Chewy
Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorPosts
-
Quote:
Originally posted by p1n0yb0yracer on 27August2002
wut about a DeLorian..muahahahahaha…. Someone wanted a R33 skyline..A skyline set is going to be released soon that inclued the R34 and R33 AND the 1g skyline (i think)
Hmmm, a DeLorian. Funny you should say that, because i was looking at my Sprinter Trueno body shell the other day, thinking to myself “I could make a DeLorian out of this…”. I’m a big fan of Sprinter Truenos though, so i’m not cutting that one up!
That’s absolutely mental! I see you’ve got your reciever board mounted the same way as the one in my 2.4v Bit (upside down and rotated 90 degrees). On my Bit (Toyota Sprinter Trueno) i’ve got the pot sticking out of the rear window hole. It was the only way to make space for my huge 2.4v Nimh battery…
Hmmm, lets see…
Aston Martin Vanquish, Some TVR’s, Some Renault’s (more specifically, a phase 1 2.0 16v Renault Megane Coupe like i drive IRL)…
Do you have binoculars to see what your Char-G is doing when it’s 50 feet away? :smiley1:
I got a PCB mounting 3xAA battery box from Maplins (order code CL18U, 39p each!). Instead of a PP3 battery clip connection on top, it has 2 metal pins sticking out of the back that are meant to solder onto a PCB. However, they are exactly the same distance apart that the charging points are on the bottom of a Bit. I just bent the end of the pins up, and sit the Bit on top of them to charge it up.
I have only one Bit Char-G, my Red Mitsubishi Evo (35 mhz). It’s all standard (1.0 motor, orange gearing, and medium tyres all round) except for the battery. With my 2.4v mod i can out pace my brother’s Skyline with a 2.6 motor.
The only way to learn to solder well is with practise. Keep the end of your iron clean, and don’t use too much solder. Oh, and be carefull when soldering batteries… 😉
That’s where it was on my Red Evo too.
I did it just yesterday, but i took a slightly different route to most people. Basically, i modified a battery to fit. You can have a look here if you want…
http://www.ausmicro.com/forum/display_topic_threads.asp?ForumID=4&TopicID=659&PagePosition=1
Are you absolutely sure that they are genuine Tomy cars? Some of the OEM’s have the frequencies labelled by stickers, and have copied Tomy’s packaging almost exactly. As far as i know, Tomy print the frequency on the controller under the forward/backward button, and on the car on the clear electronics cover. It’s also normal for OEM cars to have a picture of one car on the box, and something completely different inside…
Well, both mine and my mate’s char-g’s turned up this morning (monday), a day earlier than expected! Before i ordered from the guy on eBay, i checked Firebox and The Gadget Shop, and both only had Bit Char-G copies (is that what you guys are calling OEM’s?). The Gadget Shop also had Nikko I-Racers (Digi-Q’s?). Anyway, i wanted to race my mate, and as i understand it there’s only one frequency available officially in the UK so far.
We were both impressed with the Bits, although the 1.0 motors are a bit slow. The range was VERY short on my red Evo at first, but i found a cripple capacitor on the solder mask (green) side of the circuit board. Range is better now, but still not quite as good as my mate’s Scooby (which had no cripple cap).
Red Mitsi Evo 35Mhz – Capacitor BEHIND circuit board.
White Subaru Impreza 57Mhz – NO Capacitor.
Both bought at same time. Removed Mitsi capacitor and range vastly improved…
-
AuthorPosts
