rcs2die4
Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorPosts
-
Ken, Why has that PCB only got the + side of the motor terminals stacked ?? is it only the forward FET’s that are stacked or something ??
LOL..
Not sure if the standard FET’s will handle “any” motor but the new PCB’s can still be stacked so that it can handle “any” motor !!
With very little mods to an AWD you could do a 2×4 stack so 2 lots of 2 on top and the same on the bottom !! Which of cause would be the same as a 4×2 stack on the older PCB’s
The main difference I’ve noticed since removing the factory AWD PCB with a Redback installed on it and installing the 2.4 PCB is the run times !! they have now dropped quite noticeably !!! But installing a 2×4 stack should bring that back up….
I think other then that it’s awesome having the 2.4 !! no glitching at all, so total control !! but as KEN said it will get even better with the software and cable so that it can be tuned more !! as the steering on these 2.4 PCB’s is so fast and strong !!! you have to basically re-learn your whole driving style !!! It would be great to be able to turn that down a little !!!
LOL… What Dave said !!!! :smiley16:
where can i get the cable from ?
Yeah, I used my KO PROPO Mars 1 with a Mini Z module in it before I got the 2.4 setup.. It was cool having so many settings to tune
and ABS brakes is the shit, but it of cause still had glitching issuses in the garage !!! In the open it was fine but !!KO make a 2.4GHz module but no one could tell me if it would work in the Mars TX so I gave in and got the full conversion kit !!
And yeah the pause between Brake and Reverse is a bit of a pain, but once it’s setup right it’s not to bad !! it’s only .2 of a second
pause but if the TX is not setup right it sometimes will not go into reverse !!..The manual says that you have to use the F/R trim button and click it forward till the wheels start to move in the forward
direction, Then click the reverse trim a few times till the wheels stop, Then a few more times till the beeping sound stops, Then
click it a further 8 times !! this should set it up so that the reverse works but I found, instead of 8 times, 10 or 11 worked better !!Also, with the brakes set to full strength they are insane !!! If you grab full brake it will completly lock all four wheels and
send the car into a slide even if your braking in a straight line !!.. This is were the ABS feature would have been good on the KT-18 !!April 13, 2008 at 1:30 pm in reply to: Installing the Spider V3.0 "Red Back" in a AWD chassis #60041No Probs at all !!!
yeah I spoz if it has no arches then it will work well !!
Na, sorry man you cant !! The wheel base of an MR02 is longer
Hay Talldude,
Mate I cant really comment as I still haven’t replaced my diffs !! LOL
been flat out an also dont have anywhere to drive anymore soo…
but my setup is awesome to drift with but yeah it is hard on the cars though !!!
either way you’ll love it man !! do your self a faver and get one !!!
Hay brycevr,
I found this !! it isn’t just the cover but the whole kit !! sweet price too !!
Renton wrote:im keen as mustard for some race daysI second that !!!:smiley16:
Theres a link to one for sale on ebay in the states !!
Only thing it says is, comes with an X-Speed motor and also an ECO motor !!
Thats about it ….
Yeah having barriers is also safer, keeps you in your lane and helps to minimize head ons !! but thats cool it’s only $6 bux for a cheap ass hose from junk shops like the warehouse and so on !!
I don’t mind spending 10 or 20 to get a few hoses and some gaff tape !! even if it is only for a day !! cheap fun if ya ask me !!
so if a few of us spend 10 or so we could have a sweet as (large) track !!!
My last track was the size of just under 4 car spacers long and 1 and a half spacers wide !! (I had a 6 car garage!!) then I moved to were I am now and went down to 2 car spacers at a friends and now we have non !!! VERY SAD !!
Anyway just food for thought
Whats the surface on the floor of your warehouse like ???
If it’s like smooth garage floor then a quick simple track is to just draw it on with chalk !! this is what I did for some time till we ended up gaff taping down massive amounts of garden hose to out line it !!
But yeah, for a one day track, chalk on a smooth floor is sweet !! also simple to make quick changers !!!
Hey DGS..
I live in a little place called Wallerawang !!! it’s about 10-15min passed Lithgow towards Bathurst !!
Me and my buddy (Mark) up here both have very itchy z-trigger fingers !!
My last two houses had awesome garages with smooth as floors, so racing was almost a daily thing
with permanent tracks !! but the garage at My new house has a real crappy floor and Mark has no garage
so no racing for some time :thumbs_down:We’ve even taken to 1:18th’s (HPI/XRAY) just so we can have a run out the front on the road !!!
But yeah, if you guys aren’t to far away we’ll both be there for sure !!!
I’m also doing (in the next few days) an install and testing for Aaron of the new SP8M4 FET’s into an
MR02 so this would also be a perfect time to test them out !!!So yeah PM me some details when you get a chance and I’m sure we’ll be there !! Between the two
of us we’ll bring 2 modded MR01’s, 1 modded MR02, 2 modded AWD’s and I think I still have a
Monster (Iwaver) some where too !!Also, Thanks a bunch for the invite !!! 😀
Your right !! Sydney Mini Z will NEVER die :worship:
As Big Kev would have said !! I’M EXCITED ….
what scale are you after ?
Isn’t Aussies freq’s now 29MHz for cars and boats as a standard ??
It use to be 27MHz but now it’s 29MHz as far as I know ??
You can of cause still use 27MHz but you get a lot of interference on the AM band. (Not sure about 27MHz FM !!!)
This is why you can have interference hassles with Mini Z’s as there 27MHz on the AM band !! and things like car UHF’s interfere with them badly !!!
I know this cause in my area a lot of people have UHF’s in the cars and every time someone drivers passed my house using there UHF it makes my car go hay wire !! So I now use my KO PROPO Mars EX1 with a Kyosho AM band module in it, but I use 29MHz crystals and it works perfect with no interference at all !!!
As you all know, KO PROPO is who make the radio gear for Mini Z’s so they make a module for the MARS EX1 specifically for Mini Z use !!!
OK Excellent, will sort that out ASAP !!
For the instrum with that pic or if I send you some more pics of both sides of the PCB would you be able to tell me if I could remove two of the fets from the reverse side so I could put them on the forward side as just so I can get it going for now, till I sort the rest out ????
I know it’s a bit dodgy but I really just want to have a go as it’s been over a year since I’ve had my M18 running and as A mate of mine is a HPI Micro in the next few days I want to be able to have a run with him !!
Thanks again
Yep, I follow and I’ll give it a go !!!
I’ve attached a link to a pic of the PCB !! The ESC is two layered,
this is the top PCB… The two plates beside are little heat sinks they are
lined up beside where they go !!!the other side of this PCB has about the same amount of Fets but they still have there heat sinks on
The ESC specs are
voltage input is 4.8 to 8.4
On Resistance is 0.0038ohm
current rating is 1 sec 70A
30 sec 45A
5 min 30A
PWM Frequency 2100 Hzhttp://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b362/RCS2DIE4/My%20Xray%20M18/P1020144.jpg
thanks again
Thanks guys,
OK all thats writen on the fets is
some have
4420
5DWA <– the 5 looks like an S or 5 it's in a different font and the A is more of a symbal that looks like a letter A
.W012some have
4420
5D1A
.W006and some have
4420
5BTA
.W952I have a multimeter but I’m not sure how to test for N or P chan.. any help with this would be great !!!
The ones that were blown were to blown to do anything with but once I removed the bits that were left the PBC and
tracks are fine !!!L8R
it will feel like the difference between an iwaver and a kyosho !! if not, more so !!
Thanks for keeping us updated too !!!
Yes please keep us informed !!!
I had a Pro Z chassis and it was cool but was to hard to get parts for !! Pro Z now do an AWD chassis too but it’s just to hard to get one because of there poor customer service… otherwise I would get one !!
So yeah, Please, Please, let me know once there ready as I would love to get another pan chassis Mini Z…
I ran mine as a 6 cell setup as the first ones were 4 as stardard and had a 6 cell as a hop up !! I think the new ones are 5 cell standard !!!
Wih the RX’s My very first one has a little short range but nothing like what your is doing !! and the second one which should be the same as yours is perfect !! I’ve even used it in the Xray M18 just for testing and it’s got perfect range !!
Yeah my motor bushes did the same thing !!!
I just used a standard Mini Z bb CAN which did make the car a fair bit faster !! Mine also as standard had a stally in it !!! it would stall up till you put a heap of throttle in, then it would unload and take off !!! The BB CAN fixed this too !!!
But yeah, I think the idea behind the extended shift motor is cool but in practice it’s crap !!! I even installed an extra bearing support right behind the motor just like the one on the drive shift near the front diff !! This was a little better again but still not perfect !!!
HMMM, Sounds like there not much better then the one I had so I think I may give it a miss with getting another one !!!!
Keep us updated but !!!!
L8R
-
AuthorPosts