merc-blue
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The dot indicates pin one it should be in the same spot as the origional which is facing away form the motor/battery terminal
ld you tkae it a step further and a pic of where the motor and pot wires are soldered onto the board (my diagram dissapeared)
lol mate i hope you have a stash of apex seals, silly rotors
Persona, I thought it was quite a hack job i did it all in one arvo
RCS2DIE4 What you offering PM me 😀
PH2T shaft is 2mm or could be 2.3mm (which is a STD size for these heli motors)
its a 180 size motor a 1:18 pinion should go onto the shaft if you grind the shaft for a grub screw (standard pinions are pressed on)
if you want a servo driver i have a UBER tiny one here (from a HS55) if you want it?
if you want to see it in action i still have a spare diff ill see if i can get it aligned better and see if it will survive, more than a rev out to WOT,12A RX2 (nice car :D)
ok gear rear diff and no bearings could contribute also make sure to get the steering trim straight (drive it up and down twaking it each time till its straight)the 2 motor one is a airhogs areoace/siverlit X twin and they are the current entry level plane, and grea tfun and you can tweak them to be quite decent flyers the microflyer is rubbish the wattage rockie is better but needs more room
after that you can either build your own or buy a plantraco butterfly or similar, the 240USD price tag on the butterfly is acctually quite reasonable when you work out what you get in them, i have just built a sub 10g model which cost me a fair bit less, and with similar characteristics, except not in a nice neat package and a fair bit heavyer also i had to do alot of electronics work for the ESC actuators etc and calculating out how much of what can go were..
if you have lots of money you can go sub gram, im pretty sure the lightest known is .7g flying weight pretty sweetbuild it, totaled the rear end on a test rev, then put the motor back into a heli, not worth the total destruction of countless iwaver rear ends
betty, are these the really tiny ones that some one posted a link to a while back? hows she fly? the counter rotating style helis are normaly pretty stable
lol dave i remember my first FP heli flight, got it to about head heght and then it came right for me. i suggest filming from afar but first timers on a heli (with no sim) is always quite funny
the 3PK is only with a special module (27AM) or a special 40Mhz FM Kyosho board
http://members.dodo.com.au/~daviddewit/
microworks/David DeWit have a few small li-pos, other places they are avalible (overseas)
http://www.homefly.com
http://www.slowfly.comhttp
http://www.bsdmicrorc.com
http://www.smarttoolsinc.com/HomePage.htmland theres more if you want them
lol, dont worry mate its been done before, i forgot a ground when making a 8 bit updown decade counter out of just bottom level gates, ahhh there goes 3 hours of time silly patch boards,
no prob for the help, even though i didnt acctually help, could we inquire about what the project is?
you sure you got the wires to the right places on you prototype that circuit looks pretty good at a glance 4V out should still be enought to open the Transistors furthenough to switch the realays, ill look at tha data sheets this arvo to see if thats right, odds are its a silly thing like a reverse polarised diode or somthing? if your 100% sure it all good check voltages after R1 R3 R5 R7 and if there below they switching voltage then tear out R1 R3 R5 R7 and see if that helps but once again will have to look at the data sheet
also there are better cicuits to use, microcontrollers are much better sinking than sourcing might look into that?
nice tank betty they still bassed around the tanks i sold you?
looks pretty sweet also if you want a nicer looking TX LMK i got one that had the joysticks screwed in so you can just unscrew and rescrew them to be all nicelol, thats betty.ks backyard
there is still some grass in the background!great them nanodragon parts will come in handy
soon you guys will be running tyre additives and peltier coolers
WOW man thye are seriously nice, they have some good speed and acceleration but i would never expect a mini-z to handle like that, NEVER
you guys are getting good at driving these suckersits a style of ball/cup join
i finaly got my hands on one of these suckers, i admit it cost me more than 200usd (only abit but has loads more in it)
its a Acme which is the same as the IRC vulcan
my upgrades include :
Atomic Alloy knuckles and Hub Carriers
3racing Alloy steering assembly
3Racing Alloy front shock tower
3racing CF rear tower
Titanium turnbuckles (will be replaced with steel 1:10 kit
Front and rear roll bars
IRC Alloy tuned pipe and header
Kyosho ST sealed OIL filled Differentials
Kyosho Blue Alloy outdrives
eliminated ball studs/ball cups on steering turnbuckles
titanium screwsshould be fun, im sure when Aaron comes down it will come out for a run
i also have a 2speed comming for heri think diff cases and maybe diffs, if the acme is anything to go by but you can fix that without much drama
Mate, ATM some of the boys on ausrc are talking to the council about abit of land. nothing “official” yet. but the 3rd meeting they should come out with what the council wants, soon there should be a official show of hands (will be via some form of paperwork or mass email in or something to show the coincil the people want it)
one way VR front spool depends on your driving style i always droped tie using a one way and put time on with a spool, although one way does make it easyer to spin the car so take ur time and get used to it
yeah i got into winding motors and such. very hard work to get them spot on but recently have been winding bit sized brushless motors (well trying to) for planes. that a PITA teh wire is thinner than hair. but i deffently like the slooted armature. the only other thinkg i would like to see is more advanced bell ends with adjustable timing
really
that sounds interesting if you could find out some info im keen -
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