ph2t
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betty and I always purchase from rcmart.
there is also:
http://www.minizstore.com – good for some hard to get parts but usually 10%-30% more expensive than rcmart.
ph2t.
Z, that ball diff is THE ball diff, bloody expensive the kyosho one….
they’re spring roll shocks dude, not oil, can you get oil roll shocks? or you talking about the damper shock? if so that’s just spring as well…. I though only the mr02 had the oil damper shock…..
ph2t.
I’m sooo tempted to go 1/18 now, soooo tempted….
In like flynn Z, in like flynn….
smart arse….:smiley2:
yeah it was due to the fact that I had no rear suspension setup. I didn’t have my roll shocks installed, nor did I have my rear tyres glued on, as I need to do. I just scored a rear damper shock so I gotta ad that too.
that’s what I mean, until I get the handling ok, there’s no need to increase the top speed, YET!
ph2t.
yeah, there was a typo in the link for the 2nd vid, all fixed now…..
Yeh, the rear end setup is still screwy. I gotta tighten everything up.
ph2t.
Well, here’s a funny video where my rear tyre goes haywire and my car manages to shake it’s own h-plate off, lol….
Divx, (790KB)
http://users.tpg.com.au/ph2t/temp/blooper.aviHere’s some video of my mr01 and me trying to keep the thing from spinning out, bloody rear tyres……
Divx, (1.5MB)
http://users.tpg.com.au/ph2t/temp/nelly.aviThe car in both vids is running:
– nelly 1.1
– 35 turn armature, ball bearing can, plasma dash magnets, carbon brushes
– 9t pinion
– pn-racing motor mount (the best mount there is!)
– GP-750 x 4 Nimhs (heavily mistreated)ph2t.
On a fresh set of nimh’s she was hitting 40kph on the tammy speed checker..
Edited by – ph2t on 21 July 2004 17:11:26
Edited by – ph2t on 21 July 2004 19:03:41
so there’s a track in boronia? it’s on scoresby rd yeah?
yup, same colour as well……
shit man, up until last year I lived in Ringwood, worked in Bayswater… you know that place that makes da trucks…….
my point exactly.:approve:
the only caps that have mega-ultra-superhappy low ESR are tantulum. Do some searching for KEMET & EPCOS, they make some great low ESR caps.
You could prolly get them at digikey, hmmmm, wondering……..
The EPCOS ones come out of the Siemens plant in Bayswater, around the corner from where I used to work..!
😀
ph2t.
yes it will, just connect the + and – from the 4xAAA battery unit to a spare charging base. easy as pie………
ph2t.
lol, dude……
check your email tomorrow, you’ll have the mpg version….
you’re in Melb!!!???? Cool! another playa!
Mate, betty and I were there yesterday for bit of a track test on the latest mods! We’ll have another meet soon, undoubtably!!
ph2t.
Quote:hmm i might be wrong.. oh well.. but im prety sure thatteh caps are to stop revers curret that is generated but the spinning of the motor..the caps quench high frequency noise generated by the motor.
You’re thinking diodes man. A diode is put across a coil to sink the current generated in the opposite direction when a magnetic field colapses, ie: voltage is removed.
ph2t.
Quote:Been doing a little thinking while I’m trying to source some of ph2t’s uber fets 🙂
Unfortunately Its left me with a few questions …ph2t – is there a reason you havn’t stacked the fets on Nelly? I know it would put the cost up, but wouldn’t you further reduce the resistance and increase the max current? (ok weight and cost go up, but would it work and would it bring any noticeable performance differance?)
No reason why I haven’t stacked them. I want to get the best possible fets first. It’s an intrinsic thing…:smiley2: There would be a performance difference, there always is. How much? Only real world tests would possibly show.
Quote:Could someone correct me if I’m wrong but doesnt the mini-z/iwaver regulate speed by pulsing power to the motor … more pulses = more frequently the motor is reciving power = car goes faster, has anyone experimented with putting a cap (larger than the 104 or 103’s for reducing interference) to smooth out power going to the motor? (to large a Cap will make speed changes sluggish I think but the right size might help. Any attempts / info.The speed control used is nothing different from traditional methods. PWM = Pulse Width Modulation. It’s more about the width of the pulse and for how long within one cycle is it on for. This is also known as duty cylce. 10% duty cyle means the pulse is on for 10% of the time in one cylce. Once cylce could easily be 1/1000th of a second long. 90% duty means the pulse is high almost all of the time. Obviously the greater the duty cycle, the greater the average power delivered to the motor. Hence, speed control.
Putting a capacitor across the output terminals will have a negative effect. This is because the cap will sink current when the motor should be. Since this is a cylce, the cap will always be reset and therefore always sinking current to fill it up again.
Putting a cap across the battery though should improve acceleration BUT at this scale people have stated that the effects are minimal. Personally I’m yet to try this, I believe with the right capacitor it could work. You would want a capacitor that had a really low ESR value. (Equivalent Series Resistance, avail on cap datasheets…) A low ESR is like a set of punchy ni-cd’s. The low ESR allows the capacitor to discharge a high current. This is the goal in increasing performance though using a capacitor across the battery terminals….
Quote:Thanksph2t – seeing as you’ve managed to source these awesome fets would you be willing to resell/spill the beans on where you’re getting them?
http://www.digikey.com – Shipping is a bitch, but beggars can’t be choosers(spelling?)…..
cheers,
ph2t.
Kero, great vid!
Pete, don’t be a soggy biscuit,
ph2t.
Edited by – ph2t on 18 July 2004 23:13:24
she’s a bloody beaut!
I love it!
ph2t.
nah, you attach the power wires (from nelly) to where the power wires from the PCB goto. ie: the two battery teminals that the PCB power wires are connected to.
when we say “Drive fets” we mean the “drivetrain mosfets”, yes, we are talking the mosfets that power the motor.
The steering mosfets are located at the opposite end of the PCB. The four wires that goto the front steering servo are soldered onto these mosfets.
The electronics (in principle) between ALL models of mini-Z are the same EXECPT the mr-02 and madforce. These two models have the brake function which is great! Saved my madforce many a time using the brake……
You range issue won’t be fixed with replaced drivetrain mosfets. Sounds like you’ve shorted the arial at some stage.
I’ve had nelly runing on 6 cells with a hot motor no problems….
Note: Short driveways and busy roads don’t mix….
ph2t.
yeah but the thing is merc is that the nice linear throttle control goes to shit!
you lost about 1/3 of your bottom end in acceleration, the neo magnets are at times too strong!
ph2t.
Quote:spinning out all the time you mean? we’ll get him a vid of it…:clown:lol, good one!
:p
every little bit counts man.
*improve current sink through nelly
*improve contact to commutator though better brushes
*decrease the resistance of the coils through fatter wire
*increase the magnetic field utilising strong ferrite magnets
*focus the field intensity using pattern wound coils (if you can, I still suck donkey balls at this)
*ball bearing can and end cap.All of these things are small on their own but put ’em all together and……:shock:
well, you get my drift… :approve:
ph2t.
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