HACHI-RYOKU
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I also give them my vote. Very good cells. You can use the energizer 15 minute recharger on them, but I would actually use a slow charger for better results.
Plastic vs. Alloy wheels would be a good thing to weight.
Plastic vs. Alloy wheels would be a good thing to weight.
MR-02 or MR-010?
The MR-010 with a low~medium gear ratio drifts very nicely out of the box. The MR-02 needs more power to drift comfortably (IMO). After that, soft springs in front, hard spring in back, and a tire set up that lets you slide on the type surface you’ll be using. Hard rubber for tacky concrete or foam and foam tires on smooth surfaces. Adjusting the ball differential, if you have one, will get you closer as well. I can’t tell you how to set it as each car and ball diff are a little different depending on make, balance, motor, etc… I can drift my MR-02 ok with the diff a little tight. Nothing compared to my MR-010 though.
My advice is to just get an MR-010 AWD.
Oh, I agree with you. A balanced arm is better than an unbalance arm, but when you’re using 4 gobs of epoxy to ballance an arm with only three rotors then I raise an eye brow. How unbalanced was the arm to begin with? That epoxy has weight. Not much, but it’s enough to rebalance the arm so I’d have to say it’s enough. I don’t think the arm would spin noticeably slower, but I do think it would pull more amps, especially on acceleration, which in turn lowers efficiency. Lower the efficiency of a motor and more of the wattage goes to heat. It’s not really anything to be concerned with unless you’re talking lipos and fets/turbos.
I also agree with the sanding method vs. the melting method but the armature coil terminals on the motors in question are the more fragile type. I’ve broken one before unclamping it from the wire. I’d rather not muck around with them if I can help it.
All in all, PN motors aren’t bad for what you’re paying, but I’ve been having problem after problem with a few of their other motors too. I may stop buying them all together. I still have a hand full that I haven’t fully tested so my opinion might change.
I finally got around to checking this motor with a meter. The com was okay, but the enameled wire wasn’t. They never took the enamel off one of the positions. It wasn’t passing any juice on one wrap! So I wipped out the solder and not only soldered all the terminals but also made sure to get the enamel melted at that spot. Runs much better now. I just need to see how it performs in the car.
I also picked up a machine wound 38T epoxy balanced armature from PN Racing and threw it in an Atomic can with neos and CB’s. It’s doing the same thing. I guess I’ll work on that one tonight. I’m starting to loose faith in PN motors. I like there chassis parts but I’ve been having too many problems with their motors. Something’s telling me epoxy balancing is also not the way to go. The 38T has four gobs of epoxy on it. That’s gotta be slowing the motor down.
At least I’m learning about motors though.
I finally got around to checking this motor with a meter. The com was okay, but the enamelled wire wasn’t. They never took the enamel off one of the positions. It wasn’t passing any juice on one wrap!. So I wipped out the solder and not only soldered all the terminals but also made sure to get the enamel melted at that spot. Runs much better now. I just need to see how it performs in the car.
I also picked up a machine wound 35T epoxy balanced armature from PN Racing and threw it in an Atomic can with neos and CB’s. It’s doing the same thing. I guess I’ll work on that one tonight. I’m starting to loose faith in PN motors. I like there chassis parts but I’ve been having too many problems with their motors.
At least I’m learning about motors though.
That sounds like solid advice. I’ll definately have to give this a go.
Incidently, I tried something different and it seemed to help some. I shot the motor full of this really good oil that I picked up in Japan. Couldn’t tell you what’s in it as my Kana (writen Japanese) has gone to crap. I remember that it had silicon and a few other synthetic things in it. Real qulaity stuff. Anyways, after the comm drops, I gave this oil a try. I had nothing to loose and it worked great on the stuck door lock down stairs. Well, I sprayed it on the comm first and the motor picked up. I sprayed some more and accidently oversprayed some further into the motor and it picked up some more. So, I got to thinking and I sprayed tons of oil all through the motor while it was moving. It seemed to make it run loads smoother and it stopped getting hot. Now I had a dripping mess of a motor in my hand, so I hung it over the side of the table while it was finishing breaking in and let it drip into a plate on the floor. Kept running real smooth but after 4 or more hours of this the heat started comming back and it started stuttering again. Not as bad as before though.
In retrospec, this seems like a good way to break in any motor and the oil seemed to give the motor more pep than comm drops. Maybe there are better alternatives to the comm drops. Anybody else ever try alternatives to comm drops?
I’ve got two Atomic diffs in mine. They’ve been working fine. I have them pretty tight though. Otherwise my car pulls to one side pretty bad. I have run them loose at times and they seem to do ok that way, minus the urge to jump to one side on acceleration.
I’m not overly impressed with them though and I also can’t wait for Kyosho to come out with some good ones. I’ve been thinking about running with the stock diffs.
I’m starting to wonder if they will ever come out with them.
Ogier wrote:Could the smoke have been coming from the disintegrating chassis rather than the motor? 🙂That’s what I’ve been thinking. The motor still seems ok. I’ve killed three set of brushes on it, but I take it apart, clean it up and put it back together again each time. So far it runs good when I get it back together. I’m gonna put it in a MR-02 and see how it compares to a new Anima MM that I picked up.
I am now replacing my chassis too. Not because I banged the hell out of it though. I’m replacing mine because it warped from heat. I’ve got the Anima/lithium/Nelly Deluxe combo and the motor gets scorching hot. Sometimes it smokes. Now it sits like one of those tables that wobbles.
Interestingly enough, I decided to go with a cooler motor. My parts were still on order and I got impatient so I made a Frankenstein out of loose stuff. I used an off-brand ball bearing case, gold neo mags, PN racing carbon brushes and an Xmod gen 1 stage 2 armature with the second lowest gear ratio. The thing absolutely flies and stays cool too. I need to swap out the ball bearing case as the one I’m using doesn’t fit correctly. It’s just not quite the right size. It’s one of the ones from one:28thrc. Not sure of the brand. The case is good in an Xmod, but it’s not fitting correctly in my MR-010.
I’ll get more info on this motor after I swap bb cans and swap the chassis. I’ll also get info on a PN S02 armature in a bb can with like stuff.
Good info. I’m getting ready to be stationed over there in October again. I’ll have to look him up. Edit- I just checked. He’s in the USAF at Misawa. I’ll be in Okinawa. Two different Islands really. Oh-well.
Just curious, what are the other specks on that motor? Big or little comm head?
A little update from my previous post.
Nelly; 3
Poor motor; 0So far I’ve toasted 2 sets of carbon brushes and 1 set of silver brushes in my MR-010. In fact I think I’m going to hand wind a 40 turn motor with a small comm head to help deal with the heat. I think this 33 turn anima P motor is just getting tortured even at the second lowest gear ratio. Last night it took about five minutes to beat down another set of carbon brushes.
The Nelly EVO and the Nelly Deluxe have kept going like the energizer bunny.
How would floor tiles stand up to the weather outside? I was thinking of making a outdoor track with smooth floor tiles and waxing it heavily for extra grip. I run my cars regularily at the clinic I work at after hours. The waxed tile floor kicks arse…..as long as it’s been waxed recently of-course. Otherwise, drifting AWD is about the only thing you can do.
Yeah, I gotta give you guys kudos on the driving with the MR-02s. Looking real nice. Now the MR-010, who the hell was at the wheel? Did you get your driver’s liscense at the convenience store?
Just playin!
Tight rides!
A little review on the Atomic ball diffs;
I’m using the Atomic ball diffs in mine and I’ve got an issue. With the lithiums, Nelly Deluxe and Anima motor I’ve obviously got heaps of power going to the drive train. I’ve got aluminum swing shafts and the Atomic ball diffs which have the plastic instead of aluminum to connect with the swing shafts. My problem is that it slips when I punch it. In fact it slips so bad sometimes that the car spins out. A closer inspection reveals that the plastic on the Atomic ball diff is soft and gives too easily under enough power. So, I might be switching back to the gear diffs since I’ve got some aluminum joint cups hangen around.
Question about the one way diffs; What are they? Do they only turn one way or something?
You could tie it down with two rubber bands. Or wip out some more shrink wrap.
****EDIT****
Sorry, editing this due to bad info I put out. I sat down with the MA-010 yesterday and fiddled with some gandini foams. It wouldn’t be too hard to incorperate, but they would end up sticking way out and they probably wouldn’t run smooth due to too much slop.
So, I’m pretty confident in these here Nellys. My Anima-P motor just fried it’s brushes in the Xmod EVO. The Nelly EVO took it in stride. It had an E.L.P.A. (2s 500mah lithiums), then I upgraded to 2s 700mah lipoly’s.
That makes the score;
Nelly = 1
Motor = 0I replaced the brushes and I put it in a MR-010 AWD with Lithiums and a Nelly Deluxe. After a 5 minute test run the Nelly Deluxe was mildly warm but the motor was smoking……literally. There was smoke coming out of the motor. I think this motor has seen better days. It may have been the comm drops smoking as I put too much on the comm. We’ll see. I’m gonna pull it all apart and inspect it tonight. Still works just fine. It’s much faster, but I need more than my little kitchen floor to really open it up. I’ll get some more info up on that car when I finish a few things. The basic stats are; 2s 600mah lipoly’s, Anima-P motor, Nelly Deluxe, cf shaft, aluminum drive train and 2 Atomic ball diffs.
Well, I hate to say it, but my Nelly EVO may have given out on me.
I noticed the car slowing down with the E.L.P.A. kit, so I threw in some polyquest 700’s with the Anima-P. I figured I had drained the E.L.P.A. down too much and damaged the batteries.
I was going to give them a good test today but after 15 seconds the forward and reverse gave out. No smoke check, but the steering works fine so it’s gotta be the Nelly. All the connections are still soldered down and fortified Micro-Amps style. Plus the car hasn’t hit anything recently. I’ve been driving it well. It’s just been getting slower over time. Even with the new batts installed it was alot slower than it use to be.
PH2T, can I do a Nelly swap with you? I still want to make it work, I just think with it’s history and all I just have a dud fet on the Nelly.
Their prices came down and they also have a 3 battery setup. If you buy 2 of those, you’ll have 6 batts and it’s a bit cheaper than buying 3 of the 2s set up. They also have free shipping in the U.S. for orders over $50. Here’s a linky; http://www.zagi.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=139
Check the capacitors that are soldered to the motor. They may have come loose. If so, then just resolder them.
Does everything he says. I have one of these installed and the car performs way better than the fet stacked cars. Very nice workmanship too.
Sorry to double post but this is a bit of an update.
I noticed that the people with lithiums haven’t been having problems with their set up. So, I installed the E.L.P.A. kit that I’ve had just sitting around waiting for its day to come. The Nelly EVO took it and ran with it. The Nelly and the batteries got a little warm after some hard racing but the motor got scorching hot, which is a good sign. That means all the power is getting to the motor and it’s not getting mucked up in the Nelly. So, my conclusion so far is that with 2WD the Nelly EVO can handle a hot motor, but with AWD the Nelly EVO is going to need more voltage to handle hot motors, I.E. lithiums. It kind of makes sense because I remember PH2T saying that they would run more efficient with a higher voltage.
So, PH2T my car is running good now unless you think that the Nelly still isn’t acting as it should. I need to think about a different motor as my Anima Modified motor really took a beating today. Not sure if it will withstand this kind of beating on a regular basis. Some comm drops are definitely an option and also a better heat sink.
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