vroomvroom55
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And stop talking about being a “pimp”, if you call yourself a pimp, in reality, your a wannabe.
#1, i dont realy bother with body work that much, mostly the internal work, because when it comes down to it, thats what makes the difference. AND i have been modding in the RC scene for years and years too, i was into micro a few years ago and i got back in a few months ago so i forgot some things. And the only reason i realy even jioned this site was to try to get PH2T to start making nellys again, or else i prefer xmodsforum.co.uk because people their respond much quicker, even now that the micro RC market has crashed.
Yeah true, but in my opinion, getting those tiny cars are not really worth it unless you are just screwing around. If you want to actually drive them, get a 1/28th or bigger, i like the 1/28ths a lot, but the 1/16ths are really fun too, and if you look around a little, you can find them for really cheap.
Idk i thought PH2T made them, i used the nelly for performance and the spider has a better stability rate, i kind sc****d through both of them. Then i couldn’t figure out exactly how the V2 sent the perfect amp and voltage back to the PCB so there was no servo studer or any problems with the lighting like the underglow and the head/tail lights. So if anyone can tell me where to get a nelly or how to get one made, plz tell me. I found like 2 places online but they cost to much, $50 for a used nelly that needs some work.
Your pimpin in a scion xb!??!?!?! thats like pimpin with grandma in the car next to you, or pimpin with fat ugly chicks. Who do you pick up?Rrosie O Donnell? Well good luck with that mr “pimp”…..
There wont be any interference as long as they ar all using different frequencies or channels. And if you want a good cheap car, buy a 1/28th. I prefer xmods over mini-zs because mini-zs cost too much for the car itself, $150+. Xmods are pretty cheap, if you go to radio shack they cost 30-50 dollars, or go online and buy them. The other 1/28ths are not bad, but i don’t like them, mainly because they are barely any worth while parts for them and they don’t have nearly as much handling or nearly as much speed as a xmod or mini-z does. If you want the best of the best, go buy some mini-zs, they are ***like, they have they best in everything, speed, weight, handling, upgrades, and availability, all hobby shops carry them. If you want good and affordable, buy a xmod.
And if anyone is wondering how i burned them out, its as simple as having a tiny button lithium battery on the master PCB connecting the rest of the electronics together, and me accidentally creating a short with either my soldering iron or my very pointy tweezers. And i think i might have burned out one of the Li-Pos too, good thing i but a micro breaker on each of the 3 packs so if one frys or shorts, the other stay safe, need to now wait for the new breaker to come in, some more heat shrink, and the V2.2. Im also at a dead stop till i find another nelly.
well….crap, me nad my cousin were trying to clean up the multi PCB config and wire/soldering, and i just burned out the V2.2 and the woah nelly. Im going to send in for a new V2 soon but does anyone know where or how i can get a new nelly? Plz?
Yeah it was a pain with the 3 external boards, then those three boards were connected to a “central” external board. The throttle is usable because we did a little switch and i’m using a “Pro” style controller with a digital throttle controller so i can lower the max throttle and speed making it drivable. And like i said im not posting a single picture till im done with the body, and my cousin is going to clean up all the soldering and cut the wires to the appropriate sizes so it will actually fit, but i may post pics of the car while we were building it, maybe a pic of the car with the stiletto, all the wires we used, the li-po packs we used to make the 3 pack, and maybe some of the caps and boards we used. But from what it looks like right now, the body is going take a few weeks to finish, i have body parts coming in from the UK, China, and Australia, then i have to wait for my friend who is like a airbrush master to come back from Greece to paint it for me.
@Felix2010 230455 wrote:
Yeah, that’s definitely one of the fastest 1/28th’s I’ve heard of.:D At least on a speed-checker. Any plans for a street run maybe? I understand if not, pavement/hardtop can be very unkind to Xmods/MiniZs….;)
Got any pics? I’d love to see this beast.
Do you own a MuchMore Motor Master (or similar motor performance checker)? I’m interested in knowing the specs of your Atomic-M1-modified-Lightspeed-Pro motor: Amp draw and Rpm @4.8v and @6.0v. You said you are running a 6-cell Lipo – Is this 3S2P, or 3 pairs of 2 cells in series for a total of 11.1-12.6v? If you’re running a 3S lipo pack then I cannot even imagine what the Amp-draw and Rpm of that motor is @11.1+ volts….
Well the X2 is about 110k rpm at 7.4v with lithium ion and a low RPM gear setup, and M1 endbell technology along with all the extra PCBs and the PN Racing super cap, i expect it to be at least 160k rpm with the same gear setup, i tried to go more towards the torque then the rpm because i actually wanted the car to be able to hit the top speed and be controllable. ( If i went for maximum rpms then the car would have slim to none torque and it will be incredibly unstable.)
IM not done with the body yet so not gonna post any pictures yet. Also i dont have the motor master, i was gonna buy the team orion rpm meter and mod it to be able to use size 130 motors, but that would cost 200-300 dollars, not worth it for just a rpm meter. The li-po is 2 cells in each pack, and 3 packs, so that’s three pairs of 2 cells, but i had to make another external board next to the nelly and the pn super cap that regulates a 6v to the board to cut servo jitter and to prevent burnification of the PCB, so that involved about 10 visits to radio shack, a v2.2, and a old spider turbo, not really sure how it works but my cousin is good at all this PCB and micro component stuff so he did it for me. All i know is that he had to somehow stack the spider and the nelly for more current capability and he had to connect the nelly/spider stack in a crappy board that we got for 6 dollars at radio shackto the V2, than a bunch of high current MOSFETs and a bunch a resistors i ordered online. So if you want to be able to run the Atomic X2 hybrid with 6 lithium polymer cells, count on spending at least 400 dollars in parts just to be able to run them, let alone buying them and putting together the li-po pack with a over/undercharge board. Mounting the 3 li-po packs was a pain too becauseyou have to put 2 throught the holes in hte stiletto and one in the middle layer, right in the middle of the other 2.
Ok so if maybe anyone could help us hunt down the owner of undergroundxmods.com, or if anyone can find out or anyone that might have a clue about where he got his XXL-Large armature and his silver wire made that Felix was talking about, please tell.
I would get the upgraded ones but i bought a 10 pack of the upgraded FETs for the Xmod Evo, 5 of each type, so im having a 2*3 stack on my R8 and a 2*2 stack on my Hummer, and the stock FETs that was removed im going to use on my Bumblebee Camaro i save a little money. The person who is stacking my FETs for me said he will do all 3 of my cars for 10 US dollars, so i think that’s pretty cheaper considering that every other website charges 15$ or even more for installing a single layer of the upgraded ones. Also i heard that the more i stack, the faster the car goes but the slower it turns, can someone tell me more about this, i think it has something to do with what BettyK was saying.
that sux, i just checked teammnm like you guys mentioned, its closed too, but what i dont get is why no one else in America makes the X2 Light Speed Pro, that was the fastest motor i owned until i fried it trying to do 16 volts on the tamiya dyno. 🙁
They are all the same FETs, but im not sure if it would even do anything because they are the stock FETs, and if would work, would a 2*3 stack of the stock Xmods Evo FETs be equivalent to a 2*1 stack or maybe even a 2*2 stack of upgraded FETs?
No one has any idea!??!?!?
I tried mini-z a few months ago but i couldn’t figure out how to mod the suspension for the ******ed way i steer, on the xmods its as simple as getting alloy part, modding with a little smelting gear, and drilling new holes……lol, so i ended up selling it, anyways no matter what happens, the Woah Nelly HAS to return back to life, i usually don’t get to much into forums because i usually forget the password(i wrote it down this time), but i had to join just to “try” to convince ph2t to start making them again, at least for special orders or something.
If he starts making them again, ever one will want to have one in their arsenal next to one of those sick new “bugs”, i remember topping out at 52mph with one of those monsters installed on a gen1 corvette….lol
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