merc-blue
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130+50 bux shipping if i could get one to my door RTR with good steering linkages for 150 bux i would be, might MIGHTY tempted
Kero,
I have been planing to but havnt seen any at what i would call a “fair” pricei got mates who recon there sweet, i cant see the appea of 2channel choppers
you gotta learn to feed the power, very slowly,
I had a brushless TF B4 for a while that even if you squeezed in the last 10% in a stright line it would lose it , and your power/weight is alot bigger and probly with worse suspention setup (fact of life that 1:18 cant fit great suspention)wow,
After the Mini-T (out of the box disaster)
i was expecting some teathing problems on this thing aswell,
But if a “clunky” TX and flimsy Tie rods are the only problems
Then losi should be on a real winner
It wont take long for alloy tie rods to be avalible,
and for the TX do as betty did use another oneLooks sweet mate,
Li-po + aftermarket RX/ESC will fix all lifes troubles,
I recon there will be a few more of these in town soonDeffently.
this year was topped of when one of my (built, maintained and crewed) cars did very well in the Rally of melbourne. (i know a while ago)
Will be racing nationaly! in the new biante series, will be a hootboth of them have incredibly low capacitys
most people dont ue tamiya bodies cause there to expensive to damage lol, the resale of a TT01 isnt that good.
you best bet if your just thrashing it around is to keep the TT01 and make it handle arite, i mean you will have no worries dropping a 6turn into a properly constructed TT01 but your setup has to be spot on.
what i would do if it were mine,
Foamies (medium compund)
Bearings,
CVA Shocks (TRFs if i had the money)
Alloy drive shaft
ball diffs
Toe in rears (if you have a choice get 2 degree)
alloy motor mount (and clip on heatsink with fan)
Adjustable suspention set (the set that gives you turnbuckles)
4 degree castor blocks (if you can get them)
and a CF chassis stiffner (possibly shock towers if there is to much flex in them)
for electronics a EA tuned 19T chameleon a decent ESC (name brand not a cheapie) a few decent packs (get packs off racers top end racers only use packs for a month or so they are stilll great for everyone except these anal retentive guys, and they are maintained on top equiptment and well looked after) and a moderate chargera well setup car like this will be a dream to thrash will be much more fun than anythign you could imagine also will drift very well
Put on a set of Sorexs or Takeoffs in a medium compund with a medium insert (dont use sorex rims though)
the venoms are a hopeless motor, i would sya get a “tuned” 19T they are a great combo of torque/speed.
Stiffen up the suspention, the nuts are to adjust ride height not dampening or spring characteristics (cahnge the springs and oil./iston for that)another good idea is get a good quality rebuildable motor, a good 27 turn geared correctly will be haster than a cheap 13 double
only 2.6g? what did you calculate your wavelength as?
i got wavelength at 36mhz to be aprox 8.3276 meters so a quater of this would be 2.08 meters i cant see 2 meters of thats qire being only 2.6gBilboFOL wrote:Added a few pipes out the hood for the engine (I thought it would look cool even though I can’t remember what they are called.)ram tubes or trumpets
Ive got a spare Azzar one if you want it,
i had found a tute online for one ill see if i can find it
1, iwaver arent bad just not on the same level and kyosho, but a few crashes will break a few bits once reaplced with aftermarket bits theyre fine from what i have seen/read
2, bassicaly unscrewing the whole thing a reassembling it all into a new case its not THAT hard you will have to dismantle it eventually aslong as you keep the parts organised
3,they run on 4 AAA cells, so buying a few sets of rechargeable AAAs is recomended, runtimes can vary fomr 5 minutes out to 30 minutes depending on motors gearing and how agressivly its being driven
4, all you need with that is 8 AA batterys for the transmitter and 4 AAA for the car
I had few MR01s in my day and never really held onto them as they didnt drive but recently got a MR02 and i LOVE IT its handles soo well,
Betty 1 cap should do but 2 or 3 cant hurt,
as fo the arial is teh boom CF? if soo coiling it around is a no-no, just get a straw attach it to a landing skid and feed the arial throught that, or if you have 36mhz you can get/make a preloaded arial which are super short and provide good rangeyes ph2t started out here, i wouldnt say he was an “Xmodder” as that title isnt normaly a very nice one but he is deffently a 1:24/1:28 enthusist
ill try to find somthing, by drifting i mean rotational drifitng. it will control the offset speeds of the 2 rotors as you increase the throttle the amoutn of offset needs to change to keep it facing in one direction, want a simple explination, turn the pot all the way in and slowly throttle up then turn the pot all the way out and slowly throttle up you will see its affect, when its in the right possition you should be able to throttle form 0-100% without the nose wavering (side to side or fwd/back drifting is done with COGs and trims. pity the head doesnt come off cause balancing them and getting blade COGs right would really help these models
ill try to find somthing, by drifting i mean rotational drifitng. it will control the offset speeds of the 2 rotors as you increase the throttle the amoutn of offset needs to change to keep it facing in one direction, want a simple explination, turn the pot all the way in and slowly throttle up then turn the pot all the way out and slowly throttle up you will see its affect, when its in the right possition you should be able to throttle form 0-100% without the nose wavering (side to side or fwd/back drifting is done with COGs and trims. pity the head doesnt come off cause balancing them and getting blade COGs right would really help these models
Trent,
when the gyro is setting it self you should leave it to center and dont move it while its centering.
the “?????” trim pot is your gyro rate so bassicaly if it has a habit to drift around in a particular direction tweak the trim pot to stop it. being a yaw rate gyro you will never get it spot on and as your flight goes on it may warm up and start to drift again slightlyTrent,
when the gyro is setting it self you should leave it to center and dont move it while its centering.
the “?????” trim pot is your gyro rate so bassicaly if it has a habit to drift around in a particular direction tweak the trim pot to stop it. being a yaw rate gyro you will never get it spot on and as your flight goes on it may warm up and start to drift again slightlyARR soo sad how whay the hell wouldnt they make them for a MR02 GRRR, beautiful shells
im not sure how it fryed it just stoped responding to any TX signal
Thanks Trent, and RCS i fryed my board today sadly, looks like that project wonr be happening,
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