ph2t

[ph2t]

one big, FAT commy…..

[ph2t]

hey kitsune, welcome to the boards man!

ph2t.

[ph2t]

thanks for the info boys, you two were the exact two fellas I was targeting…… lol….

[ph2t]

you twat……

[ph2t]

I thought it was 45 turns, I’m sure I counted it as such……

[ph2t]

piss off bob!

welcome Fly! bout time you sorted your shit out, lol…..

ph2t.

[ph2t]

fucken mad dude, bloody well done!
😀

where is that? heidelberg…….?

Edited by – ph2t on 08 July 2004 23:46:14

[ph2t]

lol, yeah chris, the best way is to just cut them off mate. the less heat exposed to the copper pads at any time, the better…

you did say easiest though, and it’s appears quicker and easier than sitting there with a stanely knife trying to the slice your finger off…….:shock:

:approve:

I hate writing doco, reminds me too much of work……

ph2t.

[ph2t]

chinese

[ph2t]

Quote:

ph2t, this is all just genius…AWESOME….but could you show us some pics on attaching the motor to the motor terminals on nelly? Thanks man!

Edited by – Charlie Brown on 08 July 2004 08:49:30

Dude it ain’t that hard. Just get the two motor wires and push them into the orange terminal block. Then screw in the terminal block screws to hold the wires in place and your done.

[ph2t]

kevsta, if you tug at the turbo, nothing will happen. If you pull at it really hard, you could *possibly* do damage. Please note that the turbo is anchored VERY well, your idiot dial would need to be turned to 11 to break it off……

Tim, I brought your Z back from the dead dude, lol, and you know it. Let’s see here… hmm, stripped screw holes, busted wires, bridged solder tracks, exposed wires and one butt ugly mutant half concieved fet stack that I put to rest….lol…..

Pete, dude you’re making as much sense as always……:approve:

ph2t.

[ph2t]

I’ve changed the orientation of the motor terminal block now to improve clearance for those really low shells.

Here’s a nelly installed on Tim’s mr-01.

I’ve settled into the method of feeding the cables out the front. This allows those people using the centre damper shock avoid any conflict of space with nelly. All I did was gouge out a bit of the plastic on the PCB cover and this allowed the cables to pass through no sweats.

Now to get off my butt and get some proper install doco happening…..

ph2t.

[ph2t]

and where…..

[ph2t]

so what’s a good jap cell then? and no fucking jokes…. lol…

[ph2t]

lol dude, I know. someone doesn’t get out that often…..

[ph2t]

After some play-by-play updates by Jamie I can now happiliy confirm that nelly works well on the XMOD.

thumbs up!

ph2t.

[ph2t]

no shit, that’s what I thought. I’ve scored some panasonic Li-ions from an old laptop supply. They are CGR17670 and they have a capacity of 1250 mah. The tradeoff is that they’re longer BUT they were free, so I no complain…..

[ph2t]

a hot motor levels the scene fellas….the miniscule differences in capacity won’t make too much of a difference in runtimes, not that this will stop me from bying them,…… 🙂

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Hachi, the “suspension” on the front end can cause this. try and use a stiffer suspension plate on top to negate any vertical movement in the front wheel knuckles. this might help.

I’ve noticed putting springs in the front end CAN help BUT if not matched well the problem you describe happens.

good luck man,

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Stuff buying it when they post pics of the armature.

The pattern is clearly evident here:

Mind you the commutator is nothing to cry home about. Yet to see anything that matches the plasma dash for a “beefy rear end!”

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Hey Jamie, check your mailbox dude….

and here’s the solder points, colour coded to the nelly I sent you….

cheers,

ph2t.

[ph2t]

otp, do you have info/links on the type of radios use in standard hobby RF ?? you know, encoding standards, rx/tx types, etc, etc…. that sorta stuff…..

thanks,

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Quote:

ph2t, thought I’d try to help you with finding some FETS with a high current handling capability, and a low RDS on value at 4.5V.

http://www.vishay.com/mosfets/r-ds-on-lteq-10-milliohms/i-d-max-gteq-20-a/

Some examples:

SUM110P06-07L- 110A, 0.0088 ohms RDS on value at 4.5V, P channel
SUM110P04-04L- 110A, 0.0062 ohms RDS on value at 4.5V, P channel
SUM110N02-03P- 110A, 0.0052 ohms RDS on value at 4.5V, N channel
SUM110N02-03- 110A, 0.0026 ohms RDS on value at 4.5V, N channel
SUM110N03-03P- 110A, 0.0026 ohms RDS on value at 4.5V, N channel

lol, nice work. don’t see why you couldn’t use those. Their pkg’s are big though. I like to be as small as possible. The fets I’m using have stats better than those but thanks….lol….

[ph2t]

Quote:

i’m runnin a standard iwaver but with these crazy batteries i got.; when i first got the car, i wacked some grandcell rechargeables in it(never use them they the worst things ever) and it went pretty slow. it then slowed down considerably and i thought that was a bit odd. picked it up and there was smoke comin out the bottom of it.then when i used it from then on, forward was way slower than reverse, so i switched the motor terminals and changed the switch on my controller so when i pulled the trigger the car went forwards instead of backwards. then put these new batteries in it today and it went for a bit, then i hit something and it just stopped. so switched it all back to normal(all the conections etc) and was hoonin it forward but now reverse doen’t work

yeah dude, you’ve blown a mosfet….. you need to replace it to get it working all ok again….

[ph2t]

sounds like you’ve blown one of the fet pairs…. This would explain why one direction works and not the other. what were you running? an xspeed? what chassis? mr01? madforce? etc..etc….

in future please start a new thread and not hijack someone else’s….

cheers,

ph2t.

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