DaveF
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I have one, but I swapped the shell for a silver Supra. I wanted a body with a rear spoiler – I think it looks cooler.
The Truno kit looks good though. I didn’t realise until recently that it came with all the extras (tires, gears, etc). Makes it a good purchase. I don’t really like the bodies it comes with though.
I didn’t know the timer had a set of lights in it. If anyone has one I’d love to see a photo of the insides, or a schematic if someone has that. The starter countdown is a pretty simple circuit in the big scheme of things, I just don’t have the skills I did used to with electronics to build one from scratch.
No freeloaders to the track on Xmas day, but the best mate (who I gave a Gloria to), spent a few hours here over the Xmas break.
Where abouts in Sandy Bay is that RC track/club?? There’s a club and track down at Kingston too, near the sports centre. I must take the kids out to these places one day. When does the Sandy Bay group meet/race?
True. You wouldn’t get a 2.2 around my track without problems.1.0s are ok, and 1.6 would need a lot of skill to get aroundsome parts.
Again. this is where running your car around in a circle to see the turning circle is useful. Also, do a tight figure eight and see how much room your car needed to turn. This will help you have some ideas on how wide to make the track, how tight to make the corners, etc.
The lanes on my track are about 17cm wide. It’s good, but maybe a litle tight and technical – the kids are still bouncing off the walls a little. Perhaps 20cm wide might be better. Get yor bit to drive in little circles and mark out the circle it drives in. Use that as a template to make your corners. No good making a track it can’t get around.
There’s something on QFM like this. Something about the motor not sitting flush with the gears or something. of course, there’s always the fact that the motor could be a dud too.
I remember reading someone got an Aussie Char-G, took out the 2.2, put in their 1.0, and returned it, saying someone got them the wrong colour, and swapped it for another, thus they ended up with two 2.2 cars at home.
You might have got their old 1.0?? I’m kind of joking, I’m sure you got the yellow 2.2 motor, not the blue 1.0.
I started work on a starters lights tree, but as there are no kits for it, I started reading through old electronics magazines till I found a few things to blend and alter to do the job. I was going to have it beep on GO also. Unfortunately I was close, but no banana. It runs through the lights, but way way too fast. I can’t slow it down enough, even with help from friends who did Electronics at uni. Some fundimental flaw. Back to the drawing board for me.
That’s me driving, and me shooting the film at the same time. Mostly the camera is on a tripod, but there’s a few shots there where I’m panning and driving, thus, the cars isn’t turning.
I’ve got plans to do another, probably in the next few weeks, once the kids have their driving skills up to speed, and the competition is a bit tighter. I’ll try and get some good F1 style camerawork happening then too.
Sons – Red RX7, Black Celica
Wife – Auto Modelista set
Me – Fairlady set with a Supra shell.
Some extra motors – 1.0, 2.2, 3.0
Extra tyres, and I’m soon to get some 130mah batteries for us all.See link below for photos of the cars in action, and the pit/garage case.
Thanks Aaron. I just noticed you had added it. Thanks for the link (and the comments). shucks.
Maki. Thanks for the low down on the scaled down stick downs.
And, loved your car too by the way. very shmick.
So, what’s the trick to applyinf decals to the little Char-Gs woth such a good end result?
So what’s the difference? Lighter? or something else???
AUD…
The Comact Char-Gs (The Aussie model) is anything from $40 – $55.
Local sheisters will charge $65 – $90 for Japan import Bit Char-Gs.
You can get a Bit Char-G in from Japan or China for around $50 including postage and handling if you find the right person and buy 4 at a time or more.
Battery World.
Shops all round Australia.
About $5 AUD each.The idea shown at http://www.infoserve.net/oss/slotcar/rctimer.htmwould be the only ‘no fuss for the driver’ way to do it with Char-Gs. There are similar kits out there, and you can build something like this yorself with the right knowledge.
There’s also other freesoftware to do the counting, timing, starters lights, record keeping and average speed calculations, but you need a PC near your tracks to plug into the timing lights.
A freind got one and his always drove off to the left. He found the spring inside was a little bent. he straigtened it with some long nose pliersand it runs dead straight now.
Mind you, this doesn’t sound like your symptoms, so it’s probably not the same problem.
Man, it better be up and running tomorrow. All this suspence…
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