets of stock-EVO Fets stacked on your car for cheap, you could try it. But I am not sure of the stock EVO Fet’s specs – A 2×3 stack of Stock-EVO Fets might only be as good as a single-layer of upgraded-EVO Fets.

Hope this helps:smiley14:

yeah, what he said!

also, when you stack fets the gate voltage needs to increase. in your case with lipo cells you should be ok but under normal curcumstances stacking fets causes a delay between you hitting throttle and the car responding.

in the same way that a double stack doubles the current capability each fet halves the gate voltage. :8ball:

[betty.k]

you see the fancy goggles the pilot was wearing? they have accelerometors in them like the wii controller. they’re linked to a camera mount in the plane so that if you look left the camera turns left and so on.

the gps stuff is new to me! :8ball:

[betty.k]

sooooo much potential…..:smiley15: :8ball:

[betty.k]

i couldn’t tell you anything other than it’s a 4 band infra red setup.

the controller has a switch for all 4 bands but the cars are either a/b or c/d.

the buggies are single band recievers only. :8ball:

[betty.k]

i agree!! i think i should give “phatooty” a kick in the ribs about a limited production run. :smiley15: :8ball:

[betty.k]

i nicknamed it “the pitbull”! :8ball:

[betty.k]

dunno, never tried it! with the current setup i get about 38kph on the checker. :8ball:

[betty.k]

@jimmy 230381 wrote:

what pinion you running ???
i run an 8 tooth with my modded mr01 running an atomic chilli and a spider v4

i’m also running an 8 tooth. i have the power to run a much bigger pinion but the track i run at is too small for insane speed. if i was running at a 1:10 track i’d go for anything up to 14 tooth! :8ball:

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