rcs2die4
Forum Replies Created
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Yeah I have a TSC and get the same ‘problem’ as Aaron !! my AWD (unfet’ed) can pass a fully Hopped up MR01 that speed checks at 48K’s (with the rear wheels on both rear rollers)but whenI put the AWD on the TSC it only reads about 26-27k’s
Both cars motor specs:
MR01 : Kyosho X-Speed in yeah racing BB can
5×2 fet stack
42t/13t or 14t gearing (can’t remember, not my car)
MA010 : Kyosho AWD X-Speed in Yeah racing BB can
Standard fets
29t/19t gearing
I don’t know if the AWD’s reading is a truer reading then what you get with the RWD cars or ifthe AWDcan’t unload on the TSC with all four wheels tuning the rollers !!!
The AWD’s seem to roam around on the TSC alot too, you have to hold on to it so it stays in line…Also just for everyones info… With the AWD X-speed in a bb can and the above gearing the motor doesn’t even get warm after a full set of batteries worth of racing!!!! with this gearing and the standard motor, The motor would get so hot that it starts to melt the plastic cross bar in the chassis’s motorholeand burns your fingers real bad after just a few seconds of racing !!! ( I know for a fact
)….. I can stillgo higher with the gearing but haven’t tried it yet..As for my mates Fet’ed AWD I can’t test it for you right now as the drive cups have spun, so he’s waiting for his new Atomic alloy shafts and cups to arrive….. I’ll check it once there in, should be late next week…
L8R
Hey 86,
Only a better connection is needed…..
Make sure that the rows of pins that are closest to the black box are the pins closest to the dot that marks pin 1 on top of the fet !! The dot should be above the top left row of pins
Make sure that the 4 rows of pins (top to bottom) in each stack arenot sorted between each other (left to right) .. make sure that all the pins in each row are connected to each other properly so it makes a continuousline top to bottom… I test each row top to bottomwith my multi meter (I build the stack out of the car then solder it to the board !!!)
Thepins that have to remain in rowsare the pins closest to the black box…
All of the pins on the rear(closest to the connectors where the motor wires go) of each stack canbe soldered together,ie: solder every single pin on the rear oftheleft stack to each other then solder every pin on the rear of theright stack to each other…. then solder each stack to the board…
Make sure all of the bottom 8 pins are connected to the pads on PCB correctly in both stacks… If you have the connections dont right, it will not get hot!!If just one pin is not done right the fets will ! get hot ….
Hope that makes sense!!!
let us know how you go…. 
Edited by – rcs2die4 on 04 January 2006 05:37:06
Edited by – rcs2die4 on 04 January 2006 05:40:35
I’ve never stuffed a screw hole on any of my other Z’s and I’ve takin them apart and rebuilt them that many times it’s not funny….
A mate of mine’s AWD had a big chunk broken off thatI had to glue back on in the front end !! He did it when he hit an objectnear the end of the straight while racing !!! We’ve all hit the same thing with our 1’s and 2’s and have never broken anything !! The awd is stock so ‘maybe’ 20k impact, all our 1’s and 2’s are doing42k’s
and over on the speed checker, so yeahIthink it’s just the softer plastic….On a side note, I just installed a 5×2 stack (7317’s) on the above AWD and the difference is insane, HEAPS more punch !!!!!Cant wait for his AWD X-speed and BB can to turn up and really put it to the test!!…. I’ll be hitting you up for a fet kit Aaron if the results are as good asI think there going to be !!!!
