matic
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Canabits look at this:
where did you order those motors?
where did you order those motors?
Canabits:I was thinking pressing the tape firmly, so only very thin layer of silicone would remain on the tire and it still be centric. But you are right, removing the tape would probably tear it off …
How about this: You take one original tire, press it into plaster, clay or something,let it dry , remove the tire, fill the hole with silicone, let it dry and voila: 1 silicon tire made, 99 more to go….Where did you get the titanium rod?
Actually you can write “ball bearings” into the local search but here is the link to ball bearings:
Canabits: Wouldn`t be easier to spread silicone on the tire then wrap it with tape, let it dry and remove the tape? I didn`t try it it is just a guess….
sorry for being so unpatient but this thing bothers me a couple of days now… You know how it is…
And one more thing; shouldn`t R4 be 22k not 33k ?sorry for being so unpatient but this thing bothers me a couple of days now… You know how it is…
And one more thing; shouldn`t R4 be 22k not 33k ?Anyone?
Thanx Ph2t,I know about those tables but I don`t really understand the meaning of the 2c, 4c or c/2. I build a circuit exactly following the above scheme, adding two LEDs for power and charge (connected to DCin / V+ and V+ / FASTCHG)using 9v adapter, 1/2 ohm Rsense 390 Ohm R1,but that thing doesnt work like it should. Current is sometimes low like 200 mA sometimes over 1A. charge LED goes on and of, sometimes fast sometimes slow, and a slope temination never occurs.
Obviously something is wrong, so I`ll be very gratefull if someone can tell me the values of R1 and Rsense for charging 1-2 batteries at cca 700 mA
…or any other tips will be appreciated…Edited by – matic on 13 March 2004 21:49:38
Just a question: Max712 is for NiMh ONLY and Max713 is for NiCd ONLY ?
If you look at this link
http://www.maxim-ic.com/quick_view2.cfm/qv_pk/1666/ln/enFrom here MAX713 can be used for BOTH types of battery.
Anyone knows for sure?
leonli, get a multimeter they can be very cheap-just make sure that it can read current up to 10A.
Dont worry about the voltage too much. You can use 9-12 V with no problem, just make sure that current is not higher than 800 mA.Why would titanium wear plastic too fast? I had in mind POLISHED titan axle ….
If we draw a line here what we need is:
-alu rims of different designs
-sponge tyres of different hardness
-dual cell chassis
-alu chassis
-carbon fiber chassis
-ball bearing chassis
-titan rear axle (no more bending)
-more gear ratios- something beetween 8.25 and 4.00
-dual motor holder (can be part of dual-cell chassis)
– suspension springs of different hardness (real springs not some plastic crap)
– redesigned charging pad which could actually hold the BitIf you can manage all this you are The King and I will worship you to death….
anyone ?
:):):)
Ads, can you send me board picture and R values by e-mail plz?
Quote:Otherwise you would have some current going into the circuit which would (theoretically) put the sensing circuit on the maxim chips off a bit. I dunno for sure, this is just my thoughts…..
ph2t.
I dont think that PCB could affect the sensing circuit because circuit only checks the voltage of the battery… Or maybe I`m wrong, lets wait and see if some expert answers this…
Quote:Bloody crappy Chinese QA processes! arghhh!Those Chinese probably get 0.85$ for a car so it`s a miracle that cars work at all….
ph2t, BIT racer gears have 3.43:1 ratio….
Hey uA, I just came to the same conclusion since my 40b super lxx controls 49 Mhz car and vice versa. They just took the old frequencies and “rename” them except 49 mhz which wasn`t available before…I wonder if thats legal…
If you fill the hole with epoxy and then drill, u CAN`T make hole centered withouth a lathe.Rolling paper + epoxy or super-glue (yes it works) is the way to go man.
Quote:Hey Merc,
Check out this link – Toys East have a solvent specifically for Bits.Don`t buy this is plain nail polish remover-even smells the same….
Leonli17, let me know if you find the right size tires. I have an old Tyco mini slot car which has cool sponge tires but diameter is only 10mm… Maybe slot cars are the answer …..
About removing front pin:
Take a surface with the 3-5 mm hole. place the wheel side on it so the head of the pin is above the hole then use a small pin or nail (diameter LESS then 1.2mm) and small hammer to punch axle out.
Or you can sink the knuckle in the boiling water then pull out the axle with pillers.Here is some info about pullback tires :
measurments
front 5×12 mm (stock 4×12)
rear 6×12 mm (stock 4×14)
with tires onBecause pullback rear being smaller than the stock ones, you automatically gain higher gear ratio, so the car is slower than with stock wheels.
here are the “real” gear ratios for pullback wheels
-from 1 : 12 you get 1:14
-from 1 : 9.86 you get 1:11.5
-from 1 : 8.25 you get 1: 9.62As you can see the green(fastest) gears on pullback wheels are very little faster than orange gears with stock tires.
I think that sponge rubber should be the best for tyres. You know that black rubber which is used for cheap mousepads. Similar rubber can be bought in some stores and I`m planning to do something with that. I must just think of the right tool for making tires …. Diameter 14 of course ….
I did checking on MS pro out of the box, brand new and here are the results: Axle has a little space so it can be moved left to right. If you press the “gear side” wheel the axle IS alligned, but if you press the other wheel axle ISN`T alligned. I think that torque has a tendency to “pull” the gear-side out causing the car to steer. So if I draw a line under all, the axle ISNT SIMETRICAL ant this was my basic point.
Any other thoughts are wellcome… -
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