Prabbit
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Mine was stock for a few days before I went brushless with 3 cell LiPo. Radio range was fine. Performance was your average bottom of the line cheap radio.
Now it SCREAMS. Probably does about 45mph. It will pull a wheelie even at 30mph.
-Peter
I put failsafes on all my nitro stuff to protect my cars. I put a failsafe on this project to protect ME and whatever else it could potentially destroy.
Of course I have pictures! The body is a carcas of a kids electric ride in jeep. Also, please note the video is without the engine tuned very well so it’s a little slow. I tuned it a little better since then but it’s still not quite right. I’ve also done a few other mods since these pictures like the 12V Actuator steering, chain tentioner and some other stuff. Also, remember, it doesn’t look like a store bought truck because IT’S NOT. I designed, cut, welded, machined, drilled, bolted and wired every piece.
http://www.geocities.com/pfabersac/quarter.html
-Peter
I’m building a true 1/4 scale monster truck. No, not one of those little 1/4 or 1/5 scale things you can buy online. Mine’s 1/4th the size of a real monster truck. You know, like Grave Digger. Have you ever seen that truck? It’s HUGE and mine’s 1/4th the size of that. Not a quarter scale of a pickup truck like the ones mentioned earlier. It’s powered by a 50cc Honda scooter motor with variable transmission. Steered by a 12V linear actuator and has 16″ (40cm) of TRAVEL and 16″ (40cm) wheels! It weighs about 120lbs (55kg). Who’s your daddy!!! This thing will pull me, a grown man, on a skateboard without any hesitation. Hell, it could drag me down the street on by butt!
-Peter
-Peter
Nitros kick butt when they’re running. My RS4 runs perfect. Never dies, idles perfect. I just bring it in before it runs out of fuel and fill it up while running and go some more. My T-Maxx on the other hand (as well as my Savage and my friends mammoth and my friends revo and my friends storm etc.) just seem to die a lot. It seems we never have them all running at the same time. Well, that and the monster jumps at our local BMX track seem to attract a lot of broken parts.
Anyone thought about making a 1/4 scale monster truck?
-Peter
I have a T-maxx, I had a Savage 21, I have a nitro RS4. Also have electrics.
-Peter
I have a T-maxx, I had a Savage 21, I have a nitro RS4. Also have electrics.
-Peter
Aaron, thanks for the spam. I haven’t been here in a long long time. Competition is a GREAT idea. I don’t have anything good to offer this competition since I haven’t picked up a micro in a long while but you can count on my vote.
AARON – Let me know when you have a “you can submit anything as long as it’s RC” competition. I’ve been very buisy putting in long hours on a new large scale project. You know me, I don’t do anything unless it’s over the top. I’ll be expecting a big prize!
-Peter
(the original 2 cell modder of 2002)Well, let’s see. My dual nimh cell mod pops wheelies and holds the wheelie for about 3 feet long. And, it lasts about 15 minutes on a good charge. Have you seen my wheelie videos. I’m pretty sure Derek posted them on this forum somewhere. Also, I have video of my bit doing an up-side-down loop and a huge 10″ tall jump with ease on my web page.
http://www.geocities.com/pfabersac/BitDigi.html
My next mod will be the mosfet upgrade.
-Peter
Anyone who doesn’t vote for the dual cell mod obviously has not done it. I only say this because I’m the original inventor of the mod!
-Peter
The best thing you can do is a dual cell modification. This will double the voltage in the car and double the strength of the steering.
If the wheels move just from gravity you need to make the spring tighter in the steering. It’s the hair sized spring in the middle of the steering box. You can bend it so it puts more pressure on the steering arm to stay straight. But when you tighten that spring it puts more pressure against the magnetic field for steering. So don’t bend the spring until you make the steering stronger.
Also, you can drastically lose steering power if there are any metal chips stuck to the under side of your car around the steering housing. Metal chips are attracted to the magned in the steering box so they commonly “stick” around the white steering trim adjustment on the bottom of the car.
-Peter
Oh, yeah. I also noticed a longer range once I did the dual cell mod on the car.
-Peter
ph2, I’ve added a frequency amplifier to my controller similar to the second schematic you have posted here. It seemed to help a little but not much. Is was a lot of work for little results. I noticed it seemed to make other bits in the area on different freqs jump a little bit. The best mod I’ve done for range is remove the cripple cap, add a cat5 aerial on the car and a long telescoping aerial on the controller.
I’m at 34 feet (11 meters)
-PeterRight on, you can also use solid core telephone wire. Any solid copper core wire will produce simmilar results. Don’t hesitate to make your new modified antenna longer than stock. I’ve done this mod for may friends and I just leave the antenna really long and tell them to cut it down as short as they want keeping in mind the longer the better.
-Peter
Sometimes it’s not the switches on the circuit board. Sometimes the little studs that the plastic rocker switch pivots on breaks and allows you to push both left and right switches in at the same time. Check it out
-Peter
Sometimes it’s not the switches on the circuit board. Sometimes the little studs that the plastic rocker switch pivots on breaks and allows you to push both left and right switches in at the same time. Check it out
-Peter
If it goes backward when you press forward and backward when you press backward then you could have one of two problem. Most likely you have a bad transisitor on the PC board in your car. The transistors are the little black cube things that line up with the solder points. The Transistors are just used as switches (or more like relays). The steering only uses one transistor per direction since there’s just one coil per direction but the motor is different since it reverses polarity for forward vs. backward. I think there are 3 transnstors involved in forward/backward motion. I’d say it’s probably one of those transistors. The only fix is to replace the bad transistor but most likely you don’t have a transistor laying around. If you want to know how to test them just let me know. If you have another parts car you can swap PC boards.
The other, less likely problem would be in the remote. It’s possible the buttons in the remote are broken allowing it to press the reverse swithc even when pressing forward on the plastic rocker. Open up the remote and pull out the rocker switches and see if the little studs that it pivots on are broken.
-Peter
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