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any coments?

Please fell free to Register :smiley16:

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@Aaron 225282 wrote:

I haven’t checked into the Losi Micro. The v3 platform with micro wiring would fit somewhere on it, but if it’s electronically compatiblem I wouldn’t know at this stage.

A.

Thanks a lot for your reply…then, we’re waiting for you to come back…Happy Easter !

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@Aaron 225263 wrote:

Spider v3.0…works with Mini-Z, iWaver and Xmods.A.

Can we use it with Team Losi 1/36 Micro T, too ?

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Hi mate,

I just got the same kit as you, awd skyline. Firstly I’d recomend not getting too carried away with upgrades (hop-ups) until you can handle your car. Also before you upgrade make sure you understand what areas of your car need attention and how to go about getting the desired effect.

The first thing you need is NimH rechargable batteries and a charger. I use duracel, I don’t think it matters much which brand you choose at this level. I have 2 sets of batteries so when one set runs flat I have another ready to go.

The first upgrades I would consider are:
An aluminium pinion with locking screw. This is the small gear on the end of the motor. Extended running times builds up heat and expands the pinion causing it to fall off, I have found this the be a major pain in the ass.

Secondly I would look at getting a good set of bearings. The standard bearings are ok but they wear quickly and cause more friction than a good set of roller bearings. This will increase you run times.

After that maybe tires, but that can be confusing so do you research.

Goodluck.

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I’d prefer to have a crack at fixing it, but i’ll keep you in mind if I change my mind.

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I work at Gear Design & Service, im an apprentice fitter & turner. I only work saturdays if I want to, usually do, the money is good.

Thanks for the heads up mini-g.

I’d love to meet up at this track sometime.

Got my ma01 today, loving it. You can tell it has heaps of potential. Few problems tho. The pinion fell off after just 20 mins running. Also the new remote (tx?) is pretty crappy, im using the one that came with my mr01 still.

I burned out a fet on my mr01 so its dead for now, i’ll try fix it sometime.

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Nup, definatly thomastown. Thats the biggest track i can fit in my house, I might make a bigger version that I could lay down in the driveway. Currently a stock mr01 and stock ma01, I’ll probably buy an mr02 then start hopping them up. I can finish at 2 on fridays and saturdays, maybe next week.

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My work is on settlement rd, near high st. My new ma01 is at the post office, I pick it up tomoro :smiley14:. I bought some of those interlocking eva foam mats today to make my own track. They’re 61cm square and currently $17 for a pack of 4 at Supercheap Auto, I got 4 packs to make a small track.

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I live in SE subs (Ashburton) and work in northern subs (Thomastown).

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Do you think we can use the v3.0 on a Team Losi Micro T ?

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Hi Aaron, congrats on the marriage despite all your wedding woes…
The AWD Speedy is awesome, hanging out for the Spider 3.0.. i am addicted to speed!

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Hihi all,

very happy to see people racing Mini-Z in Sydney.

I will be moving up to Sydney @ March, where you guys race normally?? Can I join and have fun???

Cheers

Zenkins
zenkinsw@hotmail.com
0414 618 524

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okeydoke, so i opened it up and poked around, and reattached the plastic spoke thing from each wheel to the crossbar with a magnet attached to the middle of it. is this what you mean by spring? Because there was nothing when i opened it (or closed it up!) that resembled a spring in the tradtional sense of the world. Seems to be running fine now though, if perhaps a tiny bit slower and joltier. Better than not turning at all like before!

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okay, so after a day or possibly two of enjoying my previously working yoshi, it has gone kaput. well, sort of. And it has hardly been used. like, five or six recharges& runs.

Basically, it won’t steer now. Well, it will turn one way, sporadically. As in, sometimes it pays attention to me pressing the turn left button (or maybe it is right) and sometimes it doesn’t. And it will never turn at all the other direction. When it does work steering in the one direction, it’s a less strong turn that it used to have (as in, the magnet that pulls the wheel in seems to pull it in less far and also more slowly.)

What would have caused this? It hasn’t had any big falls or anything, and it’s hardly been used. I’m not sure how, but the white thingy on top of the main kart unit (piece of plastic, plastic crossbar across the top and spokes that go down through to the other side? seemed to pop out on one side – i popped this back in, but it hasn’t worked since around that time (unfortunately i can’t remember exactly when it stopped working.)

Is this easily fixed, and is it because of something i did, or just loose wiring?

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@Dangerous Dave 225053 wrote:

you have to carefully lift the board up, it will probably kinda hinge from one side.
The tiny steering wires will be holding it down on one side (or at the front), just gently lift the board at the free end and you’ll see the battery underneath.
Note the battery orientation, then carefully manouver it out, again watching out for the steering wires..

:beer:

thankyou so much for your help! I didn’t expect it to work, (being a cynic) but it did! And now I have a wonderful little remote control yoshi.

Now, a question I’m sure you are used to hearing what with the active bit char-g modders community – how do i make it faster! Haha. What is the easiest way to get it going faster? Different gears or a different motor or both? Also, how easy is it to acquire parts, and which ones do you recommend? And will i have any problems with this being a japanese model, needing japanese parts or would aussie parts suffice (and do australian parts even exist?) Presumably, standard bit ghar-g parts work in the nintendo licensed cars? And are these things easy to install, or do they require soldering and other mad skills?

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okay, so the yoshi casing came offf quite easily, but from there i am stuck. the only thing that looks like it is meant to come off is a plastic covering over the circuit board-type things – this opened/unlatched at one end, and swung upwards. the board underneath seems to be connected. any other way in?

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@Dangerous Dave 225047 wrote:

bugger that, send your parts to ME :p

I’d check the interior battery terminals first, if there’s any kinda green corrosion or otherwise clean them up and it should work. If you have a Volt Meter, check the voltage on the car’s charging tabs after checking the terminals, should give you anything from 0.7 to 1.4 volts depending on battery status.

I’ve had a few DOA bits, and all were easily fixed by cleaning the terminals.

Enjoy it for a while, then start modding ahahahahaha…

is the outer casing (the yoshi bit) as easy to remove on a nintendo bit char-g as it is for a regular one? i can’t see what i should unclip to get it off without snapping something. also, what should i clean the contacts with – a cotton bud tip and________ (turps? hot soapy water? chocolate milk!?)

And once the case is off, i presume the “interior battery terninals” are pretty easy to find – the things the battery touches when it is in, i take it?

sorry, but as you cant ell I’m a bit of a noob!

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@leonli17 225042 wrote:

Sounds like a dead battery in the car. Try the car when it’s ON the charging dock. If the car functions on it when u charging and not when it’s off, it would mean it’s dead battery. If it doesn’t function, then it’s possible that one of the wires fell off from the PCB. If this is the case, open the clear cover then flip the PCB, check if any wires that’s not connected then resolder whatever wire that’s detached. Hope this helps

I never thought of trying that, so i did – and it worked! Yes, so when connected to the dock it works, but not when it’s not. Which means the battery in the car is a dud. Is it is easy to replace (i presume so, with customisability of these things!) and if so, how do i do it? and what kind of battery do i need for it, and where can i get one and for how much?

thanks for all the help

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nevermind i figured it out it is the small resister between the fets. thanks for trying to help klims

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bumpizzle!

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thats what i need to know, is where the track goes. i tried to do a continuity test on my buddies xmod and couldnt find where it connects to. im just hoping someone knows and can point me in the right direction.

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all the other pins on the n chan side read as a ground except that one and all the pins on the p chan side read 5 volts whether i am pulling the trigger or not. and on my buddies xmod it has a ground on the pin that mine does not and his xmod works and mine does not so i assume this is the problem

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k here is a pic from the “spider” install guide. the circled pin no longer has a ground signal when it should and i think it is because i heated it to much and this is what i need to know if is possible to fix

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metering as in using a digital multi meter to test for voltage. the pcb is fine in that steering and lights still work its just that there isnt a ground signal at the fet pin when there should be. i actually double checked this on a buddies evo xmod. i wish i could link a picture of the pin i am talking about but i am at work and the computers here suck and i cant load pdfs to get to the pic 🙁

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Thank you so much for your help, Im just getting started in 1/18th scale from nitro 1/8th scale. Thanks again Jim.

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