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You can get this cap at Radio shack 100 mf.
Thanks Steveg. You’re probably right. I just assumed it was voltage regulated since the cheapest DC motor control that uses pulses that I’ve seen is $80. Of course those are for 1/16 hp motors too. But you’re right, pulses to control DC motors is the best way to go. Lower RPM with same torque ratings. I would have to hook up my o-scope to determine if those pulses were there since the voltmeter will probably show a lower RMS voltage instead of pulses.
b_drift. Current is directly proportional to voltage. When voltage drops, amprage drops. Completely linear equation V=IR (Voltage = Current X Resistance) The cap in cars keeps the voltage up, which any size cap would do but they use large capacities like 1 farad (in my car) to keep the voltage up longer when current is drawn. A.1 farad would keep the voltage up but as soon as the amp took a lot of current (bass note) the cap would give it all the current it had which would only be a fraction of a seconds worth. Then the voltage would decrease since the cap has no more stored energy until the bass note is gone and it can recharge. The 1 farad cap is large and keeps the voltage up throughout the entire bass note and then recharges when there’s no base. It’s just kind of a buffer.
-Peter
-Peter
Thanks! B_Drift!!
i’m happy-happy-happy
Ideas should never be trashed, just revised sometimes.
2 rotor heli sounds great. The rotors will have to be turning opposite directions to keep the heli from spinning around in flight (same reason for having thetail rotoraimed sidewayson a single rotor plane)which is perfect since the motors in the digi spin oposite directions for left and right. And your right again, it will tilt forward and backward with left and right movement of the steering. I have a feeling it will spin (turn)one direction when going forward and another direction when backward since the opposite spinnig rotors won’t exactly counteract eachothers torque. Just like changing the pitch on the tail rotor of a single blade heli.
Sounds like good idea, I think the next challange will be making it light enough to get off the ground with such little horse power.
-Peter
Strike 1 … Strike 2
darn, i gots to get one. got booster but mo meter. b
If you make my AC charger your remote batteries will last many many many times longer and you car will charge better than with any batteries. No pressure, just a suggestion.
-Peter
hey, i use the counter. it does not keep cars individual laps if racing at the same time. basically it counts whenever something passes the finish line. so it is good for 1 lap races w/ mulitple peoples, or 1 user for many laps, or as a starting sounder. beep, beep, beep, beep, BEEEP!!! to widen the range if your track lanes are wide, put a real mirror instead of the crappy foil sticker.
there is also another maker for a counter/timer. it was for the digi-q. was it beesoft? i forget, but it had a bee in it’s logo and they were the ones who made the game bomberman etc…..
b
I don’t own one but from what I’ve read of other people talking about theirs it can’t differentiate between cars, I’m guessing it uses an infra-red beam between the main unit and a reflector to just sense when anything goes between them.
I’ve been thinking about making a lap counter using my old Psion Organiser II as it’s fully programmable and I just recently found some code to be able to read the top slot connector, but you’d have to have separate lanes for the cars to go through to increase their lap count because it’s impossible to differentiate between the cars.
I gather they use transponders of some sort for 1/10 RC car races? we could do with some miniture ones.
I used Energizer Lithium AA batteries and they last pretty long too. I think the bit CharG runs longer on thischarge, but not too sure. Lithium AA batteries are expensive though, 5 bucks for just 2 batteries!
Is the answer to your question.
Toyeast.com has them for $8.90 + $6.00 airship. (figure 7-10days delivery)
I ordered mine, but I haven’t received it yet. (The beauty is that it could be used for any type of r/c or slot racing)
-Floyd
wouldn’t this also work on a 2 prop plane? okay. i guess i am taking the digi-q off the for sale page.
b (a.k.a. future digi-q murderer)
cool. i got 3 extra old style motorola pagers from work.
hey prabbit, how does this sound. use a digi q for a forward/back/up/down moving helicopter.
the digi controls 2 motors seperately. both spin at the same rate when the controller wheel is not turned. this could control the up/down movement.
if you connect theleft side motor to the front andright side motor to the rear, then when you give throttle, the heli will lift evenly, but when you add in turning the wheel to the left/back, the heli’s rear will get higher than the front(or the front will drop lower than the rear), gotta see exactly how this works. so when i turn the wheel to the right/front, the heli’s front will effectively get higher because the left/rear motor wil be spinning faster than the right/rear motor.
this is all on a 2 evenly sized top rotor heli like the military transport ones.
tell me if this is worth trashing my digi-q for if no one buys it. b
cool. and you got a special edition. have fun. b
okay. since the cap is going from the bell to the housing, it cannot be for charging, so that leaves performance or ???? (looking for a cap to try this with)
peace b
I just modified my Xanavi Hiroto GT-R 57 MHz
transciever (It had a 30 pF cap). The range increased from 4 ft to 15 ft. That’s so cool!! I don’t have to follow my Bit CharG everywhere now. (like walking the dog).hey thanks prabbit. so is it the voltage or current that drops causing the soggy time? (it was 8 years ago when i was into stereos so i can’t remember) and what did the cap for the subwoofers keep constant for no soggy times?
so about the original topic, can we assume that the cap was not to cut out noise because they used a big cap when they could’ve used the tiny plate types?
so that leaves helping get a good charge or keeping up running performance or ??????
b
Peter,
Just one comment. I fairley sure that the voltage applied to the booster car motor is the same whther or not the booster button is pressed. The slower speed is created by using pulse modulation, power is applied to the motor in short bursts (every 100th of a sec or so), this gives the power of all the voltage, but with a slower speed. With the booster pressed, the voltage is constant.
Pulse Modulation is the stanrd way of reducing the speed of a motor without reducing the power. The reason the bit is loader without the boost, is because thats when the motor is being turned off and on very fast.
I think they said the FOAMING type of Oven cleaner. I have some cheap “Spray” oven cleaner, and it didn’t do jack to the paint. the brand I have is “Easy Off”. Like I said.. it sucks.. use the Foaming type.
Also off the subject, Oven cleaner is great for cleaning the underside of your car’s hood.. gets the oil and grime out. But it can also take some of the paint of if you have a crappy paint job, like my bro’s car. :smiley2:
you know Keyence actually came out with the first ever micro RCs, several years back, and well before the bitchargs. They were smaller than the bitchargs, and were acurate scale models, they werent cutesified, like the digiQ’s.
Peep my link below to see the Keyence palm sizedHelis.
deejay40
The nail polish remover took awhile. You know how when you stay in the water a long time, your fingers start to wrinkle? Well, the Bit Char-G shell did its own little take on that. And don’t feel like a goof, fabiobizarre3, I did the same thing. You’re just learning from my mistakes. It did take awhile to destroy it, but it also clouded the clear plastic (“window” sections of the car) nearly instantly, when just applied with a cotton swab.
For the dual motor idea, I remembered that there is this cool mount that the micro motors snap into inside your typical motorola pager. It is very secure, as it takes a bit of force to pop the motor out. you could probably the mount on top of the motor cover/heatsink, then just snap in/out the 2nd motor. Just a thought…
deejay40
I’ve got a voltmeter… but no booster cars!!!
Sorry.
I know I’m crazy but it takes one to know one!
-Peter
It’s lacking power already because of these tires. And the steering is pretty sluggish. It has 3 times the mass to move with these tires replacing the original front tires.
-Peter
Well b_drift, here’s my theory on your question.
First of all, in the regular car the motors aren’t maxed out. The only take as much current as the need based on voltage. Ohms law is V=IR. R is the resistance or impeadence of the motor windings, V is the voltage applied to the motor and I is the current it will use.If the booster car adds more voltage, do the algebra, the motor takes more current. So, the motor’s aren’t necessarily maxed out, it’s just they won’t take any more amperage based on the voltage they are being given. So, if more voltage is given, more amprage will be drawn and more power made. Now, if too much voltage is applied, then the amperage will increas to where it will get hot and melt the brushes away. (Volts xAmps = Watts) and watts is directly proportional to heat. The more watts, the hotter. That’s right, do the calculation on a light bulb. 100 watt bulb at 110 volts means .9Amps is being drawn (of course it’s AC so a few other rules apply but close enough).A 100 watt headlight that’s 12 volts is 8 Amps.
My cars with upgraded motors did the same thing, soggy. When I put the NiMH battery in they lasted a LOT longer before getting soggy. I’m sure it’s the battery that’s to blame for this. However, running your stock battery down is necessary if you want top performance out of your battery but with NiMH you can regharge at any time without the battery developing a memory.
OK, so, I believe there are three stages of the battery power. Peak, Normal and Soggy. With regular NiCad and 2 charges back to back my 2.2 was aprox. 30seconds peak, 4 minutes regular and (depending on warm or cold) 1-3 minutes soggy. With NiMH and 4 charges back to back my 2.2 was 2minutes peak, 20 minutes regular and 5-8 minutes soggy. Now, I know you’re thinking, so what, longer run time. That’s not what’s so good here. I’ts the Peak Time that kicks butt.
I belive Peak time is simmilar to the boost button. Yes I’m sure the Boost button applies more voltage to the motor but I’m sure it’s within specifications of the motor. I think peak time right after a good charge on a regular bitapplies the same voltage as the boost button on a booster car. Also, the AC charger that I made peaks the battery a little better since it’s .5 volts higher then the remote. The booster cars probably have two transistors for the motor and one of them applies a higher voltage to the motor when the boost is pushed. This should be OK since the boost button is pushed once the car is moving. I’d be willing to bet the motor wouldn’t last as long if the booster cars appliedthe highest voltage at startup.
Have you ever given your bit throttle while on the charger? Have you heard how much faster it sounds? Well, that’s what a well peaked battery will sound like for the first 10% of it’s life if well peaked. I don’t think the remote chargers are very good at peaking the battery.
To prove it I made a jump that my normally charged battery couldn’t quite make it up. I’d give it a good running start and it would just about make it to the top. This was with a battery that was fresh but not at peak. The car ran like this for 20 minutes with the same performance so I knew it was in the normal power range of the battery. Then I put it on my AC charger for 2 minutes so it would get a good peak and tried it on the same jump. It went right over, no problem! It kept going over the jump for 2 minutes untill it went back to normal. Then it wouldn’t make it over for the next 20 minutes. NiCad batteries are the same only they have less capacity meaning all these times are cut in 1/3. Peak is only 45 sec and normal is only 6 minutes (assuming you charge well). Give this test a try. tell me what you think. Make a jump or hill that your car barely makes it over after trivnig your car for at least a minute. Then charge it back to back 3 times and dirve it over the hill right away. I’m sure it will go over! No imagine you had that kind of power for 2 minutes.
I don’t know how much faster a booster is then a bit. I don’t know how much voltage is applied. I don’t have one. Sorry. All I know is my bit (modified with NiMH, Blue gears, bullet motor andgear)is so fast it’s hard to stay in my track that’s only and oval on a 4X8 pool table and it goes over jumps that it usually can’t land because it gets so high and far the car bounces all over when it lands. I’ts too fast to race on a tight corse but great for drag racing.
-Peter
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