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BDrift
I’ve done the CAT5 mod to my cars only – NOT the controller. The length of all the antennae is 70mm (from the antenna clip to the tip) except for the 57MHz car, which is fitted with a 90mm antenna.
Excellent increase in jitter-free range.
But, as Prabbit advised, make sure you get construction-grade CAT5 – cutting a section of the multi-core stuff from the patch lead at the back of your PC will not be very effective (oh…. and you’ll probably lose some of your network connections, too :smiley2:)
Derek
hey prabbit, how long did you make the car antenna stick out? what about the cat 5 on the controller side, how long? does it flop down? b
Just to echo Dave’s question….
If there’s someone in the UK or Germany who would be happy to order/ship internationally please let me know.
To save on shipping costs and, more importantly, TIME for the person doing the shipping, I’d be happy to organise a co-operative purchase for interested people in Australia. We can just bring in one bag of wheels by airmail or courier and split ’em up into std 45c envelopes for postage around Oz
Just drop me an email if you want some of the wheels or, more critically, can help get a bag of them to Australia in the first instance.
Cheers
Derek
XrSiSt
Thank you for your feedback and encouragement.
Hope you’re having a ball with your Bit Char-G! :smiley15: Your addiction has just begun :smiley2:
Where abouts are you in Australia? I’m trying to get an idea of locations before I start planning the first Aussie Bit Char-G Grand Prix. Will try to make the location as central as (reasonably) possible so we can get a good roll-up.
Cheers
Derek
YES. unsolder your old antenna and replace it with 1 strand of Construction grade Cat-5 ethernet wire and do NOTtie a knot in it. There are 8 strands in there just use 1 strand. Construction grade is solid coper wires instead of stranded. This helped my range quite a bit. I also drilled a new hole for the antenna in in the middle aboe the windshield (like new VW’s). Just to have a different look.
-Peter
The remote charger works on the NiMH batteries. If you charge them 2 times you’ll see an improvement over your NiCads but if you charge them 4 times you’ll see a big improvement. However, the remote dosn’t peak the battery like my AC charger does.
You wouldn’t have to take the battery out every run. A switch on the car is a good idea but not necessary!
I almost forgot to tell all of you
THE NiMH BATTERY IS A LITTLE BIT SHORTER. You have to bend the battery tabs in or wedge a piece of something behind the negative terminal. I prefer bending. You should stick a small screwdriver behind the terminal where it’s already bent a little bit, then use another screwdriver to make that bend sharper.
-Peter
If you would like to learn more about startup capacitor theory you can go to yahoo and type in: “starting capacitor” theory. be sure to include the quote marks as you will get a more definate search. Most of them are about AC motors but most of the theory applies to DC motors. The main difference isthe cap is placed in parallel instead of searies (I think).
Please, if anyone disagerees with anything I say, please post something. Some of my information is fact, some is educated guess. Please don’t take ALL my words as fact.
-Peter
I’m confident, after your LED hookup, that these are pulse controlled. When you measure voltage of a pulsed output with avoltmeterit will read rms (root means squared) voltage which is kind of an average. So your voltage read lower with boost off but it was really the same voltage, just in pulses.
-Peter
nice. how is it being held on? b
all i could find was that the 6.3V 100?F condensor was put in front of the motor and on top of hte thing. anyways, it seems that the whole car’s setting was for drifting. sorry. but i believe it’s just an addition to hte electric input into the motor….
jmauldI agree with all 4 of your suggestions. It could do all of those! I didn’t notice any changes on mine but it could make slight changes that I wasn’t noticing.
But, anyway, great theories!
-Peter
Look at the picture on this site:
http://www.mars.sphere.ne.jp/ex2/bit/1_custom.htm
The Vcc point has high voltage (actual battary voltage). But if you measure at the GND point on the bottom left corner, it will be electronically cut by half. This guy, who seems to know what he’s doing, says that it’s pulse controlled. But like I said, there’s a voltage difference. So either it’sboth or I didn’t measure incorrectly. However, since there’s a difference in voltage at Vcc between boosted and non-boosted state, I believe that some kind of voltagemanipulation is also involved. I measured it while the motor was out.
Steveg is right! xsracer hooked a LED up to his motor terminals and it pulses on normal driving and is constant when boosted.
Good call Steveg!
-Peter
nice, what did you get the body from? I want to do a Mach 1 and maybe a ’49 merc lead slead.
THANK YOU XSRACER!
What do you mean by 2 voltage points? Where are you measuring? At the transistors?
When you tested voltage at motor was the motor out of the car and you tested the terminals or was the motor and wheels hooked up and spinning as you tested voltage?
I guess your LED trick proves that the motors are pulse controled instead of voltage controled.
-Peter
I’m using a NiMH battery (neither bit nor bullet). I don’t have pics of Cat-5 antenna mod but it’s easy. Take some construction grade cat-5 wire (should me solid copper core, not stranded) and use 1 wire a little longer then your current antenna. Unsolder your antenna and solder the Cat-5 on. It improved my range by quite a bit.
-Peter
The plane dosn’t matter if same or opposite direction although I’ve never seen them spinn opposite probably because the propellers are all same direction. It will probably be easier for you to resolder 2 connections then find different direction props.
-Peter
Just removed mine!
I?m new here BTW; Hello!
cool. well, i guess it is toys r us time for some donor toy bodies. the 1.49 section should have cool bodies. b
question, in the 2 prop plane, do the props spin in the same direction? it would be as simple as switching the wires contacting the motor? b
cool. so it should be acting as a buffer,so maybe with your ac charger giving you such a good charge, that may be why you saw no difference. i guess, i gotta give an opinion with a normal charger on a nicad batt. b
hahaha. that is some funny sheez. b
so is there a cap on the multi controller somewhere? b
cool. cat-5 antenna mod? pics?
yeah, the bullet motor is fast.
my steering sucks in my bullet though. very weak. i have an exra board, so i’ll try this hybrid too and see how my results are. b
ps. what battery bit or bullet?
deejay40, do you have a bigger pictures of the diorama stuff? Can you post it somewhere? HLJ has all that stuff on pre-order but they don’t have any pictures yet. Thanks.
There are two voltage points, similar to non-booster cars. The low point is always about 1.3V and the high point is 3.0V in boosted state and 2.7V in non-boosted state. That’s not all, however. In non-boosted state it’s not a constantvoltage. Although the voltmeter shows it a constant, if you connect an LED to the contact in non-boosted state, it will flicker. Which kind of sucks. You should be able to see it with an oscilator but I don’t have one. I also took the measurments of the voltage going to the motor. I’m not sure that this is correct but it seems to be 1.3V for boosted and 0.7V for non-boosted. However, I’m not sure about these two measurements.
Good catch, I’ll look there too.
-Peter
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