HACHI-RYOKU
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They are pretty dead over here. Nobody uses them anymore. Japan is all about the newest things. That was last years thing. Now it’s all new stuff.
Someone already made a pretty nice chart with many motors. I haven’t seen anybody refer to it so I was wondering if it’s coshier or not. I know some of the pros know what I’m refering to. Is it ok to post that stuff here? It’s from another forum. And I know some forums don’t get along, and don’t appreciate certain other forums info being posted on theirs. If it’s ok, then I’ll post it myself. If not, then I understand.
Holy crap that’s nice! You and betty-k are making some mutations that make my cars tremble a little. I think they’re definately scared.
I am a little disapointed though. Only single stack fets?!?!?!?!? What’s going on? Running low on fets?
Oh, I agree. But running the car is not the problem. Just the recharging part, witch is done at a higher voltage and current.
The larger gauge wire doesn’t really sound like a solution when I put all the symptoms together, but it’s worth a try. I may have just jacked it up in the first place with wiring somehow, and ripping the wiring out and replacing it will show me the way. Although that doesn’t really support the signs/symptoms either. I’m lost and guessing at this point. Oh-well, to work I go.
From what I’ve read on other forums, people have put up to 12 volts through the tiny motors. It killed the motor rapidly, but other sources say they’ve put around 9 volts through them with no problem. The next question of course would be the amps. MicroAmps might need to correct me on this, but I think Voltage and current work with other aspecs to bring the value of “wattage”, witch would be the most aplicable measurement of how much punishment the motors can take. So the question may not be about volts or current individualy, although I’m sure they both have a maximum value that’s capable of being pushed through the motors. It may be a question of watts, witch is a value calculated with volts, current and some other stuff.
I use perfection 3.8’s, 4.2pros, and 4.2kings. I mainly run with dual cells w/ fet modded boards and 3:1 gears. I’ve only replaced 1 x 3.8 in the last 6 months. I run the cars an average of once a week for about 2~4 hours.Edited by – HACHI-RYOKU on 23 December 2003 20:23:51
No. I’m using a fet modded 2-speed bit pcb.
I talked to an electronics guru today and he said it’s probably the gauge wire I’m using. I use some pretty thin wire that normally works well with the dual cells, but may not have the capability to keep up with the higher voltage and current from the charging system for the quad cells. I’ll swap all that stuff out tonight and get with you guys when it’s done.
No. I wait a few seconds, then I touch one side. It’s the black dot (chip right?) that gets hot, and the same spot on the opposite side.
I’m pretty sure that if I leave it charging I’ll loose the smoke inside. If it looses it’s smoke, it wont work.:)
Looking good. I definately agree with the thought on patience. I sometimes work with a car for 4+ days before it’s ready to go. It’s so nerve racking! But, a work of art takes time. And it sucks so much fixing a botched job.
AAARRRGH!!!! It’s still not working. Tried the 9 volt and a box setup with 4 x AA’s. The 9 volt and the 4 X AA’s did give a mild charge to the batts, but I had to take it off the charger after about 5 seconds because the pcb on the car was getting hot again. Does anybody elses pcb get hot while charging? This can’t be normal.
This car is about to be the fastest thing into the trash can. It might break all previous records if it keeps on like it is. Damn quad cell! Thinks he’s a real hard case he does!! Thinx he’s so bad!!!
I’ll try 4 x AAA’s next, but I’m about out of ideas. Anybody got any fresh ones?
I got three recently. They all worked ok except the charger didn’t work on one of the controlers. The steering on one was a little off, but I just reseated the magnet and it worked fine. I think the quality control is a little lacking with these. My bet is they rushed them out for the holiday season to increase sales. They probably skipped the QC to get them on the shelves quicker.
The good thing about steering inconsistancies is that you can usually correct it with a bit of fiddling. It’s a simple steering system. It does suck that they couldn’t be a little better on the QC though. They are good cars. One of the better clones.
z-beam. Nice Pics!
barto, you’re no slacker too. I like that custom RX-7 paint job. I’m gonna have to try something similar.
MUH-HWA-MUH-HWA-MUH-HA-HA-HA-HA-HA-HA!!!!!!!
Oops, got a little carried away.
Good luck!
OOOIII! Thanx MA. I didn’t think I mixed up the + & – ‘s, but I couldn’t think of anything else.:smiley16:
Actually, I just figured it out. For anybody else having troubles, just hit up his webshots link under his signature. You’ll find it there.
Sweat job dude!!!!! That’s skill!
I wanna see, but I think that webshots album is locked. I can’t get in.
Hey Kero, I say send some cars to get fet modded and practice dual celling too. When I first started messing with these cars I thought I was going to pull my hair out just trying simple dual-cell operations. Now I’m doing fet mods with shakey hands. Especially after a few cups of coffee. It’s kinda funny to watch. Anybody elses hands shake alot?
It seems more difficult than it actually is. You can look on the internet to learn alot about soldering, electronics and body work. It just takes a little patience and practice. A dremel is extremely usefull for chassis work, but alot of people swear them off too. They take a bit of practice to use efficiently.As far as batteries go, that’s something that every modder with any rep has probably searched high and low for. I’m not saying to stop looking, but I would definately advise against waiting. My guess is that someone will eventually come out with something useable, because battery technology is ever growing, but it may not be in the immediate future.
P.S. I think MA offers dual cells too.
Another thought- would reversing (screwing it up) the current on the charging station give me these symptoms? It’s something I just thought of. I did test and double check, but I may have gotten the + & – backwards.
Hey, anybody got any ideas for my quad-cell beast (4 x 1.2volt/110nimh/digi-q batts/-1/4aaa)? Nothing I have will properly charge it. I also don’t have a peak charger. Anybody have any quick and easy ideas. I tried a wall-mount with selectable voltage. It’s rated at 300ma, and can select any voltage 1.5~12 in incriments of 1.5.
If I do the math, then; 4 x 1.2 volt, 110mah batts = 4.8 volts, 110mah.
If I want a good charge I will need to select 4.5 volts at 300ma, right?
For time to charge; Then 110/300=.36 + 20%= about .43hours. Or about 26 minutes.
Well, when I put it on the charger the the chip on the pcb gets extremely hot. Why???!!!
If I set the voltage down to 3 volts, it doesn’t get hot, but I dont think it will charge. After about 10 minutes it only twiches a little.
And of course, if I set the voltage to 6 volts it just gets hot faster.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.Use whatever you guys want. Most of you were the ones that gave me info and inspiration before so I could make the little monsters. I actually have a ton more pictures. In fact I was thinking of puting together a “how to”, because the dual cells that I do keep the weight very low and back, so the performance is very good, but I wasn’t sure if anybody would be interested.
That green was before I clear coated it. It is a nice color. It looks even better when it’s clear coated. Tamiya!
I want to say it’s a custom paint job, but I would be fibbing. You can get it form the super bit lambo set, or you can save some money and grab it from LXX Super Perfection IV. The super bit looks a little better though. The LXX has 4 different colors to choose from. They’re pretty sweet.
Edited by – HACHI-RYOKU on 19 December 2003 13:49:53
Of course. I’ve seen people replace the batts with lithium-poli batts. I think they were about 3.7 volts. They are a pain to charge and maintain though. You could replace the batts with any power source (within reason). I took my ambulance and threw a 3 volt lithium camera battery in it. It worked, and was very fast. I took it out though, because the battery was very heavy and it would tip the car on almost every turn.
Get them replaced with mosfets.
Or it may just be a certain battery position. Make sure that the wires aren’t only touching, but that there is something pushing it into the battery. Soemtimes it just takes a little pressure to get good contact on the batteries.
Also, merc probably meant to say “can’t, not “can”.
Yes, with a dremel and lots of patience. I also made some simple plastic slots to connect it to the bit’s tabs. Epoxied those on.
About the URL. It’s in the properties, right?
(right click a picture, and check properties. Isn’t the url right there in front of me?)Edited by – HACHI-RYOKU on 13 December 2003 19:23:48
Now????
I would say yes, they are worth dual celling. If the car has good speed and torque, than it’s probably going to get a decent increase in performance. If it’s slow, like cyclona cars, then it probably wont make a good car to dual cell.
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